NLXTACY
Wits' End
No worries
Bolt on turbo kit (22 Viewers)
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
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NLXTACY
Wits' End
Turbo testing continues*
* probably not an 80
* probably not an 80
Ford GT?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Some notes about a quick run this morning...
* 25 miles put on so far
* two WOT runs and the system hits just shy of 6psi
* no boost controller and blue wastegate spring
* climbed a decent hill going 70mph and it stayed at about 3psi the whole way up the hill and never downshifted
* when you get on the boost there is so much air being moved and pushed out the exhaust. You can definitely hear the air flying through the muffler and tailpipe.
* adjustments made to the intake piping and it is a little farther from the turbo now and isn't nearly as warm
* The front intake portion no longer touches the hood insulation
* The check engine light is still off
* Everything is working as it should so far
* 25 miles put on so far
* two WOT runs and the system hits just shy of 6psi
* no boost controller and blue wastegate spring
* climbed a decent hill going 70mph and it stayed at about 3psi the whole way up the hill and never downshifted
* when you get on the boost there is so much air being moved and pushed out the exhaust. You can definitely hear the air flying through the muffler and tailpipe.
* adjustments made to the intake piping and it is a little farther from the turbo now and isn't nearly as warm
* The front intake portion no longer touches the hood insulation
* The check engine light is still off
* Everything is working as it should so far
jjdeneen918
SILVER Star
What does your butt-dynometer estimate? 
NLXTACY
Wits' End
If you look at where the LCs have factory snorkel can be had as an option they are basically Middle East and Australia. However the Chinese snorkle does offer better rollover protection, thoroughly tested on MUD!
Now this is my take only!
Plastic: For manufactures it is much cheaper to make things in plastic which comes with higher up front cost (mold) and production line/process in the millions thanks to the lower per unit cost.
Aluminum: no upfront cost, just take the design to a machine shop but much higher per unit cost. Small shops can only afford to make aluminum units even though per unit cost is high because they don’t have the volume nor the capital use make things out of plastic.
Which is better? Both? Aluminum is stronger but transfers more heat or plastic insolates a little better but breaks overtime. I have the aluminum one because that’s all thats available! LOL
If someone wants a perfectly functioning OEM unit then I have one at half the price of a new one.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Forgot to add but this is all at 7000' and higher.
HDJdreams
SILVER Star
That’s the ballpark where I would really NEED it!
NLXTACY
Wits' End
50 miles in. Nothing smoking, nothing on fire, nothing leaking (except for everything else on the truck 
)
No CEL after 50 miles and 8 cycles!!
)No CEL after 50 miles and 8 cycles!!
- Thread starter
- #3,072
Put the red and green spring in!!! lol
50 miles in. Nothing smoking, nothing on fire, nothing leaking (except for everything else on the truck
No CEL after 50 miles and 8 cycles!!
NLXTACY
Wits' End
When I first read your performance, I thought big deal at lower elevation, then when you said 7000' that was more interesting.
Little off subject, but I had never driven our/an 80 at lower elevations. Lowest has been Denver, Grand Junction All my experience has been around home at 6000+. That changed however, just went down to Vegas from NW Colorado, back around via Hoover Dam, I40 and Grand Canyon and back up through Moab. 80 was pretty peppy on the interstate at lower elevations, ran about 84MPH most the way down 70 and 15. Had good passing power and such, shifted down, revved up above 3800 it hauled ass. Cruising seemed to want to stay in OD more at higher RPM of 80+MPH. Got back up into Colorado, cruising at 60-65 on the two lane roads and it starts hunting and bouncing back and forth between 3rd and OD with the slightest bit of throttle manipulation. Tolerable most the time, but very annoying when pulling our travel trailer. When you just need the extra little bump of speed or gas for the wind it shifts down, then, up, then down. Seemed the higher speeds kept it in a better power band.
Can't say I have the fun money for this kit or the stomach for the premium fuel, but it sure would be nice in the mountains, especially with the camper.
Little off subject, but I had never driven our/an 80 at lower elevations. Lowest has been Denver, Grand Junction All my experience has been around home at 6000+. That changed however, just went down to Vegas from NW Colorado, back around via Hoover Dam, I40 and Grand Canyon and back up through Moab. 80 was pretty peppy on the interstate at lower elevations, ran about 84MPH most the way down 70 and 15. Had good passing power and such, shifted down, revved up above 3800 it hauled ass. Cruising seemed to want to stay in OD more at higher RPM of 80+MPH. Got back up into Colorado, cruising at 60-65 on the two lane roads and it starts hunting and bouncing back and forth between 3rd and OD with the slightest bit of throttle manipulation. Tolerable most the time, but very annoying when pulling our travel trailer. When you just need the extra little bump of speed or gas for the wind it shifts down, then, up, then down. Seemed the higher speeds kept it in a better power band.
Can't say I have the fun money for this kit or the stomach for the premium fuel, but it sure would be nice in the mountains, especially with the camper.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Bingo
I knew your were cheating!!50 miles in. Nothing smoking, nothing on fire, nothing leaking (except for everything else on the truck
No CEL after 50 miles and 8 cyclinders!!
NLXTACY
Wits' End
jjdeneen918
SILVER Star
Question.
Air/oil separator, would you recommend for this setup?
GrimmSpeed sells a nifty one that screws into the oil cap. Self drains back into engine. Designed for Subaru WRX, not sure if caps are interchangeable.
Or a typical baffled oil catch can?
Air/oil separator, would you recommend for this setup?
GrimmSpeed sells a nifty one that screws into the oil cap. Self drains back into engine. Designed for Subaru WRX, not sure if caps are interchangeable.
Or a typical baffled oil catch can?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I'm assuming you mean this one:
GrimmSpeed Air/Oil Separator - Red - 2002-07 Subaru WRX, 2004-21 Subar
MOST COMPLETE AND COMPACT AIR/OIL SEPARATOR ON THE MARKET! An Air/Oil Separator has one job, remove the oil from the engine ventilation system so the oil does not get sent through the intake system. The GrimmSpeed Air/Oil Separator for turbocharged Subaru models has a unique design that allows...
www.grimmspeed.com
And yes actually, I do recommend one. It just keeps oil misting away from the compressor of the turbo and eventually the throttle body. That being said, it doesn't hurt anything to NOT have a catch-can.
jjdeneen918
SILVER Star
Yup. That’s it!
According to Amazon, when I select a Subaru oil cap it says it doesn’t fit the ‘96 Landcruiser.
Someone with a 3D printer needs to make an adapter. Anyone with a 3D printer?
According to Amazon, when I select a Subaru oil cap it says it doesn’t fit the ‘96 Landcruiser.
Someone with a 3D printer needs to make an adapter. Anyone with a 3D printer?
