I've got a 1970 FJ40, and I need to replace my booster. The one replaced by my brother is just not quite right. I can't adjust the rod enough to get 100% of the help from booster. Where did you get your booster?
Brake Booster R&R
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
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Here are some pics of the Japanese booster.
Couple more of the master cylinder side. There is a cap covering the pregreased rod.
Thank you.
Just to clarify, the one I bought is for a 97 LX (80 series). Don't want to mis-represent.
alia176
SILVER Star
Just to clarify, the one I bought is for a 97 LX (80 series). Don't want to mis-represent.
May we have the link please?
Post #75 in this thread.
Brake Booster R&R
quick question - how important is it to replace the brake master cylinder when replacing the brake booster? should I do it while I'm in there or not bother? and thank you for the informative thread J FWIW I just replaced the booster. Brakes have been working great.
forum.ih8mud.com
I found an OEM (Japan) dual diaphragm for all drum brakes and ordered.
Dilspec
SILVER Star
New Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80 LX450 OEM Seiken Brake Booster Gaskets 44610-60792
New 80 series, FZJ80, FJ80, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, brake, brake booster, OEM, Seiken, japan, 44610-60792
This will fit the 91-92 80 Series Land Cruisers as well if you lengthen the vacuum hose going to the check valve (the check valve is at 10 o'clock where this is at 2 o'clock). Seiken is a OEM parts manufacturer. 44610-60792
City Racer LLC
www.cityracerllc.com
I replaced my booster yesterday. Low drama and only took about an hour. The hardest part was mating the master cylinder back to the booster, the lines were tougher to bend back than to bend away. I didn't have any issues clearing the manifold. Unfortunately I don't have an SST but everything feels fine.
I went ahead and ordered an "SST" to validate/adjust the master cylinder to booster pushrod clearance. Much cheaper then Mr. T's.
Amazon product ASIN B079QGXY55
Amazon product ASIN B079QGXY55
Where did you order the SST?
Amazon maybe?
Amazon. Link is in the post above.
Yep, thanks.
sorry for churn, image did not load on my 'puter for some reason.
sorry for churn, image did not load on my 'puter for some reason.
I may have the BB woes. We finally had our first frost late last week, Ambient temp at night has been in the 30's. Upon cold start the brake pedal remains hard with no power assist until the engine is brought off idle. It has done this three times. No issue is present once the engine is brought to operating temperature. Yesterday when I put it in Drive right after starting it the 80 lurched forward (at idle) and I had a hard pedal. Once back in Park and I brought the RPMs up the booster performed as designed the rest of the day (471 miles of driving).
Same thing this morning except I traveled 55 feet today.
Once I arrived at home last night I let the 80 cool off for 3 hours and pumped the pedal several times to evacuate any vacuum left, started the engine with my foot on the brake pedal and left it at idle. The booster had power assist.
I then left my foot on the brake pedal and shut the engine off. The pedal did not push back and it took three pumps of the pedal to dissipate the vacuum power assist. Each pedal depression did exhibit slightly ore pedal pressure.
Has anyone experienced this? I am thinking the check valve could be acting up but maybe that is my wallet thinking.
Same thing this morning except I traveled 55 feet today.
Once I arrived at home last night I let the 80 cool off for 3 hours and pumped the pedal several times to evacuate any vacuum left, started the engine with my foot on the brake pedal and left it at idle. The booster had power assist.
I then left my foot on the brake pedal and shut the engine off. The pedal did not push back and it took three pumps of the pedal to dissipate the vacuum power assist. Each pedal depression did exhibit slightly ore pedal pressure.
Has anyone experienced this? I am thinking the check valve could be acting up but maybe that is my wallet thinking.
I had the same issue this week. First stop coming out of the driveway on cold mornings the pedal was hard. I am thinking check valve is sticking. I ordered a new booster this morning. It's the original so it's probably time.
OEM check valve, grommet & vacuum hose ordered. Fingers crossed it isn't the booster.
Also ordered the Master Cylinder Gasket and Brake Booster Gasket today to have on hand. It is likely the diaphragm in the booster has cracks in it and is leaking at idle and low pressure.
Also ordered the Master Cylinder Gasket and Brake Booster Gasket today to have on hand. It is likely the diaphragm in the booster has cracks in it and is leaking at idle and low pressure.
Mine is the booster. Replaced the Check Valve and hose and had the same issue. I am going on 3 solid weeks of DD with no power assist on cold mornings and then normal operation once warmed up.
I had the chance to spend some quality time with Beulah and swap the booster out. Here are a few photos with comparisons to the 25 year old OEM and the new Seiken. The Three differences I noted are: 1) There is a line stamped in the front of the booster housing which is not present on the OEM unit. I cannot opine as to what the line is for. 2) The EPDM boot on the back of the booster has four ribs instead of the three on the OEM, 3) The studs on the back of the brake booster which go through the firewall are 6mm longer in length than those on the OEM (more on this in a minute).
Seiken on the Left and OEM on the Right.
Line stamped in Seiken unit not present on OEM unit.
Four ribs in EPDM boot on rear of Seiken unit and the mounting studs that are longer.
I found it was necessary to drag out the engine hoist and lift the motor on the Drivers side as @LandCruiserPhil has previously noted. It might have been possible with another set of hands to wrangle the OEM unit out from under the bonnet without lifting the motor but there was no way the Seiken unit with the longer studs could have been angled back into position without lifting the engine. With the 6mm longer mounting studs it was necessary to raise the engine hoist a few more strokes to get the Seiken unit into position. This may be the source of some confusion about whether it is required to lift the engine or not.
Photo from under the LH side motor mount. I DD Beulah and she shows it. She is just Filthy under there.
Just because there is always a WYT on an 80 I also swapped the accelerator cable. I had t in my parts box and with the booster out of the way it is easy! I wish I would have had a motor mount in my parts box. That would have been two WYTs!
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