Brake Booster R&R (1 Viewer)

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don't get the auto zone brake booster it only last me about 9month come with a lifetime warranty but it still suck to keep take it off and install it if i have to do it over again i prefer oem last 20years before u have to get ur hand dirty again
 
quick question - how important is it to replace the brake master cylinder when replacing the brake booster? should I do it while I'm in there or not bother?

and thank you for the informative thread

J

I did not replace mine mainly because it did not show any signs of leaking and I replace/flush my brake fluid at least once a year keeping it fresh & clean.
 
I purchased my 80 series A1-Cardone booster a year ago from Autozone ($245 plus core) because it came with a lifetime warranty. Repainted the silver/gray color black too. So far, the brakes work excellent. It also came with a check valve with two extra ports out of the sides. Don't know what those ports are used for in other applications. I noticed the rubber caps are cracked. Not sure if they are just dust caps or if they are required to seal.

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I have a 1970 FJ40 with dual master cylinder. The booster was replaced a few years ago. The brakes are poor at best. I've done all the things like pad adjustments, bleeding, etc. without any improvement. I see in the FSM a Special Service Tool to make sure the push rod to booster piston is aligned correctly. I do not think that was ever done and could be the issue. HOW can I do some checks to determine if an alignment between booster and master or something else?
 
I have a 1970 FJ40 with dual master cylinder. The booster was replaced a few years ago. The brakes are poor at best. I've done all the things like pad adjustments, bleeding, etc. without any improvement. I see in the FSM a Special Service Tool to make sure the push rod to booster piston is aligned correctly. I do not think that was ever done and could be the issue. HOW can I do some checks to determine if an alignment between booster and master or something else?

On the 80 series I dont see any way it can be misaligned mainly because there is nothing that can be aligned or adjusted when installed.
 
I believe he is talking about the push-rod adjustment on the MC side of the booster.

@Dennis 1970 40 Before springing for the SST, take a look at the following PDF. I have not tried it but perhaps it'll be of some help to you.
http://www.jegs.com/installationinstructions/500/555/555-631010-116.pdf

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I agree having checked the book time prior, it was 3.5 hours and I took most of it but the quality of labor was second to none:D:flipoff2:

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Took me <1 hr to remove and replace mine 14 months ago. Now I have to do it again because it has already failed! Mines from O'reilly and is Brake Best brand.
 
Took me <1 hr to remove and replace mine 14 months ago. Now I have to do it again because it has

already failed! Mines from O'reilly and is Brake Best brand.


Good thing you are fast at it
 
Tested booster/brakes, locked up all 4 at speed without issue. Very happy with A1-Cardone booster.
I just did mine, same thing hard pedal,not stopping like it should. I did not have to jack up the motor and it took me 45 minutes, the Cummins gives you more room, but I still have a stiff pedal, I get plenty of vacuum, but it is just not as good as it used to be, I am going to bleed my brakes and see
Did either of you adjust the rod that goes into the master cylinder? I adjusted the pedal rod, and it seems perfect, but there's no way I could lock them up. They work but nowhere near as good. I tried measuring the MC rod but the rod in the one I returned easily slid in and out, the new one didn't, so I didn't know if I should've measured with it all the way in or out. My brakes suck now. Help!
 
Did either of you adjust the rod that goes into the master cylinder? I adjusted the pedal rod, and it seems perfect, but there's no way I could lock them up. They work but nowhere near as good. I tried measuring the MC rod but the rod in the one I returned easily slid in and out, the new one didn't, so I didn't know if I should've measured with it all the way in or out. My brakes suck now. Help!

I did not adjust it, make sure you bleed your brakes and you do not have a vacuum leek
 
Did either of you adjust the rod that goes into the master cylinder? I adjusted the pedal rod, and it seems perfect, but there's no way I could lock them up. They work but nowhere near as good. I tried measuring the MC rod but the rod in the one I returned easily slid in and out, the new one didn't, so I didn't know if I should've measured with it all the way in or out. My brakes suck now. Help!

After replacing the booster I see no difference in braking performance prior to my booster going out. Brakes locked up prior no problem before. No adjustment booster to master on a A1-Cardone, set the booster to brake pedal exactly the same. Did not disconnect any brake lines at all.

Do you possible have a kinked brake line?
 
After replacing the booster I see no difference in braking performance prior to my booster going out. Brakes locked up prior no problem before. No adjustment booster to master on a A1-Cardone, set the booster to brake pedal exactly the same. Did not disconnect any brake lines at all.

Do you possible have a kinked brake line?
No kink. I was very gentle with the lines as I moved the MC forward out of the way.
I did not adjust it, make sure you bleed your brakes and you do not have a vacuum leek
I bled and flush the whole system 14 months ago. Brakes worked great before the booster failed. I didn't undo any lines and there's no way I got air in the system. I also checked for leaks and have none.
Thanks.
 
This morning I removed the MC and adjusted the push rod out about 1mm, till it was barely touching the MC piston. The brakes are better initially into a hard start but are the same after that. I went 40MPH and 1 footed mashed them. No way would they lock up, or activate the ABS, on concrete. I did a leak down test on the booster and it passed. I'm at a loss. Honestly, I've never tried to lock them up so maybe this is as good as it gets. I have original calipers and brake lines. Maybe their bulging when I hit the brakes hard, idk. I do know the outside rubber on several of them is cracked pretty bad. This fall I guess I'll get rebuilt calipers from Napa and new soft lines. Hopefully that'll help. Thanks.
 
I will add to this by listing the part numbers for the two gaskets you will need if you choose to purchase them.

Booster Gasket 44785-35020
Master Cylinder Gasket 47275-24010

They were about $2 each at the dealer or if you have time you can get them for about $1 ea at an online dealer, but then you pay shipping. Your call. The good part about going down to the dealer and getting these was running across this gem in the showroom.

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Just experienced this phenomenon in Kingman, luckily just pulled in for gas. The 200 miles home weren't bad. Just lots of distance and downshifting. Going to look at the $295 Japanese booster.
 
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Just experienced this phenomenon in Kingman, luckily just pulled in for gas. The 200 miles home weren't bad. Just lots of distance and downshifting. Going to look at the $295 Japanese booster.
Mine has been hissing, its aftermarket, i think i am going the sane route you are.
 
Mine has been hissing, its aftermarket, i think i am going the sane route you are.
I just ordered it with FedEx delivery for $313.93. Hope it gets here soon, I have a 6000lb paperweight in the driveway until it gets here.
 
I just ordered it with FedEx delivery for $313.93. Hope it gets here soon, I have a 6000lb paperweight in the driveway until it gets here.

Will y’all post about how that booster works out for you?

I’m at 198k and thinking to replace mine as preventative maintenance.

Had one fail once on an F350 while towing about 12,000 pounds of calfs. Makes a good story... NOW!
 
Will y’all post about how that booster works out for you?

I’m at 198k and thinking to replace mine as preventative maintenance.

Had one fail once on an F350 while towing about 12,000 pounds of calfs. Makes a good story... NOW!
Sure thing. I just received notice that it shipped! That was quick.
 
Lost one myself with no warning. Zero stop ability. Bought a used one from a trusted source, worked for a year than poof. But not total failure. Im still driving it around. Hissing at me and laughing at me while I put my back against the seat. IIRC there is a joint, I think in Texas, that has a bunch of OEM ones for $300. Like they bought a bunch of stock from someone going out of business. Thats what I have been meaning to do but just havent made the transaction. Im sure someone knows who it is readily. Havent looked into it in quite awhile.
 

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