?Even the new Grenadier has a BMW engine. How much plastic is on that.
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?Even the new Grenadier has a BMW engine. How much plastic is on that.
Is Fluid Film the one that has a gnarly smell? Feel like I've read somewhere on mud about one of the rust inhibitors having a really bad smell that just seems to never go away.Right you'd have to chip off the paint from the rust which I would recommend doing, except for maybe the roof gutters because that will let in more rain. Fluid Film is go
Thanks. What about using fluid film down inside the doors?Yes - Fluid Film contains lanolin, so it smells a bit like wet sheep. I would refrain from using inside the rear quarter panels (for instance) which are connected to the cargo area. It is a fine anti-rust product, however.
The key thing is to get it covered or inside so that condensate (every night) and rain do not continue to drench those areas. The roof gutter rust is the most evil, since it is among the most difficult areas to repair. You must peel back that paint (pry it off with a pocketknife) and see what's going on there.
There are ton of trucks on Mud and threads that talk about rust - read up!
LOL wrong post. Wonder how that happened.
Do it! While you are at it, peel back the carpet in the driver side door well. Rust below the kick panel is common. Also between the backseat body mounts and rear fender well. Check passenger side too. If those are good you are lucky.Thanks. What about using fluid film down inside the doors?
In doors, once all the paint/bodywork is done, I usually remove the door panels, clean out the dirt and window channel fuzz inside the doors, and use a pump oil can and squirt some motor oil or gear oil in the doors and then close the doors on some newspaper, so that the oil doesn't drip down the rockers. I want a fluid oil that will soak into the pinch seam at the bottom of the door. You can also buy aerosol Lithium white grease at Walmart or any parts store, and spray that in. It's liquid and then sets up into a sticky grease.Thanks. What about using fluid film down inside the doors?
Will adding a rust inhibitor inside the doors before paint and bodywork is done help or hurt?In doors, once all the paint/bodywork is done, I usually remove the door panels, clean out the dirt and window channel fuzz inside the doors, and use a pump oil can and squirt some motor oil or gear oil in the doors and then close the doors on some newspaper, so that the oil doesn't drip down the rockers. I want a fluid oil that will soak into the pinch seam at the bottom of the door. You can also buy aerosol Lithium white grease at Walmart or any parts store, and spray that in. It's liquid and then sets up into a sticky grease.
I would not use Fluid Film in the doors simply because on a hot day, the smells will drift through the plastic and door panel and get into the interior. Fluid Film is great but any grease/oil petroleum product (preferably not horribly odorous) will stop rust. I have also made homemade rustproofing by mixing paraffin and ATF, heating it, and pouring/painting it on rusty surfaces.
Depends how long. Fluid film stinks worse when weldingWill adding a rust inhibitor inside the doors before paint and bodywork is done help or hurt?
Fluid film is awesome and I put it inside of doors and everywhere else. It creeps and spreads out and covers everything. It will do a wonderful job keeping existing rust from getting worse, but I might worry about issues painting later unless you did a very thorough cleaning. The smell does dissipate but I don't find it unpleasant to begin with. Probably because I hate rust so much. There is also woolwax which is a little thicker and supposed to not smell as much but seems about the same to me.Will adding a rust inhibitor inside the doors before paint and bodywork is done help or hurt?
You should clean it out with the spraying can of degreaser / brake cleaner first. POR 15 has a good degreaser too that's water soluble so you can wash out with water / alcohol after.Will adding a rust inhibitor inside the doors before paint and bodywork is done help or hurt?
That's kind of what I was thinking, haha. I recognize "bad" and "good" are subjective when it comes to rust and yes, you never know what's underneath until you dig...but I was thinking I was lucky too.Posts like this make me want to laugh and puke. Sorry, but that’s nothing. Call yourself lucky. Follow the advice I am sure is already written and you’ll be fine.
Looks nice. Can't tell what you touched up, which is the point I suppose. Was this a rust repair?You can do local repairs and use touch up paint with good results.
I’ve used this company for my 60 and others, a very good match.
Here is after my arch repair.Exact Match Car Paint Made Easy | AutomotiveTouchup
Restore your car's original paint with automotive paint that's an exact match for your car's color. Our touch-up paint is high quality to deliver professional results to every paint job. at AutomotiveTouchupwww.automotivetouchup.com
View attachment 2584818
And mine is a repaint. So I don't know the code. Looks like that site goes off of make/model/code. Any way to paint match without a code?You can do local repairs and use touch up paint with good results.
I’ve used this company for my 60 and others, a very good match.
Here is after my arch repair.Exact Match Car Paint Made Easy | AutomotiveTouchup
Restore your car's original paint with automotive paint that's an exact match for your car's color. Our touch-up paint is high quality to deliver professional results to every paint job. at AutomotiveTouchupwww.automotivetouchup.com
View attachment 2584818
You’ll need to find an alchemist wizard.And mine is a repaint. So I don't know the code. Looks like that site goes off of make/model/code. Any way to paint match without a code?