For Sale Bluetooth Stereo 100% Hidden, only takes up the space of a dash knob! (Custom knob included) (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter thecrazygreek
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This is awesome. Pretty much exactly what I was looking for (though of course I didn't know it existed).
Guessing that larger model fits into the ashtray slot, which I was already going to mod for some sort of radio. How soon you thinking on that one?
Guessing that larger model fits into the ashtray slot, which I was already going to mod for some sort of radio. How soon you thinking on that one?
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #183
Probably going to be around the first of the year.
I have another option I'm working on that matches the early 70s late sixties heater controls panel. This may be the way I go. It's simpler and still looks stock.
CondeCruiser
SILVER Star
Got mine today. Thanks again.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #185
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #186
Updating this thread with revamped offerings.
I would like to notify everyone I have eliminated several knob designs as there was little interest.
Here are the designs I am still offering:
If you have already ordered a unit with an expired design (thank you!) no worries, I will still get it to you as promised.
If you are interested in purchasing a unit please PM me.
Thanks Everyone!
I would like to notify everyone I have eliminated several knob designs as there was little interest.
Here are the designs I am still offering:
- RADIO (Text Only)
- Speaker Outline (Icon)
- TUNES (Text Only)
- Music Symbol (Icon)
- TEQ (Icon - Smaller Version)
If you have already ordered a unit with an expired design (thank you!) no worries, I will still get it to you as promised.
If you are interested in purchasing a unit please PM me.
Thanks Everyone!
Last edited:
@thecrazygreek
I think something needs to be clarified regarding the sub option. You're 2.1 version, 2 channels audio with Sub-out, is ONLY providing a signal to an external amplifier, correct? Or are you thinking it will be a 1 channel amplified signal? I can't imagine it would have enough power to actually get anything reasonable power wise for a dedicated sub amplifier. I also think there are too many tuning options with a sub channel, but maybe you can sort all that out.
For those of you with the original version, a line out converter (LOC) can be used to convert to an RCA signal to go to another powered dedicated subwoofer amplifier. Like this:
PAC SNI-35 50W Peak Variable LOC - Sonic Electronix
PAC SNI-35 • 50W Peak Variable LOC • Adjustable Line Output Converter • Utilize Audio Transformer for Noise Isolation • Compatible with 2 - 40 watts RMS of Radio Output
PAC LP7-2 LocPRO Series 2-Channel Line Output Converter
PAC LP7-2 • 2-Channel LocPRO Series Line Output Converter with Remote Turn-On • 2-Channel LOC PRO Series • Remote Turn on Wire • Single Dial • Signal-Sensing Circuit • Surface Mount Construction • Level Gain Adjustment
Some high end amps will accept signals from speaker wires directly, most require RCA inputs so the LOC is the way to go.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #188
First of all... Great info!@thecrazygreek
I think something needs to be clarified regarding the sub option. You're 2.1 version, 2 channels audio with Sub-out, is ONLY providing a signal to an external amplifier, correct? Or are you thinking it will be a 1 channel amplified signal? I can't imagine it would have enough power to actually get anything reasonable power wise for a dedicated sub amplifier. I also think there are too many tuning options with a sub channel, but maybe you can sort all that out.
For those of you with the original version, a line out converter (LOC) can be used to convert to an RCA signal to go to another powered dedicated subwoofer amplifier. Like this:
PAC SNI-35 50W Peak Variable LOC - Sonic Electronix
PAC SNI-35 • 50W Peak Variable LOC • Adjustable Line Output Converter • Utilize Audio Transformer for Noise Isolation • Compatible with 2 - 40 watts RMS of Radio Outputwww.sonicelectronix.com
PAC LP7-2 LocPRO Series 2-Channel Line Output Converter
PAC LP7-2 • 2-Channel LocPRO Series Line Output Converter with Remote Turn-On • 2-Channel LOC PRO Series • Remote Turn on Wire • Single Dial • Signal-Sensing Circuit • Surface Mount Construction • Level Gain Adjustment
Some high end amps will accept signals from speaker wires directly, most require RCA inputs so the LOC is the way to go.
But to clarify... Yes the three boards I have been testing with all are true 2.1 amps. Two are 80watt X 2 +100watt for dedicated subwoofer. The third is 50wx50w +100watt for sub. And they really are nice. But all of these models present other issues. None are small enough to dash mount with a single knob. The ones that are full featured have 5 knobs!!!
There is however one board that may be the winner... it's three knobs and has 80 x 80 x100. Also has several in and out ports. Only problem with this one is it doesn't have on board bluetooth and needs a second board connected to provide it. (Which I have)
Now as far as mounting goes, I have looked at all sorts of places to fit it. None are really practical from a cost standpoint. The radio delete plate option would probably work ok.
But I think maybe the best way to go is to recreate the late sixties heater control panel and mount it behind with the three knobs sticking out. This idea actually came from a mud member!
@thecrazygreek I just thought it would be cool to have a 3.5mm Jack for a microphone for when taking calls over Bluetooth with your 2 channel kits... Not sure if it would fit?
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #190
That is an option I can make happen on the small units. It's a different model, and I would have to leave it up to the buyer to figure out how to mount the 3.5mm audio jack coming off of the board.
Dang... So no way to retrofit my two units?
I think youre better of with preamp outputs only, not a dedicated amplifier channel. Just my opinion, but 100w will be extremely underwhelming unless the box is HIGHLY efficient for any decent bass in the FJ40 platform. Very few will want to spend the money, or the space, for such a box in an FJ40. Who actually HAS a subwoofer in their current FJ40? It surely isnt because there arent easy ways to integrate one into an existing audio system. There are many very simple ways to have bluetooth connectivity through phone to a small digital mono-block amplifier to run a sub.First of all... Great info!
But to clarify... Yes the three boards I have been testing with all are true 2.1 amps. Two are 80watt X 2 +100watt for dedicated subwoofer. The third is 50wx50w +100watt for sub. And they really are nice. But all of these models present other issues. None are small enough to dash mount with a single knob. The ones that are full featured have 5 knobs!!!
There is however one board that may be the winner... it's three knobs and has 80 x 80 x100. Also has several in and out ports. Only problem with this one is it doesn't have on board bluetooth and needs a second board connected to provide it. (Which I have)
Now as far as mounting goes, I have looked at all sorts of places to fit it. None are really practical from a cost standpoint. The radio delete plate option would probably work ok.
But I think maybe the best way to go is to recreate the late sixties heater control panel and mount it behind with the three knobs sticking out. This idea actually came from a mud member!
Again, my opinion, the offering you have is rad due to package size, Integrated amp, bluetooth connectivity, and use of the stock looking knob for aesthetics.
The more functions and complexity added, I think there are better existing options on the market.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #193
Agreed!
Pre-Amp is the way to go on these. And I would probably want an active amp anyway along with the controls you can achieve.
So I went ahead and ordered a line out converter to give it a go, and see how it works with the units I am offering.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #194
I'll see what I can do..
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #195
For folks who are wondering about my heater control panel idea... This is what I am envisioning. Similar to the under dash panel found on the late sixties rigs for controlling your heater.
The knobs are actually a hybrid. They should look familiar as they are copies from the HEAT PULL / FAN PULL design. But I shrank them down a bit, and added the single letter like you see in the smaller heater knobs as well as the old HAZARD knob.
the small hole in the upper left would accommodate a 3.5mm line in option, and the TEQ logo is for the hell of it.. Some sort of L shaped bracket would be needed to mount to your dash.
B=BASS V=VOLUME T=TREBLE
The knobs are actually a hybrid. They should look familiar as they are copies from the HEAT PULL / FAN PULL design. But I shrank them down a bit, and added the single letter like you see in the smaller heater knobs as well as the old HAZARD knob.
the small hole in the upper left would accommodate a 3.5mm line in option, and the TEQ logo is for the hell of it.. Some sort of L shaped bracket would be needed to mount to your dash.
B=BASS V=VOLUME T=TREBLE
@thecrazygreek
Can a standard dash switch nut be used on the threaded portion that protrudes through the dash to secure the unit and give the truly factory look?
Can a standard dash switch nut be used on the threaded portion that protrudes through the dash to secure the unit and give the truly factory look?
You must not sleep! You're a maniac. Looks great
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #198
Unfortunately no. It's too small. About 6mm.
I could perhaps make a custom bezel cover type thing to make it "look" more factory.
In for the radio replacement one. If you don't have any left where is everyone sourcing there radio blanks?
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
- Thread starter
- #200
I am working on a RADIO delete plate cnc'd from Aluminum.
I will post it up in a separate thread as well as here. Still figuring out mounting options.
