Brake Booster R&R

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I agree having checked the book time prior, it was 3.5 hours and I took most of it but the quality of labor was second to none:D:flipoff2:

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OK, so I don't know enough about your personal history to know if you were a Toyota tech or you have an honorary uniform. People call me Toyota Matt, I don't have a jersey though :hillbilly:
 
Yes. That is why I was hoping I could shake a link out of someone that remembers who Bill or Bob was. :rolleyes:

I like the cut of this guy's job though. I might give him a whirl.

Ed Strain Inc.

Looks like a good way to go if you have the time. Please report back.

Interesting note, Bendix was metal stamped on the top of my reman'd booster and it was a perfect side by side match aside from the plastic valve. The warranty was void if the valve was ever removed:meh:
 
OK, so I don't know enough about your personal history to know if you were a Toyota tech or you have an honorary uniform. People call me Toyota Matt, I don't have a jersey though :hillbilly:

Im not any kind of tech just have greatest friends that like to entertain me with nice gifts.
 
Im not any kind of tech just have greatest friends that like to entertain me with nice gifts.
I would sport one of those. I should drop a few hints around my friends...

I bet they just continue to milk me for auto maintenance advice and access to tools though. I do trade good legal representation with a good friend for 4Runner work, which is nicer than a free shirt ;)
 
Looks like a good way to go if you have the time. Please report back.

Interesting note, Bendix was metal stamped on the top of my reman'd booster and it was a perfect side by side match aside from the plastic valve. The warranty was void if the valve was ever removed:meh:

Honestly, it's mostly a money priority issue at this point. The booster is just sitting in the box the other one came in. At some point I will have a lull in my spending needs and shipping that off for a $200 rebuild will happen but at this point I have other stuff that I would rather blow money on that might give me a more immediate reward as a consumer.

I had that warning about the valve. I left the one they sent it with but I have the old one and I wouldn't hesitate to toss it back in once the year is up on the part.
 
Honestly, it's mostly a money priority issue at this point. The booster is just sitting in the box the other one came in. At some point I will have a lull in my spending needs and shipping that off for a $200 rebuild will happen but at this point I have other stuff that I would rather blow money on that might give me a more immediate reward as a consumer.

I had that warning about the valve. I left the one they sent it with but I have the old one and I wouldn't hesitate to toss it back in once the year is up on the part.

Did you see the A1Cardone core return offer of $45 with free shipping?
 
Did you see the A1Cardone core return offer of $45 with free shipping?
I did, but I thought the core was worth more to me. $45 is chicken sh!t compared to $550. Even if I do end up sending it in for a rebuild, I will still be ahead by a factor of two.

I have learned not to give away Toyota parts. I keep stuff even when it probably doesn't make sense unless it's so far gone that it has no value. I kept my original y pipe for my exhaust, even though I bought a new one from Toyota to replace it.
 
I did, but I thought the core was worth more to me. $45 is chicken sh!t compared to $550. Even if I do end up sending it in for a rebuild, I will still be ahead by a factor of two.

I have learned not to give away Toyota parts. I keep stuff even when it probably doesn't make sense unless it's so far gone that it has no value. I kept my original y pipe for my exhaust, even though I bought a new one from Toyota to replace it.

You are welcome to mine for the core cost if you like.

Over the years I have saved tons of parts and recently I loaded everything on a trailer to take to the next guys yard to store it. lol
 
I replaced my BB at about 215k miles. It gave only a bit of notice by presenting a rock hard pedal and drastically increased force. Its a good thing i leave plenty of braking room, and i even drove it 20mi on Squaw Peak Pkwy to get it down to the dealer. About $800 later and I know its good for another 200k miles. I kept the old one out of posterity...

I'm amazed you drove it out without power brakes, LCP. It would have killed any lesser man!
 
Mostly body stuff bumper boards, racks, tire carried sway bars....
Do you have rear bumper side trim pieces? I don't need the flaps, mine are good. I have a feeling I might wreck my side pieces though if I try to remove them, which I would like to do at some point so that I can get in there and do some rust removal work.
 
I just did mine, same thing hard pedal,not stopping like it should. I did not have to jack up the motor and it took me 45 minutes, the Cummins gives you more room, but I still have a stiff pedal, I get plenty of vacuum, but it is just not as good as it used to be, I am going to bleed my brakes and see
 
I would of definitely preferred it falling out but Im pretty comfortable having done 98.6% (I dont have an alignment rack at my shop) of all my own work for the last 45 years and on MY 80 it was not coming out without moving something.

If nothing else the tip might help the next guy with the same issue as mine.

It may not be entirely the right way but with a little pry bar work you can slip the BB past the intake manifold without damaging anything.

I think I'm going to start rebuilding brake boosters
I looked into this myself, for myself and one of the biggest issues is trying to find a rebuild kit. And until I have more time my bad OEM one is gonna stay together before I try and hunt down the individual pieces.
 
Forgot to post but completed the brake booster swap on Wednesday with the A1 Cardone booster from amazon. No issues so far and loving not having to stand on the brakes. I'll follow up if I see any issues but so far satisfied with the part and glad I didn't have to fork over $500.

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I purchased my 80 series A1-Cardone booster a year ago from Autozone ($245 plus core) because it came with a lifetime warranty. Repainted the silver/gray color black too. So far, the brakes work excellent. It also came with a check valve with two extra ports out of the sides. Don't know what those ports are used for in other applications. I noticed the rubber caps are cracked. Not sure if they are just dust caps or if they are required to seal.

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Just returned from 1500 miles of testing from Scottsdale to Moab area. Im 100% happy with the feel and performance. Brakes still lock up quick and easy and good pedal modulation on vertical drops same as with the OEM Brake Booster. The only negative is it does not come painted or powder coated.
 
quick question - how important is it to replace the brake master cylinder when replacing the brake booster? should I do it while I'm in there or not bother?

and thank you for the informative thread

J
 
quick question - how important is it to replace the brake master cylinder when replacing the brake booster? should I do it while I'm in there or not bother?

and thank you for the informative thread

J
I replaced mine when I did the booster, along with all of the other braking components except the rear rotors and parking brake stuff. I also deleted the LSPV and the ABS at that time.
 

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