Blown HG or......?

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CruiserStuff said:
I don't do fix-a-flat, radiator leak stop, etc, so "miracle-head-gasket-fixer" is out of the question. There is the right way and there are the other ways....I try to always do it the right way. :meh: I do, however, love duct tape.....:hillbilly:
Click to expand...

I do not know if you are aware that the head gasket only goes on one way correctly. It can be installed upside down which will cover the oiling port. It may sound silly to talk about, however, many a mechanic has installed the 2F head gasket the wrong way.
 
So, a year has gone by and I'm finally at the point where the head HAS to come off. I was able to plow the last few storms last season, drive the truck all year and plow one storm this year before a HUGE cloud of white smoke started pouring from the tailpipe.

So, I took a trip to Burbank on Saturday and picked this beauty up from Mark's:

5445308331_494c0fc5ca_z.jpg


I have an OEM head gasket and the Ramflex gasket set ready to go and I've been spraying PB Blaster on some of the bolts over the last few days in preparation.

I have the auto parts store hunting for a 13mm x 1.75 headbolt tap to chase the threads before I reassemble everything.

Am I missing anything or is it time to get dirty?
 
Thermostat gaskets, maybe a waterpump gasket...
 
Thanks Pighead.....good call - I'll pick those up this morning.

Yesterday I spent 3 hours disassembling everything. It went very smoothly - no broken bolts and very little blood spilled. I attribute the lack of broken bolts to 2 things: 1) I used PB Blaster on as many bolts/nuts as I could starting a week before I dug in and 2) the engine had been replaced 2 years ago and so there wasn't 35 years of rust and corrosion holding things together. But, for whatever reason(s), everything came apart very easily. :clap::bounce:;p

Here's the starting point with everything still on except the air cleaner assembly:
5447939779_18856055bb_z.jpg

Just FYI, this is a '76 FJ40 with a 3/79 2F engine.....

Here's my custom keep-it-out-of-the-way bracket for the carb:
5447939575_a3eb0e1315_z.jpg


Here we are with everything removed except the head bolts:
5448546628_bd7bdce62a_z.jpg


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Here's the manifolds, and rocker assembly:
5448546038_f922343968_z.jpg


And pushrods in order/position removed:
5447964653_fce109722d_z.jpg


The thermostat and manifolds had lots of black RTV used as gasket/sealer....yuck. They'll be replaced with the correct materials.

The head gasket came off in one piece and stuck to the head when we removed it, which was very nice. I have to pull a couple studs off it this morning and then clean up the block face.

Take a look at this pic and let me know what you think....is there noticeable head gasket failure? I don't see any cracks but, honestly, haven't had time to study it too closely:
5448571518_9bcdb8247f_z.jpg


So, hopeful to have it all reassembled today. Snow in the forecast for tomorrow, so we'll see how it goes.......
 
hey i had my head off of my f engine when i had it . if you need a hand with anything let me know im always around.
 
I'm looking at the teardrop shaped watermark in the gasket across from the rocker feed passage. That and the blackened area on the gasket separating cylinders 4 and 5.

Greg, based on that blackened mark, I think you should stop and put a straight edge across the block to check between cylinders 2 and 3, as well as between 4 and 5.

Best

Mark A.
 
Done.....I think.....after spending 4 hours yesterday and another 9 or 10 today. I haven't fired it up yet (dead battery), but will do so tomorrow morning.

Went very smoothly.....spent the morning transferring everything over to the new head (including new Denso spark plugs), scraping and wire-wheeling the block face and the manifold faces, and chasing the head bolt threads with the tap (that arrived right around luch time). Here are some pics:

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Placed the head gasket in position (double and triple checked to make sure it was correct), set the head in place and replaced the head bolts (torquing them in 3 stages of 30, 60 and 90 pounds and in the sequence shown in the FSM)

5449749759_efb9f4108f_z.jpg


5450359036_741057434a_z.jpg


Check out the accumulated "milkshake" in the rocker cover:

5449749857_7e763f4374_z.jpg


Got the rocker assembly back into place before dinner, but finished everything up this evening. Had a bit of trouble getting the manifolds back in place (using the Remflex gasket), but I finally got it. Here's the finished product:

5449758099_90ae1b7d7f_z.jpg


5449758009_d20f76f3b0_z.jpg


5449757909_34c0288323_z.jpg


So, Lord willing, it will fire up tomorrow. I'll change the oil and filter and top-off the radiator and that should take care of it.....
 
Mark - Thanks for the advice. I didn't see your post, though, until after I had it all buttoned back up. Unfortunately, I'm racing against the clock and snow is on the way.....if I had more time, I would have done as you suggested. I may be doing this whole process over if, in fact, the block is warped and/or cracked......

UPDATE: After adjusting the valves, the truck fired up and I see no evidence of leaks anywhere. Adjusted the timing a bit and put it all back together. Driving it home, it seemed okay, but I wasn't pushing it at all. Time will tell. I'll do a compression test soon and will report back.....
 
I had the same exact symptoms a few years ago after I made the mistake of losening two head bolts when installing my saginaw steering pump bracket. I removed the head had it rebuilt and reinstalled. The bubbling in the over flow stopped but had alot of oil in my overflow tank. When I put it back together I smelt the rotten egg smell and figured I still had an issue and removed the head two more times before I realized that the egg smell was from a fried optima red top.

I tried to clean out the oil from the over flow and radiator as best as I could but it is still has a nice layer of sluge lining the bottle and in the top end of the rad. At this point not sure if it is risidual oil that was in the radiator and is just floating to the top or if I have a crack in the block or head....a littl elbow grease and time will tell

Good luck hope your back up and running soon.
 
calsum2 - Fortunately, I was getting combustion gasses in the radiator, but no oil......just bubbles.

Truck is running okay......I can tell it needs some fine tuning. After I plow this snow storm (Lord willing) I will pull the rocker assembly again and retorque the head bolts. Then I'll do a thorough valve adjustment. Also need to dial in the timing....

Weird thing, though. Yesterday, driving home from work, I noticed that if I mashed the gas pedal down and opened up the engine (or when under load going up a steep hill), the gas gauge would drop to nothing (it has a full tank). When I let off the gas (or was just cruising), the needle would rise to the full level again. Anyone have that happen to them?
 
Good news....plowed 9 hours straight last night with no problems....well, related to the engine anyway....my windshield wipers froze solid and fell off, though :)

I know I need to do some adjustments.....for lack of a better term, the sound of the engine is "throatier" and "growls" more than it did before the gasket/head change over. Also seems that power on the high end is lacking and I get some minor hesitation at high RPM's....feels like the engine's either not getting enough air or fuel....one of the two (accelerator pump?).
 
Good news!!!! wipers i didn't know they wipers on a 40:)
 
Maybe readjust your valve clearance.

John
 
Question: Ever since replacing the head/gaskets, I've been having problems with my fuel and temp gauges. Sometimes they worked. Sometimes they didn't. Under heavy load (going up a hill with gas mashed to the floor), the gauges would die. Once off the uphill, they'd return to normal. Now, they don't work at all....ever.

Researching it here, I found a post that said you should not use teflon tape on the temp sending units because they need a solid ground. Is that true? If so, I need to go back and remove the teflon tape I used.

5500212270_2d62050c05_z.jpg


I think I'll start by checking the fuse and the various connections. Anything else you guys can think of to check?
 
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