Body Rust Repair Questions (1 Viewer)

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Good luck with this. In general, you are dealing with a can of worms here and it won't stop until ALL of the paint has been stripped and the full-extent of the rust has been shown to you. We are talking a solid 100+ hours of time to get this right depending on how precise you want to be. I went through this last summer with my 62. Picked out all the old gutter caulk (both top and under the rails, cut out and welded around wheel wells, floor boards. Truck is now at a body shop getting finished up. Had similar rust on the doors, tailgate, lower doors. Its a beast.

But its all doable if you put your mind to it.
 
Good luck with this. In general, you are dealing with a can of worms here and it won't stop until ALL of the paint has been stripped and the full-extent of the rust has been shown to you. We are talking a solid 100+ hours of time to get this right depending on how precise you want to be. I went through this last summer with my 62. Picked out all the old gutter caulk (both top and under the rails, cut out and welded around wheel wells, floor boards. Truck is now at a body shop getting finished up. Had similar rust on the doors, tailgate, lower doors. Its a beast.

But its all doable if you put your mind to it.
Well done. Curious about how you handled the rust on the doors (near the windows)? Did you have to weld there?
 
Good luck with this. In general, you are dealing with a can of worms here and it won't stop until ALL of the paint has been stripped and the full-extent of the rust has been shown to you. We are talking a solid 100+ hours of time to get this right depending on how precise you want to be. I went through this last summer with my 62. Picked out all the old gutter caulk (both top and under the rails, cut out and welded around wheel wells, floor boards. Truck is now at a body shop getting finished up. Had similar rust on the doors, tailgate, lower doors. Its a beast.

But its all doable if you put your mind to it.
Got a thread on your rust repair?
 
Just an offering of another rust inhibitor is an aviation product called ACF-50. Works well as a penetrant too. It's able to penetrate around a driven rivet and aluminum skin. A little goes a long way! It's a fantastic lubricant too. Doesn't smell terrible either. Aircraft Spruce carries it.
Just now getting into replacing our carpet and found a couple "discoveries".
 
You have mostly pretty truck now. Lovely metallic paint. Sadly there is poison lurking under the surface. You need to stop pretending you have a pretty truck. Lots of work there. Too much to reasonably pay a pro, at least where i live. Get an angle grinder and start grinding. Get a gas mig and start welding to fill the holes you make. Once rust is gone hit surface with zero-rust, thats a good anti rust paint.

I love fluid film. The smells dies off after a few weeks. If it hits rust it'll wick in and make it explode into an oily muck that is easier to screwdriver away.
 

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