Did you notice a improvement in cooling? Did you do the hole mod or just the oil?
Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (1 Viewer)
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Did you notice a improvement in cooling? Did you do the hole mod or just the oil?
I noticed better cooling going from 7K to 10K on both 80's w/o a loss in gas mileage.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I have a modded temp gauge, and it definitely cools better-I notice it the most when I pull off the freeway and stop at a light-better hook up, airflow and the gauge does not climb as much.
I do totally understand why Toyota made the gauge numb and read the same within a wide range. It can drive you crazy otherwise.
I did not tune the opening. I'm going to try the 15k oil this summer and may tun it then. Like Tools says, it's a quick and easy process.
Hi guys. Great post. I finally got my hands on an old style blue hub here in the Philippines for my 2L-TE engine. I currently have one, but the thermostat spring has quit working, so I wound it backwards a turn to force the valve open just so I can keep the truck cool until I get this all sorted out.
I found some of the OFNA 10K oil on Amazon.com and will have it in a few days. I've set the valve on the fan to 95 degrees (I really debated on setting to 110, but decided cooler is better here in the tropics). Most places the temperatures range from 86F to 93F, but where I live in the mountains, it is ranges more like 60F early morning, to 90F in the day - all year round. I am going to fill it and wondered if maybe someone could shed a little light on your findings on the filling process.
As I read through the volumes of info it seems two methods are used - Aussie and "to the bottom of the drive plate" as described 559 posts ago in #5. With 10K oil in an old style blue hub, with a turbo charged-prone-to-cracked-heads engine in the tropics, would you recommend filling it more, or staying with the #5 method? Thanks guys! Oh yeah, and do you say about 35ml is the amount required after a complete draining?
I found some of the OFNA 10K oil on Amazon.com and will have it in a few days. I've set the valve on the fan to 95 degrees (I really debated on setting to 110, but decided cooler is better here in the tropics). Most places the temperatures range from 86F to 93F, but where I live in the mountains, it is ranges more like 60F early morning, to 90F in the day - all year round. I am going to fill it and wondered if maybe someone could shed a little light on your findings on the filling process.
As I read through the volumes of info it seems two methods are used - Aussie and "to the bottom of the drive plate" as described 559 posts ago in #5. With 10K oil in an old style blue hub, with a turbo charged-prone-to-cracked-heads engine in the tropics, would you recommend filling it more, or staying with the #5 method? Thanks guys! Oh yeah, and do you say about 35ml is the amount required after a complete draining?
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you need to be careful not to over fill the clutch, too much oil and it will be on all the time. The aussie fill was a different clutch all together. I put in 35ml on a fully drained clutch. I'd stick to that amount.
IIRC I used 10K OFNA diff oil and it had ml marked on the bottle. When I did the clutches on both 80's I used exactly 35 ml and haven't had any cooling probs.
alia176
SILVER Star
Thanks guys. Since it is so easy to do (especially since I have a backup now) I decided to try just under 4 tubes of the local brew. It is Denso brand with PN 046964-0010 and comes in 9ml tubes @ $1.50US for each. It simply says SILICONOIL in a red and yellow box. The rest of the writing is Japanese. I have no idea what weight it is, but the -0010 in the part number makes me suspect a 10K weight. It is abundantly available at almost every parts seller here no matter how small their road-side shop is. Filipinos are all about making their stuff survive and don't just throw it away like us Americans. I guess that's why they are all well aware of the need to replace the fluid in their viscous clutches. Though, apparently not aware that there are different weights required for different clutches. Maybe that is why so many of the trucks are overheated on the side of the road coming up the mountains. Oh well, you win some you lose some.
When I get the OFNA 10K stuff I'll drain the clutch and compare them. It would be great if this stuff was a heavy enough oil to do the trick. So far it seems adequate, but I have to make the drive down and up the mountain to know for sure. Maybe in a couple weeks I'll be able to give it a proper test. Thanks for the replies guys, that was a big help.
When I get the OFNA 10K stuff I'll drain the clutch and compare them. It would be great if this stuff was a heavy enough oil to do the trick. So far it seems adequate, but I have to make the drive down and up the mountain to know for sure. Maybe in a couple weeks I'll be able to give it a proper test. Thanks for the replies guys, that was a big help.
TJ96TLC
SILVER Star
Background...
I have the RT original temp mod and have had some issues since a recent flush at the dealership. I re-flushed 3 times, new OEM tstat, New KOYO radiator, new hoses, and new rad cap. BTW, the old radiator had dirt dobber nests in the fins, it was nasty. I'm still having issues. The fan clutch is my last hope of lowering the temp. Looks like the clutch has been off before, the nuts are semi-rounded. Even druing a 40deg ambiant, I am still getting the higher temps after freeway driving. I spend my time in middle Alabama. Truck has 95k miles on it. The picture shows my highest temp.
Question...
What oil would work for me with a new blue clutch in the southeast conditions?
I have the RT original temp mod and have had some issues since a recent flush at the dealership. I re-flushed 3 times, new OEM tstat, New KOYO radiator, new hoses, and new rad cap. BTW, the old radiator had dirt dobber nests in the fins, it was nasty. I'm still having issues. The fan clutch is my last hope of lowering the temp. Looks like the clutch has been off before, the nuts are semi-rounded. Even druing a 40deg ambiant, I am still getting the higher temps after freeway driving. I spend my time in middle Alabama. Truck has 95k miles on it. The picture shows my highest temp.
Question...
What oil would work for me with a new blue clutch in the southeast conditions?
I thought 10k was overkill so I tried 7K fluid first. Didn't see any difference between it and the stock blue hub fluid. Stepped up to 10K fluid and wow you could hear and feel the fan blowing a lot more air. I was impressed and decided to do the same to my wife's LX. So my recommendation would be 10K fluid.
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Are you sure there is a problem? It's normal for the temp to very, temporary temp spikes after after operating the motor loaded are normal, sustained high temps are not normal. This is why the stock gauge is dampened, so drivers don't freak when seeing a temp spike.
Is it a stock type clutch or aftermarket? If stock Aisin/Eaton, I would refill with 10K and see how that works. The stock clutches are very durable, unless rusted I would expect it to be in great condition with only ~95K mi.
If you move to the blue hub, I would step up more on the viscosity, 15K? In my experience they don't respond as well to viscosity increase, takes higher viscosity to get the same drive as the earlier clutches.
I don't have any experience in your climate, so depending on how hard you load the motor, the summer high temp, A/C load, etc, may need more or less.
TJ96TLC
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I dont know if its normal or not. It wasn't doing the spike thing prior to the first flush. I may try to change the fluid. Thing is, right now, I can't get one of the nuts off the pulley. Guess a nut splitter may be in order. The clutch is not rusted. I might try the higher viscosity fluid.
TJ96TLC
SILVER Star
Assuming my clutch is the original, should I try 10k first, or go with something in the middle such as 6-7k?? Should I do oil first, see results, and then timing if I need to??
What exactly is early or late blue models? What am I looking for when looking for a "early clutch"?
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To a large extent it dosen't matter, they are no longer available, the only way is used. The new one is a good clutch, just requires higher viscosity fluid to have the same performance.
The first pic is the new style, notice the sheet metal thermostat spring holder and cooling fins don't go all of the way around.
The second pic is the early blue and black hub. The fins go all of the way around and has a cast spring holder.
The third is the Eaton. Has a ring around the fins, cast spring holder and has 4 torx head screws.
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If it's original, my guess is Eaton, they are the most common. Some '93-94s had the black hub. The early blue is a dealer replacement from the late '90's, very rare.
TJ96TLC
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Cool, where would be the best place to get the oil? I would like to try some 8K first, assuming my clutch is original.
TJ96TLC
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Its off, and its the Eaton. No adjuster screws inside though?? I plan on draining and refilling with 10k. Any thoughts??
