Blue Sea Fuse Block Install Thread (1 Viewer)

[2000UZJ]

After 6 years of adding components, and never really removing wiring thinking it was fine, it turned out I am not actually "fine". I dropped my mother off at the airport today and was driving home. I was behind a old truck that smelled like smoke. I made a smartass comment to myself and passed him. A few seconds later I realized it was not his truck, but mine. The smoke smell was getting thicker and thicker and then came the smoke. I shut the 100 off and got over as fast as possible and got the hood open to put out the soon to be fire. One of my "dead wires" somehow completed a circuit with a live relay and built up so much heat the plastic melted, and wires caught fire, but did no damage as it was mounted in a bundle of other wires safely away from any hoses or pumps. It lightly scorched the sheet metal.

I drove home, saw a Amazon box at the front door with my Blue Sea Fuse Block, USB outlets, and 12V sockets waiting for me. I was so excited to start installing things I forgot that I had to pull every bit of wiring out. I will be restoring the engine bay and cleaning things up first. Figured it would be fun to document the work here and would possibly help others avoid the mistake that I made.

Here is what is in my truck for the lights, radio amps, HID's, LED's and other things.

3 HID Relay Harnesses
3 LED relay harnesses
2 custom relay harnesses
4 LED resistors on each turn signal
2 Antenna grounds
4 gauge wiring to power inverter
40-50 feet of dead wiring that is not in use.


I'll start with the pictures of todays progress, I removed 100% of the wiring, I had to leave the low and high beam harnesses in place to drive.

My battery terminals are the originals, and have corrosion built up on each terminal severely, causing issues with my accessories. Relay harnesses were not cut to length, just wrapped and stuffed into any open area I could find. I was tapping relays into relays for power. All of the connectors have corroded beyond cleaning, they will be replaced this weekend with new and nicer more appropriate terminals.

Once everything was removed I started to clean and wipe things down.

Battery before and after:

This is HALF of the wiring that I pulled out.

The relay that was not in use that somehow came back to life:

I started replacing my two way switches with a little bit nicer ones, I will continue to replace all switches and mount them in different areas depending on their use.

Everything worked before, surprisingly each switch worked as needed and didn't have any issues. However every time I opened the hood, I felt that I was the kind of person that told people how to wire vehicles properly, yet my truck was disgusting, dangerous, and unreliable. Wiring, Lighting and relay harnesses is my job, something had to change and it wasn't going to by my job...it will be my wiring.


Plans for the Blue Sea Fuse Block are:

All accessories ran through the block properly, labeled, and each wire ran, soldered, and heat shrinked to its proper length.

Two 12V sockets in the cargo area and one in the front passenger area.
One dedicated hot USB socket for phones, Go Pro, and any other USB accessories I may have.
One USB socket in the cargo for camping and running a USB fan, or keeping something charged in the back (camera's in a bag).
All outlets will be on a illuminated master switch so nothing can be left and drain the battery.
TMAX Dual Battery System with a main Group 31 and my current battery as the dual.

Like I said, I am disgusted I let this go this far. Any input or photos would be awesome. It's funny that the day my fuse block arrives, this happens. What a message!

 

[TrekboxX]

Wow. Glad it turned out to be minor! Good on ya for taking the bull by the horns. I'm about to rewire some stuff myself- I'll be anxiously awaiting your progress and trying to learn what I can.

Good luck!

 

[robustbambi]

Like I said, I am disgusted I let this go this far. Any input or photos would be awesome. It's funny that the day my fuse block arrives, this happens. What a message!

Admitting you have a problem is the first step

If ya want some help wiring, i can stop by after class sometime this week. Its good to know that i have nothing to worry about parking in those "reserved" spots on campus

Good luck

 

[2000UZJ]

Admitting you have a problem is the first step

If ya want some help wiring, i can stop by after class sometime this week. Its good to know that i have nothing to worry about parking in those "reserved" spots on campus

Good luck

I'll give ya a shout later. I'll have to do it at a shop. The mess now is a result of no garage, or real tools. I have access to a shop now and have been building up my tool bag with drill press, welding stuff, grinders and tube benders. I'll be making a mounting plate for the relay harnesses and fuse block as well as a dual battery tray. Which probably means my "fab shop" will blow up and cause half of Atlanta to burn to the ground.

 

[schow]

Definitely will follow this as I also would like to rewire some of my accessory. Seems like over the years, I am adding more and more accessory, but didn't really organize all the wiring.

 

[Jason YY]

I have two again share two sources for 12V electrical components,

The first is

geniunedeals.com <--- Better customer service that you would ever expect (Marine wire, Blue Sea,Custom made Marine grade battery cables )

second is

connectorsupply.com <----I really like to use the 3M butt connectors with shrink tube and sealer this place sells them by the 100 pack for what 25 will cost at West Marine

 

[Mxndrnks]

Hey Nick,

Since you are running so many aftermarket lights with relays, You might concider something like this:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/352802-auxiliary-fuse-relay-panel.html

He is no longer making new kits. But you could build one yourself pretty easily. Here is a link to the fuse relay box: http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46343/

Here is a write up installing one: http://offroadpassport.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1228

There are also some schematics linked in the mud link above. Here is another link that sells some kits: http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/accessories/aux-relay-fuse-panel/

Good luck!

 

[no-pistons]

Wow. Micky Mouse would be proud of that mess

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Holy crap man! Glad to see you're cleaning it up, you're lucky you didn't have an engine fire. There is nothing I appreciate more than someone who has mad cable management and wiring skills.

 

[yeti in ga]

Holy moly, yea glad that was not any hotter. Maybe when your done you can review my wiring to see if I did anything at risk. I really like my T MAX set up, it has been great having two added 12 volt sockets in the back always on.

 

[2000UZJ]

I have two again share two sources for 12V electrical components,

The first is

geniunedeals.com <--- Better customer service that you would ever expect (Marine wire, Blue Sea,Custom made Marine grade battery cables )

second is

connectorsupply.com <----I really like to use the 3M butt connectors with shrink tube and sealer this place sells them by the 100 pack for what 25 will cost at West Marine

I will check those guys out. I couldn't find anything on 12V Sockets on Amazon. Having trouble finding affordable 0 gauge wiring as well. I only need 4'.

Hey Nick,

Since you are running so many aftermarket lights with relays, You might concider something like this:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/352802-auxiliary-fuse-relay-panel.html

He is no longer making new kits. But you could build one yourself pretty easily. Here is a link to the fuse relay box: http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46343/

Here is a write up installing one: http://offroadpassport.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1228

There are also some schematics linked in the mud link above. Here is another link that sells some kits: http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/accessories/aux-relay-fuse-panel/

Good luck!

Thanks! That looks like a great setup, I plan on designing a plate that bolts into the fender and has the relays mounted to it with labels and status lights soldered in.

Wow. Micky Mouse would be proud of that mess

Holy crap man! Glad to see you're cleaning it up, you're lucky you didn't have an engine fire. There is nothing I appreciate more than someone who has mad cable management and wiring skills.

'

It would of been if I didn't stop. I plan on taking wiring and cable management to another level. This project that I have decided to do will probably take a few weeks to a month or so depending on how picky I get. I'm trying to find a way to make a riveted cable runner throughout the engine bay for each wire.

Holy moly, yea glad that was not any hotter. Maybe when your done you can review my wiring to see if I did anything at risk. I really like my T MAX set up, it has been great having two added 12 volt sockets in the back always on.

I will swing by with my crawlers and check the wiring. Did you pull the carpet when you ran the cables? I need to pull mine to run everything buy I have not done it yet.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I'd loom it like Toyota did and pull wires off the loom as you pass by each item that needs power.

 

[Griffin]

reminds me of back in the day - my first car, a black 84 Mazda RX-7 (YEA!!), that damn near caught on fire due to some electrical mess under my steering will dash. Had to stop in the road and beat it out before it caught fire. Grabbed a hand full of wires, wrapped it in electrical tape, and she ran fine. Not that I suggest doing the same, but...

...and it IS possible to wind up a rotary engine too tight. Ask me how I know

Have fun with the re-wire! Can't wait to see that clean and well organized engine bay!

 

[hankinid]

I will check those guys out. I couldn't find anything on 12V Sockets on Amazon. Having trouble finding affordable 0 gauge wiring as well. I only need 4'.

http://www.rallylights.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1153 for the 12v sockets.

Local welding supply, perhaps, for a chunk of 0ga wire. Failing that, I'd look for a local FBO at the airport.

hth

Steve

 

[jonharis]

I'm about to embark on a large wiring project myself, dual battery, fuse blocks, outlets, inverter, and lighting and cleaning up existing while I'm at it. and I don't really have any experience with electrical. Look forward to seeing your ideas.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Nick,

I would also recommend, if you have not already thought of this, to start a CAD'd wiring diagram as you build to keep for later troubleshooting.

I have been thinking of this type of setup BEFORE I start adding all of the goodies. Yeah, it can be a pain, but it is so worth it in the long run! Good luck and keep the dialog coming. I will be watching to see what you pick and how you route your power.

Good luck man,

Jonathan

 

[2000UZJ]

Nick,

I would also recommend, if you have not already thought of this, to start a CAD'd wiring diagram as you build to keep for later troubleshooting.

I have been thinking of this type of setup BEFORE I start adding all of the goodies. Yeah, it can be a pain, but it is so worth it in the long run! Good luck and keep the dialog coming. I will be watching to see what you pick and how you route your power.

Good luck man,

Jonathan

Thanks! I am working on a CAD diagram for those who are interested in seeing how I wire things. I have also purchased a standard water pump and will be mounting it in the rear, it will be hooked to a switch and will be mounting a 5 gallon bladder where the OEM subwoofer goes. Updates to come on this addition as well.

 

[paflytyer]

Some people might not like the idea, but 0-2ga welding wire is much cheaper than power wire you buy from an audio shop. In some cases, I think it's better and it's usually insulated better. Copper wire is copper wire.

EDIT: Welding wire wont be as pretty and bright red as high $ power wire, so if you like the bling, you gotta spend the coin.

Double EDIT: Welding wire is much more flexible than power/battery wire, I had it backwards.

 

[2000UZJ]

Some people might not like the idea, but 0-2ga welding wire is much cheaper than power wire you buy from an audio shop. In some cases, I think it's better and it's usually insulated better. Copper wire is copper wire. It may not flex as well as $$ power cable, but unless you're making pretzels, who cares? Save some $$ and spend it elsewhere.

EDIT: Welding wire wont be as pretty and bright red as high $ power wire, so if you like the bling, you gotta spend the coin.

The main wires going to the fuse block will be ran very stealthy. Other than the connections on the battery and fuse block you will not see anything. I will look into the welding cable. I am trying to avoid short cuts at all costs, I've already had my lesson taught to me about short cuts with electrical components. Never again. I almost lost my baby (the LC lol) to a short cut.

 

[paflytyer]

Well..... disregard what I said. Welding cable will be more flexable, not less. It will also have a higher temp rating. I had it backwards. Battery cable will be more stiff, but can still be used as a power wire too.

I remember my dad making 25ft jumper cables using welding wire when I was a kid. I just asked him about them, he still has them.

I used battery cable for my setup. The wire count and insulation make it stiff. Welding wire will bend easily, so you could actually wrap it like a pretzel.