Blue Sea Fuse Block Install Thread (1 Viewer)

[Patineto]

If you ever miss the old look for your engine bay..

Costco sell a "Ademami spaghetti" that looks just like it..

 

[Patineto]

I'm about to embark on a large wiring project myself, dual battery, fuse blocks, outlets, inverter, and lighting and cleaning up existing while I'm at it. and I don't really have any experience with electrical. Look forward to seeing your ideas.

Well if all fails you "Avatar" will help..

 

[Patineto]

I try to do it annually (due now). It comes back factory new looking. Makes digging into projects so much nicer.

Roberto engine On or OFF...??

 

[Patineto]

So are you running just one relay (the one on the fire wall) to trigger all the items, or do you plan to make a secondary tray for the relays..

 

[Patineto]

I still don't know what I'm doing please help...

 

[aaronrules]

Reviving this thread. I plan on running a 6ga. wire from my Interstate AGM battery (my only battery) all the way to the back to this same fuse block. I'm fairly certain that won't be too hard...I've ran wires in many vehicles. My question is, do I "NEED" to run an inline fuse between the battery and the fuse box? The fuse block will only serve the back cargo area. Max load it will have on it would be my Edgestar fridge, a 12 volt fan ( Amazon.com: Fan-Tastic 01100WH Endless Breeze Stand alone Fan: Automotive )....Maybe eventually some outside lights hooked up to a switch. I honestly do not think the load on this fuse box would ever approach 30 amps, probably half that...now that is coming from a very non-electric or circuit guy so I may be wrong...which is usual. I plan on trying to find a place to install this so that it remains accessible while staying out of the way. I've seen the factory jack location as spot and will more than likely use that location. The jack and stuff will go in my drawer on the other side of the cargo area. Can I ground the fuse block right there with a self tapping screw? Or is there a better location?

Thanks for any input guys. Last minute stuff for HIH is making me a nervous wreck! Oh yeah, I am planning on keeping this fuse block always hot.

 

[fireball]

Yes you need to fuse it as close to the battery as possible.

The fuse size should match the wire size.

Make sure you have a good ground. I also ran a ground wire back to my aux fuse box because I didn't want to worry about not having a good ground. I have more stuff running through it so would be less of s concern for you.

 

[Dissent]

Blue Sea makes a great fuse block that goes directly on the battery terminal, no mid-wire connections and mounting to worry about.
Comes in a single or double with fuses up to 300A.
Blue Sea Systems 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP : Battery Terminal Fuse : Sports & Outdoors

 

[aaronrules]

Blue Sea makes a great fuse block that goes directly on the battery terminal, no mid-wire connections and mounting to worry about.
Comes in a single or double with fuses up to 300A.
Blue Sea Systems 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP : Battery Terminal Fuse : Sports & Outdoors

I like this idea a lot! I'm worried it won't fit with the Slee AGM battery terminals though.

 

[aaronrules]

I am wondering if this is better idea. A breaker would be better than fuses.

Amazon.com: Bussmann (CB185-100) 100 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker: Car Electronics

 

[fireball]

That's what I would do if I did this project.

Oh wait, I already did I pulled my power off the aux battery. You can see the wiring to the primary battery goes through the 200amp fuse and the wiring to the rear aux panel in the old subwoofer location goes through the 150amp breaker, both mounted to the 2nd battery box.

 

[Dissent]

Use whatever you like. I personally like fuses over breakers but to each their own, just ensure the battery is protected.

 

[Dissent]

I like this idea a lot! I'm worried it won't fit with the Slee AGM battery terminals though.

The terminal mount is 3/8" I believe. I used to have it on my AGM Diehard Platinum screw terminal. Now it's on my OEM positive terminal bolt.

 

[aaronrules]

Is 100 AMP to high? I'm trying to add up all the stuff I could possibly want to have running and I don't think I would get close to 100 amps.

 

[Dissent]

This main fuse is to protect the battery should that large wire short out. Anything above what your full load would be should be sufficient. 100A or 150A is what I've seen.

 

[CUBuffs]

Reviving this thread. I plan on running a 6ga. wire from my Interstate AGM battery (my only battery) all the way to the back to this same fuse block. I'm fairly certain that won't be too hard...I've ran wires in many vehicles. My question is, do I "NEED" to run an inline fuse between the battery and the fuse box? The fuse block will only serve the back cargo area. Max load it will have on it would be my Edgestar fridge, a 12 volt fan ( Amazon.com: Fan-Tastic 01100WH Endless Breeze Stand alone Fan: Automotive )....Maybe eventually some outside lights hooked up to a switch. I honestly do not think the load on this fuse box would ever approach 30 amps, probably half that...now that is coming from a very non-electric or circuit guy so I may be wrong...which is usual. I plan on trying to find a place to install this so that it remains accessible while staying out of the way. I've seen the factory jack location as spot and will more than likely use that location. The jack and stuff will go in my drawer on the other side of the cargo area. Can I ground the fuse block right there with a self tapping screw? Or is there a better location?

Thanks for any input guys. Last minute stuff for HIH is making me a nervous wreck! Oh yeah, I am planning on keeping this fuse block always hot.

Hello! I'm starting a similar project on my 07 LX.. curious what path you took to run wires to the back? I picked up some 6 AWG welding wire, and debating if I should run it outside, or inside... I would prefer to run it inside, but seems I would need to poke a hole through the firewall, and not sure how well the wire would fit.

Also, I ordered one of those Blue Sea Terminal Fuse Blocks.. little concerned about the height and hitting the hood though.. so might go with a breaker instead.. or shorten the bolt down..

 

[Dissent]

Hello! I'm starting a similar project on my 07 LX.. curious what path you took to run wires to the back? I picked up some 6 AWG welding wire, and debating if I should run it outside, or inside... I would prefer to run it inside, but seems I would need to poke a hole through the firewall, and not sure how well the wire would fit.

Also, I ordered one of those Blue Sea Terminal Fuse Blocks.. little concerned about the height and hitting the hood though.. so might go with a breaker instead.. or shorten the bolt down..

I ran my 1/0 cable from the battery, using the Blue Sea Terminal Block (it won't hit the hood. I tested using some clay then realized the rubber seal on the top of the battery tray actually contacts the hood. If you're lower than it, you're golden. I used to have it mounted to the single positive stud on my AGM battery as well with no issue.) down across the charcoal canister and ABS stuff and through the large FW grommet, along the top edge of the carpet in the driver's foot well, under the heater, across the passenger foot well above the carpet then down the passenger wire well under the sill plate. I've secured the cable along the path with Adel clamps and it hasn't budged in 2 years. I also wrapped it in split TechFlex braided wiring sleeve. Lastly, I used split fuel line on all sharp body panels where the cable would cross and secured it well.

I went with the 1/0 cable because I didn't want to run a second one later. My primary goal was to run my car stereo amp and a few accessories. I wanted to ensure I could run any future load including a winch if need be one day.

I don't have any pics of the foot wells. The last pic you can see the cable in the Adel clamp.

 

[CUBuffs]

thanks - that's where I ran the cable through in my 80... but the 100 doesn't seem to have a nice/easy grommet on the drivers side to use..

I've seen some threads where folks drilled a hole through..

 

[Dissent]

Gotcha, not sure on that point then. If you do drill a hole, remember that those firewalls are usually double-wall so the grommet may have to be thicker than normal. They sell a graduated FW grommet that you cut to size depending on the wire used. Good luck!

 

[aaronrules]

I'll have to take a picture, but I mounted my 100 breaker on the very top of the firewall, right underneath the rubber seal where the hood closes. Very easy to access, and I think it's up out of the way enough to not have to worry about water and mud even though it's waterproof. I poked a hole in the rubber boot on the firewall on the driver's side and ran the power cable under the carpet right next to the big bunch of wires going to the back. I yanked the stock jack, and will mount the fuse block on the metal piece the jack sat in later today. Easy to access the fuse block, and there is a a close ground right there also. I gotta finish this install today because we leave tomorrow for HIH!!!!