Body Rust Repair Questions (1 Viewer)

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Right you'd have to chip off the paint from the rust which I would recommend doing, except for maybe the roof gutters because that will let in more rain. Fluid Film is go
Is Fluid Film the one that has a gnarly smell? Feel like I've read somewhere on mud about one of the rust inhibitors having a really bad smell that just seems to never go away.
 
Yes - Fluid Film contains lanolin, so it smells a bit like wet sheep. I would refrain from using inside the rear quarter panels (for instance) which are connected to the cargo area. It is a fine anti-rust product, however.

The key thing is to get it covered or inside so that condensate (every night) and rain do not continue to drench those areas. The roof gutter rust is the most evil, since it is among the most difficult areas to repair. You must peel back that paint (pry it off with a pocketknife) and see what's going on there.

There are ton of trucks on Mud and threads that talk about rust - read up!
 
Yes - Fluid Film contains lanolin, so it smells a bit like wet sheep. I would refrain from using inside the rear quarter panels (for instance) which are connected to the cargo area. It is a fine anti-rust product, however.

The key thing is to get it covered or inside so that condensate (every night) and rain do not continue to drench those areas. The roof gutter rust is the most evil, since it is among the most difficult areas to repair. You must peel back that paint (pry it off with a pocketknife) and see what's going on there.

There are ton of trucks on Mud and threads that talk about rust - read up!
Thanks. What about using fluid film down inside the doors?
 
Thanks. What about using fluid film down inside the doors?
Do it! While you are at it, peel back the carpet in the driver side door well. Rust below the kick panel is common. Also between the backseat body mounts and rear fender well. Check passenger side too. If those are good you are lucky.
 
Thanks. What about using fluid film down inside the doors?
In doors, once all the paint/bodywork is done, I usually remove the door panels, clean out the dirt and window channel fuzz inside the doors, and use a pump oil can and squirt some motor oil or gear oil in the doors and then close the doors on some newspaper, so that the oil doesn't drip down the rockers. I want a fluid oil that will soak into the pinch seam at the bottom of the door. You can also buy aerosol Lithium white grease at Walmart or any parts store, and spray that in. It's liquid and then sets up into a sticky grease.

I would not use Fluid Film in the doors simply because on a hot day, the smells will drift through the plastic and door panel and get into the interior. Fluid Film is great but any grease/oil petroleum product (preferably not horribly odorous) will stop rust. I have also made homemade rustproofing by mixing paraffin and ATF, heating it, and pouring/painting it on rusty surfaces.
 
In doors, once all the paint/bodywork is done, I usually remove the door panels, clean out the dirt and window channel fuzz inside the doors, and use a pump oil can and squirt some motor oil or gear oil in the doors and then close the doors on some newspaper, so that the oil doesn't drip down the rockers. I want a fluid oil that will soak into the pinch seam at the bottom of the door. You can also buy aerosol Lithium white grease at Walmart or any parts store, and spray that in. It's liquid and then sets up into a sticky grease.

I would not use Fluid Film in the doors simply because on a hot day, the smells will drift through the plastic and door panel and get into the interior. Fluid Film is great but any grease/oil petroleum product (preferably not horribly odorous) will stop rust. I have also made homemade rustproofing by mixing paraffin and ATF, heating it, and pouring/painting it on rusty surfaces.
Will adding a rust inhibitor inside the doors before paint and bodywork is done help or hurt?
 
Will adding a rust inhibitor inside the doors before paint and bodywork is done help or hurt?
Fluid film is awesome and I put it inside of doors and everywhere else. It creeps and spreads out and covers everything. It will do a wonderful job keeping existing rust from getting worse, but I might worry about issues painting later unless you did a very thorough cleaning. The smell does dissipate but I don't find it unpleasant to begin with. Probably because I hate rust so much. There is also woolwax which is a little thicker and supposed to not smell as much but seems about the same to me.

I also use cosmoline (rust veto 342) which is more waxy and stays put once it sets. Also great stuff, but won't wick into pinch seams like fluid film or other petroleum products will. Might be a better option for the doors. 3M and others also have rust preventative body wax coatings, but to slow down what you have going on (what you've shown is only the tip of the iceberg) I think you'll need to soak the both sides of every spot you can get to in something that will seep and creep.

Plain old turtle wax wax rubbed into those external bubbles and spots will help seal them up too.

And don't get that truck anywhere near salt if at all possible, it's got open wounds and would go downhill in a hurry.
 
Will adding a rust inhibitor inside the doors before paint and bodywork is done help or hurt?
You should clean it out with the spraying can of degreaser / brake cleaner first. POR 15 has a good degreaser too that's water soluble so you can wash out with water / alcohol after.
 
Sanding isn't going to do much for most of that rust and cracked paint. You'll need to remove the trim and use an angle grinder. Expect to have complete holes by the time you grind out the rust.

If you're not welding or experienced with body repair, it would probably be easier to source some rust free doors and paint them then swap out your windows, window regulators, lock actuators, lock mechanisms and linkages. 60 doors will work on a 62.


They have the factory welded on nuts to switch out the lock actuators, lock mechanisms and the window regulators. Everything bolts in. The only thing is you would have to drill a small hole in the back door to put a grommet and allow a wire to come thru for power locks and windows. I know, I have two 62 doors on my 60. You could go to manual window cranks to simplify things if you have problems with the power windows.

I'd wait for everything. Even the gutters. It's winter, rainy, cold, and you said you don't have a shop and will have to do this outside. And this rust has been going on for years so 6 more months isn't going to be that much more.
 
Posts like this make me want to laugh and puke. Sorry, but that’s nothing. Call yourself lucky. Follow the advice I am sure is already written and you’ll be fine.
 
You can do local repairs and use touch up paint with good results.
I’ve used this company for my 60 and others, a very good match.
Here is after my arch repair.
8175B95A-2D15-4045-B43C-6835185945D0.jpeg
 
Posts like this make me want to laugh and puke. Sorry, but that’s nothing. Call yourself lucky. Follow the advice I am sure is already written and you’ll be fine.
That's kind of what I was thinking, haha. I recognize "bad" and "good" are subjective when it comes to rust and yes, you never know what's underneath until you dig...but I was thinking I was lucky too.
 
A little update. Applied Fluid Film today to all the exposed rust and paint bubbles. Wish I would have done it sooner (have owned it for 6 months). Hoping I did it correctly in that I wiped off the excess all the excess. Couldnt find much info online about apply to the body, only the frame. Did I do this correctly - or should I have left enough of the fluid film to be visible? Car cover is in the mail. Will plan to treat to inside of the doors with something else. I'm not risking the wet sheep smell. haha.
 
You can do local repairs and use touch up paint with good results.
I’ve used this company for my 60 and others, a very good match.
Here is after my arch repair.
View attachment 2584818
Looks nice. Can't tell what you touched up, which is the point I suppose. Was this a rust repair?
 
You can do local repairs and use touch up paint with good results.
I’ve used this company for my 60 and others, a very good match.
Here is after my arch repair.
View attachment 2584818
And mine is a repaint. So I don't know the code. Looks like that site goes off of make/model/code. Any way to paint match without a code?
 
And mine is a repaint. So I don't know the code. Looks like that site goes off of make/model/code. Any way to paint match without a code?
You’ll need to find an alchemist wizard.
 

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