Not that I know of.
Pretty straight forward. Remove one bolt from the pivot on the rear axle and the use wire or bungee to hold it in the highest position possible.
Two man bleeding, pressure bleeder, or vacuum pump bleed?
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Pretty straight forward. Remove one bolt from the pivot on the rear axle and the use wire or bungee to hold it in the highest position possible.
Two man bleeding, pressure bleeder, or vacuum pump bleed?
Well....poop.
LSVP bleeding: There's nothing magical, the bleeder is on top and it works like the one at the wheels.
- Thread starter
- #44
Thank you all for the help I really do appreciate it!!
I just bled the brakes again in the pattern that was described. I did get a little bit more air out, so I'm glad I did it. At this point, I'm out of brake fluid
. It has slightly improved, but I can still tell that's not the "problem". I'm guessing it probably has something mechanical in the calipers. The first time I bled the system, I did get a lot of trash out of the line and a couple of bleeders were clogged. I am guessing thats not a good sign.
I just bled the brakes again in the pattern that was described. I did get a little bit more air out, so I'm glad I did it. At this point, I'm out of brake fluid
. It has slightly improved, but I can still tell that's not the "problem". I'm guessing it probably has something mechanical in the calipers. The first time I bled the system, I did get a lot of trash out of the line and a couple of bleeders were clogged. I am guessing thats not a good sign.
Pls refresh my memory. Did you change the soft lines too?
- Thread starter
- #46
Not yet. I checked for ballooning and did. It see any.
If you got black crud out of the lines, I'll bet you have a caliper or three hanging up.
That's what was I thinking as well.
- Thread starter
- #50
Update:
Been waiting for some parts, but I took a little bit of time this afternoon and took apart one of the brake assemblies in the back.
On the right rear, one pad had normal wear the other one was completely gone, so I’m guessing that was a sign of a sticking caliper?
Plan going forward:
I was able to use one of the old brake pads from my 4runner to get me by a few days….
I’ve ordered a brand new set of brake pads and I’m going to get four remanufactured brake calibers and install all that hopefully this weekend or next week.
The ones on there look really beat up and rusted.
Been waiting for some parts, but I took a little bit of time this afternoon and took apart one of the brake assemblies in the back.
On the right rear, one pad had normal wear the other one was completely gone, so I’m guessing that was a sign of a sticking caliper?
Plan going forward:
I was able to use one of the old brake pads from my 4runner to get me by a few days….
I’ve ordered a brand new set of brake pads and I’m going to get four remanufactured brake calibers and install all that hopefully this weekend or next week.
The ones on there look really beat up and rusted.
I have fought rear brake calipers hanging up for years. I had been using the NAPA remans as well the Cardone from O'Reilly's.
I finally bought NEW calipers from Toyota and my rear brake dragging is gone. I get 2 mpg better now too.
- Thread starter
- #52
Unfortunately, I don’t have the budget for new calipers. I was either gonna get the ones from O’Reillys or the ones from advanced auto parts. Did you find one better than the other?
No, they both equally sucked.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Rebuild your calipers yourself. The kit is way cheaper than a new caliper. The procedure is in the brake section of the FSM.
You stated you "got most of the air out". You have to get all of the air out of the system, or you will not have brakes that work as designed. There is no "almost good enough".
FWIW, I have three 80s. All three have brakes that work in varying degrees. My DD works like it did when it was new. I have had it long enough to know. The other two have mushy brakes; not "Oh no, I can't stop" mushy, but not "put your face on the dash" new. I have replaced everything on one of them, except the ABS module and hardlines, and fittings on them, and I have never been able to bleed all the air out of the system, through several full system fluid flushes. There is a leak in there somewhere. Until I find it, and plug it, those brakes will never be as good as my DD.
- Thread starter
- #55
I looked into rebuilding them myself, but it needed all new bolts on it and pretty much every fitting on the calipers was totally rusted out when you add up the cost for each caliper. It was more than just buying the rebuilt ones.
As far as bleeding the system, I get what you’re saying totally; my point was you can tell you fix the problem before you’ve bled the system 100%. At least in my case.
If this doesn’t work, I’m gonna replace the soft lines and then the proportion valve.
IMO, the very first thing on my list would have been replacing the 7 28 year old soft brake lines.
Followed closely by rebuilding/replacing all 4 calipers.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
That was my plan, too. Absolutely the way to approach the job.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Front brake caliper, 2 each required:
Pistons (if required, usually not); 4 each caliper required:
Rear brake caliper, 2 each required:
Pistons (1 each caliper required, usually not):
and just for grins:
This fits the LSBPV also. New valves come with a screw installed.
No bolts, screws or nuts required. You are not supposed to take the front caliper halves apart when you rebuild them, and the rear is one piece. If you need sliding pins for the rear:
47715-22010 @ $13.59 each (2 required, per caliper)
The front caliper pins come in the brake disc set.
If you remove the front caliper using the caliper mounting bolts (you are not supposed to do it that way), you should replace them when you remove them (if you're like me and follow the FSM recommendations for non-reusable parts). If, however, you follow the FSM and take the reaction arm off the caliper body, you do not have to install new bolts. If you replace them once, and keep the underside reasonably clean, they should last your lifetime.
So, rebuilding just the two rear calipers, less pistons, = $27.64, plus tax and shipping.
No way this is a wash with the price of just one caliper. A little more for the front, but same cost comparison.
All prices are courtesy of Ourisman Toyota of Richmond, VA.
- Thread starter
- #59
Last edited:
lumbee1
Native American
I just read the entire thread.
I know you can't get rid of the ABS however I would recommend replacing the LSPV with a T fitting. They are cheap. This will eliminate a potential problem point. My LSPV was rotten on the inside and I was glad to get rid of it.
Like others I would have thought the booster would have been the fix.
However, you could test your caliper pistons by removing the caliper from the rotor, removing the pads, and pressing the brakes. A stuck caliper isn't going to move. I would recommend sticking a something in there to keep the piston from fully extending and falling out.
I didn't see it but do you have mushy brakes or just a very firm pedal with no stopping power? You could have a pinched hardline that isn't allowing fluid to the calipers. The front brakes have two separate lines that come off the T under the MC. The rear brakes run all the way to the rear axle before the line splits into left and right.
I know you can't get rid of the ABS however I would recommend replacing the LSPV with a T fitting. They are cheap. This will eliminate a potential problem point. My LSPV was rotten on the inside and I was glad to get rid of it.
Like others I would have thought the booster would have been the fix.
However, you could test your caliper pistons by removing the caliper from the rotor, removing the pads, and pressing the brakes. A stuck caliper isn't going to move. I would recommend sticking a something in there to keep the piston from fully extending and falling out.
I didn't see it but do you have mushy brakes or just a very firm pedal with no stopping power? You could have a pinched hardline that isn't allowing fluid to the calipers. The front brakes have two separate lines that come off the T under the MC. The rear brakes run all the way to the rear axle before the line splits into left and right.
