Bolt on turbo kit (12 Viewers)

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Jason Andrews said:
Intercooling doesn't make you be able to add more boost my itself, it just makes the boost you are making more efficient.
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As far I know once heat soaked, boost is almost useless and more boost equals more heat. Without intercooler the intake air will be so hot there will be all sorts of problems besides just boost efficiency. I could be wrong.
 
well i installed a chinese ct26 A+ copy and is working fine , done about 400km since the upgrade , so far so good , i have a 1hz enigne , EGT varys between 100-350c , will push her slightly more to see till what it goes to .

also installed a greedy after market catch can , the default boost on the turbo is 0.65 bar which they say is safe for the 1hz
 
You are comparing apples to oranges. That is a diesel engine, this is about the 1FZ-FE gasoline engine. A CT26 would be way too small for the 1FZFE.

Muhammad said:
well i installed a chinese ct26 A+ copy and is working fine , done about 400km since the upgrade , so far so good , i have a 1hz enigne , EGT varys between 100-350c , will push her slightly more to see till what it goes to .

also installed a greedy after market catch can , the default boost on the turbo is 0.65 bar which they say is safe for the 1hz
Click to expand...
 
Damn I need to take control of my OCD. I’ve been on a quest for an OEM hose clamp that will work in the 6mm silicone vacuum hose. Finally have them coming in

1905445
 
NLXTACY said:
This is NOT a photo of our engines/turbo/setup. BUT, it does show what I am considering doing which I think will help a larger group of you instead of being shoe-horned into a single solution. If you look at this downpipe set up, its very similar to what I thinking about doing. There is the V-band at the turbo which goes to a flex joint and another V-band. Then off the wastegate there is another, smaller, flex joint. The flex joints mean there is some wiggle room between trying to keep all of the geometry in line which would be very tough. The thinking now, using this image as reference, to move the v-band to after the wastegate junction. I will keep all reducers to a minimum before this point.

But my reasoning to adding another v-band after that junction is so that the mating pipe could be 2.5" to go to stock setups, or for those that want to goose it, can just bolt up a 3" exhaust to the v-band. This way I don't have to dick around with trying to make more than one solution to make people happy.

Thoughts before I commit?

View attachment 1903261
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Hey Joey,

Different engine, but FWIW, I fitted a turbo and a 4" downpipe reducing to 3" exhaust on my hzj105.
I fitted a long braided flex after the downpipe. Down pipe is hard mounted to the bell housing and t-case with the flex before exhaust support transitions to the frame.

I have 3/8 clearance between exhaust and frame in several places with no vibration or contact with the frame.
Diesel engines typically give a heavy shudder when shut down. Even with a shudder, I have no contact with the frame.

I did virtually the exact same setup on my hdj81 with good results.

Don't skimp on a flex joint IMO, longer is better, and the flex wants to be where the exhaust mind to from rigid mount to engine, to flexible mount to the frame

IMG_20170430_124112.jpg
 
cary said:
Yikes. Out of curiosity, what have you done to keep the tranny intact?
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I’ve rebuilt it twice so far. Eventually I’ll go with a manual but for now I’ll just keep fixing the auto lol, to be fair it’s been pretty good since the 2nd rebuild.
 
Wait is this the first time you have ever said "No"??

NLXTACY said:
No, that is very specific to the end user. But I will be offering the ports to add the gauge of your choice.
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As she should. Lol. You can't provide a $10k kit for $5k and expect the CFO to be happy. lol.

NLXTACY said:
My CFO has been complaining. :(
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Give CFO a raise ? That might help.....
 
Jason Andrews said:
Yea, but my engines intake is on the driver side so I doubt I would route it the same with the 1FZ. Having dual batteries makes it more challenging. My plumbing is ugly after last summer I finally wrapped most all of it in heat tape to delay/prevent the heat soak.
Pass wheel well, driver wheel well, bay layout:
View attachment 1905176
View attachment 1905177
View attachment 1905178

I used all 3" piping and 3" inlet/outlet IC which is overkill for this kit. Using 2.25" would make the job easier and still be plenty big and not restrict air flow. I can see using a FMIC setup like this where the in/outlet is kept on the passenger side.
View attachment 1905179


Can't tell if you're joking or serious? An IC would change the charged air density which would allow your turbo to stuff "more air" in the "same amount of boost." So you can add more fuel? Intercooling doesn't make you be able to add more boost my itself, it just makes the boost you are making more efficient.
Click to expand...

I knew there was a higher power behind my battery relocation🙏 Everything is looking solid, truly incredible to see that this will come to fruition.

1908249


1908250
 
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