bjowett
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The diesel radiator (same core as gas) w/ expansion/separation tank is an excellent upgrade. Agree, deaerating the coolant and pulling steam off the upper header tank will pay off.
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Any thoughts on whether this is worth pursuing for people already deep into their engine life? I assume the cost of getting those parts into the US is somewhat significant. And yes, an engine is a lot more, but would it make a substantive difference on a vehicle with 150k? (just to pull a number out of thin air)The diesel radiator (same core as gas) w/ expansion/separation tank is an excellent upgrade. Agree, deaerating the coolant and pulling steam off the upper header tank will pay off.
Any thoughts on whether this is worth pursuing for people already deep into their engine life? I assume the cost of getting those parts into the US is somewhat significant. And yes, an engine is a lot more, but would it make a substantive difference on a vehicle with 150k? (just to pull a number out of thin air)
Be great to hear about history of this 2014 engine. i.e Coolant system services, coolant leaks, low coolant, clogged radiator fins, low coolant, running hot, overheating, ect..?Had a headgasket issue on my 14 with 240k . Started with a misfire on number 8.
epends on the how the truck was treated. Right now is not a great time to
I’d have to look back at the carfax for service I got it with a bunch. I’m just glad I did some research and didn’t keep driving. Everyone said it’s unlikely but seems a lot of people run into itBe great to hear about history of this 2014 engine. i.e Coolant system services, coolant leaks, low coolant, clogged radiator fins, low coolant, running hot, overheating, ect..?
Any picture of gasket, #8 cylinder, piston top, valves, ect..?
Thanks, for pictures. I see, what looks to be coolant leak at heat exchange (Valley plate). A Minor leak. But low coolant level is on now on the table as a consideration.I’d have to look back at the carfax for service I got it with a bunch. I’m just glad I did some research and didn’t keep driving. Everyone said it’s unlikely but seems a lot of people run into it
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No, I had a toyota store do it. What sucks is I had the timing cover resealed and 300 miles later . Kapowie. that’s actually part of a rats nest, It was losing coolant into the cylinder but from what i recall the technician said no leaks around the valley plate. Luckily I was only paying 60 bucks an hour laborThanks, for pictures. I see do see what looks to be coolant leak at heat exchange (Valley plate). A Minor leak. But low coolant level is on now on the table as a consideration.
Old dried coolant color, seems off. More of an orange then the Toyota pink crusty, or is it just picture lighting?
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It be great to see what you find in carfax service history. Keep in mind, you can also use either Toyota or Lexus owners web portal. With you VIN #, you pull service history from Dealerships.
Did you pull the heads yourself?
Do you have list for the required part numbers? Is it 1640051051 (instead of 1640050380 or 1640050381 or 1640050382 or 1640050384)? Have you done this? Might be the way to go for those replacing a radiator anyways.The diesel radiator (same core as gas) w/ expansion/separation tank is an excellent upgrade. Agree, deaerating the coolant and pulling steam off the upper header tank will pay off.
From what I've seen. The redesign of heater Tee hoses and the coolant expansion tank, in the 200 series. Does a good job at self burping air from system. Unlike the 100 series, which takes special care. But in either, what is so important. We must check coolant level in radiator under cap, not just in reservoir.The diesel radiator (same core as gas) w/ expansion/separation tank is an excellent upgrade. Agree, deaerating the coolant and pulling steam off the upper header tank will pay off.
Yes, I installed one on my 200, there is some info my old build thread. That is the correct number for the radiator. You will also need the degas tank and and a Tee to connect the tank outlet to the lower radiator hose. The Tee might(?) be part # 16577-31060 and the tank with hoses is 16470-51020. The stock shroud can be trimmed to accept the tank, or purchase the diesel version. You will also need some additional clamps and small bits.Do you have list for the required part numbers? Is it 1640051051 (instead of 1640050380 or 1640050381 or 1640050382 or 1640050384)? Have you done this? Might be the way to go for those replacing a radiator anyways. The expansion tank is
From what I've seen. The redesign of heater Tee hoses and the coolant expansion tank, in the 200 series. Does a good job at self burping air from system. Unlike the 100 series, which takes special care. But in either, what is so important. We must check coolant level in radiator under cap, not just in reservoir.
In the 100 series. It takes me 2 to 3 heating and cooling cycles to burp the air out. I must add coolant to radiator. As little as ~1"+ air in radiator top, expansion tank just doesn't get to out.
In the 200 series, I can usually nail burping, in one cycle. Only needing to add to resevoir.
Are you or is the forum, seeing air in radiator. After burping with a full reservoir?
Oh sorry @OGBeno , I should have stated question!Sorry. Haven’t read the entire thread.
What’s the actual question?
What about it changed? The part numbers for the drivers side bank are consistent from 08-21, the passenger side only changes in 2017.
I believe the part number changed from
11115-38020 to 11115-38021 for passenger after 2013. The drivers side stayed consistent with 11116-3801.
I believe it was just Toyota’s updated specifications for improved durability and performance. Do not know any material or size differences though.
That change happened in 2017 per the diagrams I have access to.
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If mine are incorrect it would answer some questions.. but generally they are spot on.
With how many 5.7 tundras are out there and how many people on this board are keyed into the issue, if it were a problem on that platform I feel like we'd hear about it.
I did just have another thought on the platform differences.. in the Tundra the top of the radiator sits significantly higher than the engine, as compared to the 200. This would give any air trapped in the system a place to collect that isn't in the cylinder head...
I do seem to remember @bjowett retrofitted a 1VD radiator fan shroud that incorporated a pressurized overflow/separation tank, vs our atmospheric one. That would pose significant advantages in cooling over the life of the vehicle. I wonder if air separation is a factor here. Though it wouldn't explain the seeming frequency of 2013 MY failures.
This whole thing stinks like fish. Head gasket failures on these trucks are super rare. Combine an oil change and spark plugs service a week before it fails and i’m betting it’s dealer error.
They don't use quarts anymore all octopus with many different fluids, maybe teck grabbed wrong one by mistake realized it and changed but didn't drain. Just guessing, shouldn't have this issue.This whole thing stinks like fish. Head gasket failures on these trucks are super rare. Combine an oil change and spark plugs service a week before it fails and i’m betting it’s dealer error.
So are you doing this experiment?Hypothesis time. Possibly another piece of this puzzle is the plastic coolant jacket spacer. Toyota installs these to keep the bore temperature even, they help with emissions, mpg, and probably cylinder wear.
From the SAE Paper 4/2005
“For reduction of fuel consumption, a new device “Water Jacket Spacer” which improves temperature distribution of a cylinder block bore wall was developed. In the case of a conventional cylinder block, coolant flow concentrates at the bottom and middle region of the water jacket. While temperature of the upper bore wall is high (due to high-temperature combustion gas) the temperature of the lower bore wall is low, since its only function is to support the piston. When the developed spacer is inserted into a water jacket, the coolant flow concentrates at the upper part of the jacket. As a result, cooling ability to the upper bore wall was improved and temperature of lower bore wall was increased, thereby reducing fuel consumption.”
In many of Toyota’s open deck applications where these are utilized, the upper portion of the spacer is open equally around the entire perimeter of cylinders, with the odd piece to direct flow or prevent a cool spot.
Here is the 2GR FKS.
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Now with the 3UR (and all others in the UR Series) the jacket covers almost the entirety of the intake side of the sleeve. There is roughly .25” of space between this jacket and the head, thus keeping the intake side of the cylinder warmer. The exhaust side is open.
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This also blocks/slows entry of the coolant into tiny cross drilled coolant passages that run between cylinders. Where this passage meets to head gasket/head is where the UR blows the gasket. There are two things listed as causing an MLS gasket to have the rubber delaminate, inappropriate coolant type (perhaps acidic falls under this), and running hot/overheating. Perhaps we have a hot spot(s) here due to the jacket?
This possibility stems from researching Supercharged 3UR engine failures. When they blow the ring lands, it’s always on the intake side right where this jacket slows coolant flow and insulates the bore. They either detonate here, or the ring gap is too small (not enough heat removal and running out room to expand, they butt up and pop!). That’s a hypothesis, too.
Anyway, if we look at the coolant jacket, it’s molded in a way where it looks as though the extra blocking is added on to the intake side. The seam mirrors the opening on the exhaust side.
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The between cylinders cross drilled coolant entry points sit just above where these nubs are located on the jacket. Either holes drilled here, or removal of the material outlined by the seam, will provide a direct fresh coolant supply from valley distribution points. More durability, but also more emissions.
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Hopefully this leads to something, worst case is it goes to the scrap bin.