Bought my first - a '98 LX470

[Jonathan Case]

Hi guys - I'm new to the world of LCs/LXs. First of all, thanks for being such a resource: I've found a lot of good information here that's made me informed enough to be dangerous, if not yet competent. There's a lot to read and understand.

I just purchased a '98 LX470 with 120k original miles. Got a pretty good deal, I think, in spite of a ridiculous buying experience with a local Portland, OR dealer (they posted the car at $10.5k, then tried to get out of the deal with me/raise the price when they got other interest). Anyway, after a lot of drama I got it for the original price. I have zilch mechanical experience, so I plan to read these forums a lot and rely on my trusted Toyota/Lexus mechanic, at least until I get up to speed. I'm hopeful about my future owning/maintaining an 18 yr old rig, but I also don't know what I don't know.

My pre-sale inspection came back reasonably clean. The LX needs front CV boots (a shop near the dealer recommended just replacing both front axles for $750 - seems cheap?), and there may be a couple quirks with the AHC system, though I'm still figuring out the parameters of where/when that system works. The car has no problems going into all height modes while parked, and stays in HI til I get to 20MPH, which seems correct from what I read. It won't stay in LO once the car moves. Other than that, it's in good shape - no rust, clean, and the timing belt work was done early (sticker says 58k, so I'm guessing I'll be doing that again at 150k?).

A little more background on me and my use-case: I'm a cartoonist/author by day, and I want to head south this fall on a family adventure/book research trip. I bought the LX to tow an R-Pod (2800lbs dry) that came with a WDH and sway bars. My hope is to keep the AHC system alive to facilitate helping that trailer over a couple humps in my driveway. I haven't set up a hitch yet on the LX (towed the trailer home with a borrowed truck) so I don't yet know how it will behave or if that getting-over-a-hump is an appropriate use of AHC.

Anyway, I have a lot to read! Thanks again for being here. If in fact you'll have a testosterone-challenged cartoonist on an off-road forum, I look forward to being a part of the community and learning as much as I can.

A tiny photo - better ones to come:

 

[camino70]

Welcome, nice looking truck!

I'd read some more and get another opinion about the CVs first.

Search helper or air bags if your concerned about staining the ahc.

 

[Jonathan Case]

Thanks! I'll definitely get a second opinion on the CVs.

 

[bctlex]

Welcome to where all of the cool kids hang out! 98 MY is the best

 

[Traskew3]

Welcome!! Looks just like Mine

 

[flintknapper]

Certainly low mileage for a '98, good score. IF the CV boots have been torn/split for very long, then I agree with the 'shops' position to 'replace' them rather than re-boot. Chances are good the lubricating grease has been gone long enough to let appreciable wear occur to the joints. The labor cost to replace a CV axle should be the same as to reboot them. So only the cost of the parts increases that bill. But you'll have new CV axles and not need to worry about them for a long time.

The AHC despite the low mileage, might still need some attention. Your timing belt also needs to be looked at (it can be inspected by removing one of the plastic covers) not because of mileage, but because of 'age'. It is a rubber part...and as such, has a 'life' even if you never used it. It will probably last until the next scheduled maintenance service, but its easy to check it now, to see if its cracked.

Check your heater hose Tee's at the rear of the engine next to the firewall. These are known to become brittle (one of them) and can easily leave you on the side of the road. Aside from that, baseline all your fluids, drive it and see what it needs.

Looks pretty clean to me.

 

[Jonathan Case]

Certainly low mileage for a '98, good score. IF the CV boots have been torn/split for very long, then I agree with the 'shops' position to 'replace' them rather than re-boot. Chances are good the lubricating grease has been gone long enough to let appreciable wear occur to the joints. The labor cost to replace a CV axle should be the same as to reboot them. So only the cost of the parts increases that bill. But you'll have new CV axles and not need to worry about them for a long time.

The AHC despite the low mileage, might still need some attention. Your timing belt also needs to be looked at (it can be inspected by removing one of the plastic covers) not because of mileage, but because of 'age'. It is a rubber part...and as such, has a 'life' even if you never used it. It will probably last until the next scheduled maintenance service, but its easy to check it now, to see if its cracked.

Check your heater hose Tee's at the rear of the engine next to the firewall. These are known to become brittle (one of them) and can easily leave you on the side of the road. Aside from that, baseline all your fluids, drive it and see what it needs.

Looks pretty clean to me.

Thanks for that advice! Based on what you're saying, as well as what the shop showed me, they would need replacing because the front boots were not only split - the rubber gaskets were just plain gone, leaving the greasy joints exposed.

 

[Jonathan Case]

Oh - anybody have an idea of what the OEM axles should cost? $750 for the whole job including labor seems too good to be true, but I don't know. When I asked the shop if they used genuine Lexus parts, their answer was, "Yes, but the manufacturers source components from various places" which kind of seems like a non-answer.

 

[Jonathan Case]

It was too good to be true! Using reconditioned parts was going to cost $200 more. Trying my typical mechanic now to see what he says.

 

[Jonathan Case]

And, closing a loop on the AHC... I somehow missed in the manual that it's designed to not drive in LO, so it's working as it should. My mechanic's going to rebuild the boots, so I get to keep the original axles.

 

[benc]

Welcome!
Oem axels are going to cost around $450 each and I would replace the drive flanges at the same time. My total for axels seals and flanges from Toyota was around $1100 just for parts and that was with a 20% discount.

What is it that makes you think the axels need replaced?

 

[Jonathan Case]

Welcome!
Oem axels are going to cost around $450 each and I would replace the drive flanges at the same time. My total for axels seals and flanges from Toyota was around $1100 just for parts and that was with a 20% discount.

What is it that makes you think the axels need replaced?

The pre-sale mechanic recommended replacement, thinking the cost would be the same vs. rebuilding the cracked/leaking inner CV boots. My regular mechanic has found that the axels are in fine shape, though. They're going to clean them up and put new inner+outer boots on. Cost to me is $1050.

 

[Jonathan Case]

Uhg... The story continues.

My mechanic IS going to have to replace the axles, because where they connect with the differential, they're 'washboard', instead of smooth. $2200 for parts and labor. The Lexus dealer could do it for $1950 ($550 for the axels $400 labor per side), but either way, I'm now out $2k vs. the original expectation of $750. At least the AHC works fine.

I need to make friends with local Portland LC owners who can train me up.

 

[DirtDawg]

What do you mean by the CVs are 'washboarded' where they connect to the differential? I have never heard of this happening on a cruiser/Toyota and unless the cruiser is experiencing weird front end symptoms I would NOT replace the axles. Only reason to replace are if your getting vibrations from them, or you hear clicking. You probably just need a reboot kit and your mechanic sounds like he just wants to take the easy and more lucrative route and just swap the CVs. Toyota CVs are well built compared to others.

Sounds like he's taking you for a ride

Edit: Just reread that you stated that the boots were almost gone. If that's the case maybe they overheated and warped? All weird signs for only 120k. Is the vehicle with you so you can look at it yourself? Maybe post some pics?

 

[LX470Mack]

Welcome! Nice looking rig.

I remember picking up the first one in Australia in 1998 with my father for one of his good friends. The dream became a reality for me 18 years later when I finally got my own. I'd recommend keeping a slush fund for AHC replacement. The system works well but it is now headed towards 20 years old on 98 models.

 

[Jonathan Case]

What do you mean by the CVs are 'washboarded' where they connect to the differential? I have never heard of this happening on a cruiser/Toyota and unless the cruiser is experiencing weird front end symptoms I would NOT replace the axles. Only reason to replace are if your getting vibrations from them, or you hear clicking. You probably just need a reboot kit and your mechanic sounds like he just wants to take the easy and more lucrative route and just swap the CVs. Toyota CVs are well built compared to others.

Sounds like he's taking you for a ride

Edit: Just reread that you stated that the boots were almost gone. If that's the case maybe they overheated and warped? All weird signs for only 120k. Is the vehicle with you so you can look at it yourself? Maybe post some pics?

My mechanic offered to let me come and see what's what, so I'll get some pics tomorrow for curiosity's sake, if nothing else. I've gone ahead with the job at this point because his original goal WAS to reboot them, and I believe he's honest (been working with him 10 yrs)... that, in combination with the pre-sale inspector recommending the axles' replacement, leads me to believe it does in fact need to be done.

 

[Jonathan Case]

Welcome! Nice looking rig.

I remember picking up the first one in Australia in 1998 with my father for one of his good friends. The dream became a reality for me 18 years later when I finally got my own. I'd recommend keeping a slush fund for AHC replacement. The system works well but it is now headed towards 20 years old on 98 models.

Good thought there, yeah. I'll have to see how it goes there, weighing the AHC usefulness vs. a different suspension entirely.

 

[Jonathan Case]

Here's a pic of my inner axle where it connects to the differential. The washboarding my mechanic's talking about is noted in the photo. Where it should be smooth, there's a shallow ring worn into the metal. I'm hoping to keep these original axles for a bit so that I can learn more about how they work/go together. If someone who knows more about these axles than I feels they can make use of them, you're welcome to have them. Just need to see if keeping them is possible (they may be going back to Toyota to get remanufactured, in which case keeping them would incur additional cost).

 

[DirtDawg]

Doesnt look bad to me at all. I'd see if you could keep them and turn them into spares or reboot and sell them to a mud member.

 

[Jonathan Case]

Doesnt look bad to me at all. I'd see if you could keep them and turn them into spares or reboot and sell them to a mud member.

Right? In the zombie apocalypse, I see no reason these axles couldn't serve.