Blue Sea ACR-S vs T-MAX dual battery (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Threads
224
Messages
6,067
Location
Kansas
Trying to way the pro's and con's between these two relativly affordable systems.

Amazon.com: T-MAX 47-3800 Dual Battery System: Automotive

Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems SI-ACR Automatc Charging Relay - 12/24V DC / 120A : Boating Battery Switches : Sports & Outdoors

The blue sea is cheaper, can also be had with the little red dial switch for about the same price as the T MAX. I do like that the TMAX has an in cab LED indicator that shows you what voltage your batteries have on them. It might even have a low voltage alarm, but I'm not sure on that. I'd like to hear from those that have ran one or both of these systems. Please let me know what you think the merits of either system are. Thanks in advance fellas.
 
I have the T max system. Had it for almost 5 years. The good thing about it is the display and being able to manually link from the display unit.

However the blue seas is probably a better isolater and can be set up to do the same thing as the T max with a couple voltage gauges and a toggle if you want to get real basic.

If a vendor in here could come up with a display and control unit as compact as the ones that come with other DB kits it would be nice. At the time I bought the T max kit it was only $115 so it was a lot cheaper then the national Luna and others.

There are also cheaper good options for a battery isolater itself. However you still got to buy cable and connectors.
 
why not us 2 of these and the blue sea?
http://www.amazon.com/Coromose-12V-..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=0TY384RJWPFKTTZ37X7B

i have the blue sea on my boat it isolates and only lets voltage from the start battery (hooked up to engine and alt) to go to the aux battery when the charging voltages are pressent. never a direct connection like the t-max.

with dual batteries the idea is you either use them like in a diesel truck always connected but you replace them at the same time with like models same manufacturing lot. this makes sure you have the least amount of difference and wear to maximize life. they wear together and age at similar rates charge and discharge at the same rate. with boats and cruisers where the second battery is for running extra stuff camping and when not running, isolation is better so they are not fighting each other for voltage or running each other down. the T-max kind of does that since it turns off the connect to minimize the time connected but if your start battery was going bad you would potentially be draining the aux battery trying to charge the start battery but really only generating heat in the start battery that is bad. there is probably a little more logic in the controller but the connection appears to just be a large solenoid like they use on there winch.

Thats my $1.02...
 
@cjmoon I think I'm tracking you. Basically your saying the TMAX controller doesn't voltage sense like the ACR ? Or do you think it senses the voltage and only sends signal to the solenoid when the primary is good to go ? The fact that it has a combine features makes me think it separates them somehow.
 
I'm with Jess. I've used the BlueSea product on my last three boats to isolate multiple banks of batteries. Keeps my two starting batteries isolated from the 2-6 house batteries while the ACR keeps everything in check. Never been stranded even after depleting the house batts pounding the stereo all day anchored in the cove. The "combine" function on their switch has saved my bacon as well when one of my start batts died.

Mitch and I are fix'n to do this install soon in prep for the AR trip along with a second house batt. Don't want that fridge and sub killing the morning start-up!
 
I am 100% satisfied with my Blue Sea 7622.

I am as well but am actually looking at replacing mine with a Ctek dual batter isolator. Seems like an improved way of controlling and keeping batteries from getting cooked.
 
I am as well but am actually looking at replacing mine with a Ctek dual batter isolator. Seems like an improved way of controlling and keeping batteries from getting cooked.
Yes, I like the idea of the integrated dc-dc chargers and isolators. Blue Sea also recently released one.

I would like to see them with higher current ratings as I like to combine my batteries for winching or, if necessary, self-jumping.
 
@cjmoon I think I'm tracking you. Basically your saying the TMAX controller doesn't voltage sense like the ACR ? Or do you think it senses the voltage and only sends signal to the solenoid when the primary is good to go ? The fact that it has a combine features makes me think it separates them somehow.
hard to say for sure it could have some logic built in to the controller. but when it does combine it's 100%. it's like jumping the battery to charge it. we all know the warnings with jump starting and battery charging. the Blue Sea and others act like a current limiting charger to protect both batteries.
boat engines and computers are very voltage sensitive and don't run well without 13+ from what i have found . i trust Blue Sea. and the marine design requirement is superior in my mind to the average vehicle application. there are always exceptions. but a bad marine product shows up very quick and is pushed off the market very quickly with reviews.
 
I looked at that on my last/current boat build but the ACR is mounted as close to the batts as possible which often doesn't have the most convenient access in boats thus a remote mounted switch is necessary as the banks are shut down every time we exit the vessel. In the 80, it would be pretty slick with the integrated switch on the ACR thus alleviating some extra 0/2 AWG leads simplifying the installation and having to find a convenient switch location.

I'm pretty sure I remember their tech guy telling me the little remote LED switch-a-ma-bob was not necessary for it to function since the combine function is on the ACR switch as well. I've never found a need for the starter isolation either and leave it out of the equation so that entire harness need not be wired in if you want to simplify as much as possible. I doubt Mitch would ever need to switch it off regardless and all he'd do is pop the hood if he needed to combine banks in an emergency. It's a bit more spendy and certainly well above the needed rating but I'm glad you brought that product up.

I've had good luck ordering Blue Sea stuff from these guys...free shipping over $100

Blue Sea Systems 7622 ML-ACR Automatic Charging Relay with Manual Control - 12V DC 500A

Add one of these along with it...Great little fuse block that has a three 200A and four 20A circuits. Awesome for wiring in high load items.

Blue Sea Systems 7725 SafetyHub 100 Fuse Block
 
Last edited:
i don't really see the need other than the convenience but i would guess you carry jumper cables already would you stop? i dought it so really your wasting money
 
@milemarker60 made the decision easy for me. He found the 7622 for $135 on ebay, everywhere else is running them at almost $200. I did want the ability to combine batteries for winching. So it looks like I will have control over the system from in the cab. Now I would just like to get some voltage monitors for the two batteries.
 
@milemarker60 made the decision easy for me. He found the 7622 for $135 on ebay, everywhere else is running them at almost $200. I did want the ability to combine batteries for winching. So it looks like I will have control over the system from in the cab. Now I would just like to get some voltage monitors for the two batteries.
I have the same unit (weirdly enough I also got a great deal on mine new in box on Ebay). I'm using a National Luna dual battery monitor.
 
I have the same unit (weirdly enough I also got a great deal on mine new in box on Ebay). I'm using a National Luna dual battery monitor.

Don't suppose you have a link to what you use and maybe a picture of your mount location ?
 
I use the blue sea system and installed a small voltage meter with toggle switch to check each battery:
DMS-20LCD-0-DCM, $30.00
DATEL DC Voltmeters
20lcd_dcm0.gif
 
@milemarker60 made the decision easy for me. He found the 7622 for $135 on ebay, everywhere else is running them at almost $200. I did want the ability to combine batteries for winching. So it looks like I will have control over the system from in the cab. Now I would just like to get some voltage monitors for the two batteries.

If the engine was running, the cheaper ACR would already have the batteries combined.
 
If the engine was running, the cheaper ACR would already have the batteries combined.
It will disconnect right after you start winching and the voltage drops. Not to mention you would be pulling far more current through the smaller unit than it is rated for.
 
It will disconnect right after you start winching and the voltage drops. Not to mention you would be pulling far more current through the smaller unit than it is rated for.
I'm referring to the unit that is still rated at the high amperage but doesn't have the manual combine feature.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom