Builds Blender, My LX450/FZJ80 + FJ45esk + GM + Land Rover crazy concoction (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mieser
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pistonpete
SILVER Star
AMAZING WORK !!! LOVE IT !!
- Thread starter
- #543
Tonights fun.......back on the scales.....
2100 Front ( 1060 Drivers, 1040 Passengers
1640 Rear ( 820 Drivers, 820 Passengers
3740 Total
This isn't a final weight, but should be pretty close. It looks like I might SQUEAK in at 3XXXlbs when it is driveable. With people, fuel, tools, spares, etc it will be 4500 pretty easy.
Front end is 640lbs unsprung from previous measurements
Rear end is 620lbs unsprung from previous measurements
Front sprung is now 1460lbs
Rear sprung is now 1000lbs
I am liking the front to rear bias other than it is going to make the rear springs a big question again.
2100 Front ( 1060 Drivers, 1040 Passengers
1640 Rear ( 820 Drivers, 820 Passengers
3740 Total
This isn't a final weight, but should be pretty close. It looks like I might SQUEAK in at 3XXXlbs when it is driveable. With people, fuel, tools, spares, etc it will be 4500 pretty easy.
Front end is 640lbs unsprung from previous measurements
Rear end is 620lbs unsprung from previous measurements
Front sprung is now 1460lbs
Rear sprung is now 1000lbs
I am liking the front to rear bias other than it is going to make the rear springs a big question again.
- Thread starter
- #544
A big day today.
I was finally able to roll this thing outside into the sunlight for the first time! This is one of my favorite times in a build. It is really awesome to be able to get more than a few feet away from it for the 1st time.
I pulled me up a chair and just stared at it for a bit.
This thing kinda ended up like my flat fender. It just doesn't scale well in pictures to my eye, you just have to see it in person. I like it. I really like it. The tires look silly huge. This thing does have a different scale to it. There is about 21.5" under the belly and 26" under the rockers. Overall width is just about 80" wide. There isn't much past the tires, but the wheelbase is 112". This thing is gonna be tons of fun! I still have a bit of weight to add, but right now it has just over 6" uptravel in front, 5" on the rear suspension, and will have a 10.6/10.1 travel shocks. This thing is going to be a bucket of fun!
Now to clean and reorgainize the shop for the shell game that is the tear-down phase....
I was finally able to roll this thing outside into the sunlight for the first time! This is one of my favorite times in a build. It is really awesome to be able to get more than a few feet away from it for the 1st time.
I pulled me up a chair and just stared at it for a bit.
This thing kinda ended up like my flat fender. It just doesn't scale well in pictures to my eye, you just have to see it in person. I like it. I really like it. The tires look silly huge. This thing does have a different scale to it. There is about 21.5" under the belly and 26" under the rockers. Overall width is just about 80" wide. There isn't much past the tires, but the wheelbase is 112". This thing is gonna be tons of fun! I still have a bit of weight to add, but right now it has just over 6" uptravel in front, 5" on the rear suspension, and will have a 10.6/10.1 travel shocks. This thing is going to be a bucket of fun!
Now to clean and reorgainize the shop for the shell game that is the tear-down phase....
That is AWESOME!! Can't wait to see it out on the trails!!
That's flipping awesome!!
- Thread starter
- #548
Ok, I relent. After spending a bit too much time looking at the high pinion FZJ80 front diff in the #LX45, I just can't really fit the air locker Elocker conversion I want. I am sure with a few weeks to kill I could figure it out, but I don't have that much time now. So watchers, I need an education on how to wire the factory Elocker. I'd like it to be simple. I'd like it to use an old fashion switch if possible. I guess it would be nice to have the indicators work for lock-locking-unlock if I am going to do it. It would be nice if all this was contained in the switch somehow. Diagrams appreciated. I have all the factory plugs and tails for the front and rear Elockers from the host chassis/body.
Ok, I relent. After spending a bit too much time looking at the high pinion FZJ80 front diff in the #LX45, I just can't really fit the air locker Elocker conversion I want. I am sure with a few weeks to kill I could figure it out, but I don't have that much time now. So watchers, I need an education on how to wire the factory Elocker. I'd like it to be simple. I'd like it to use an old fashion switch if possible. I guess it would be nice to have the indicators work for lock-locking-unlock if I am going to do it. It would be nice if all this was contained in the switch somehow. Diagrams appreciated. I have all the factory plugs and tails for the front and rear Elockers from the host chassis/body.
Factory lockers are SLOW to engage/disengage!
Have you considered Harrop eLocker? They are quick, positive and fit 80series front thirds.
I'm gonna cross post from one of my fellow club members here. The link is bad, but maybe another lead for you...
@Stevesnj said: "So searching around i found this site. They make air actuators for 80 series rigs. I built my own rear actuator from a DIY on the main forum then i came across this. I'm skeptical about the Russia thing but it is kind of out of the ordinary product to scam someone on. I'm thinking about pulling the trigger for the front since the front actuator motor went out a few days after the rear. This is all set ready to go and they have kits also. For $120 + $60 shipping - it seems too good to be true and need the opinion from you all on what you think about this. Legit? or Scam?
Differential parts, ring & pinions and air lockers "
Tank5
SILVER Star
I used a Slee elocker control box and an original elocker switch out of a tacoma to wire mine up. I purchased a wire harness with correct plug from 12volt guy I think he is called. Seems to be working just fine.
Sorry I didn't include links it is harder to do on my phone.
Sorry I didn't include links it is harder to do on my phone.
2fpower
SILVER Star
There is a guy that did air lockers on the 80 forum. pretty sure it was @toyotaaddict83
Market test: Factory E-locker to pneumatic replacement
Market test: Factory E-locker to pneumatic replacement
2fpower
SILVER Star
few more theads to look at. A12005SN | Pneumatic Air Cylinder: non-repairable, 3/4in bore, 1/2in stroke (PN# A12005SN) | AutomationDirect
looks like @Camino was the poster, not active now....
Elocker to air conversion thread
looks like @Camino was the poster, not active now....
Elocker to air conversion thread
People seem to love or hate the Toyota e-lockers.
I can't really fault them from my experience. They have ALWAYS engaged when needed, if they didn't engage, they probably weren't needed.
I retro fitted a set from my old 80 I parted out into another landcruiser and built my own control circuit using relays, and double throw momentary rocker switches. The OEM locker position switch triggers a light when the locker is engaged.
I used the CDL as a master switch to power up the locker relays. I set mine up so the front, or rear can be selected independently of each other.
Google search "e-locker control wiring" or similar.
There's several good circuit diagrams the same as what I used floating around the internets.
If you appreciate wiring as something more than colored spaghetti, then it's not a hard job.
I can't really fault them from my experience. They have ALWAYS engaged when needed, if they didn't engage, they probably weren't needed.
I retro fitted a set from my old 80 I parted out into another landcruiser and built my own control circuit using relays, and double throw momentary rocker switches. The OEM locker position switch triggers a light when the locker is engaged.
I used the CDL as a master switch to power up the locker relays. I set mine up so the front, or rear can be selected independently of each other.
Google search "e-locker control wiring" or similar.
There's several good circuit diagrams the same as what I used floating around the internets.
If you appreciate wiring as something more than colored spaghetti, then it's not a hard job.
- Thread starter
- #554
I already have the elocker 3rd in this chassis. I don't want to buy another locker. I'm not a huge fan of the eaton style elocker with the ramp/ramp mechanism that can unlock changing directions. Those Russian air cylinders are close to what I want to build. I think event that small cylinder will be a tight fit on the radius arm mount in front.
I am going to stick with the factory elocker system for now, but I need to figure out the wiring...
- Thread starter
- #555
Thanks for the links. I have read most of the air conversion info that is out there. The issue is that the REAR is pretty well documented and easy, but the front is a pain in the rear. You basically have to use the rail cover position in front that points directly at the radius arm mount. This makes things VERY tight. I think I could get it to work with enough time, but I don't want to chase rabbits right now. I am trying to make a push to have this thing running for EJS in 7 weeks or so.
- Thread starter
- #556
Yup, LOTS of diagrams floating around out there. Some look better than others. Some use relays. Some want like 10 relays!
So far a heavy duty Carling 10-pin switch is winning, either in on-off-on or (on)-off-(on) with two independent lights.
I'd like to be able to match all the switches on the dash into a gang also. I need 3 lockers, OBA, and suckdown winch I think. I can us the OBA switch as the arm switch for the locker circuits easy enough I think.
Ok, I relent. After spending a bit too much time looking at the high pinion FZJ80 front diff in the #LX45, I just can't really fit the air locker Elocker conversion I want. I am sure with a few weeks to kill I could figure it out, but I don't have that much time now. So watchers, I need an education on how to wire the factory Elocker. I'd like it to be simple. I'd like it to use an old fashion switch if possible. I guess it would be nice to have the indicators work for lock-locking-unlock if I am going to do it. It would be nice if all this was contained in the switch somehow. Diagrams appreciated. I have all the factory plugs and tails for the front and rear Elockers from the host chassis/body.
Here you go. I did this on my truck many moons ago when I had FZJ80 elockers. I only wired the rear (9.5" diffs in my 60) but the front should be identical if my memory is correct. No relays, just one DPDT switch per locker, and a harness, fully functioning limits in both directions and a LED that turns on when the locker is locked. All of this is leveraging the factory sensors and actuator on the diff. I made the harness myself, bought the switch panel from 12voltguy.
ROTW: Moonshine - direct link to post showing elocker wiring with diagrams.
- Thread starter
- #558
For clarity, you used a constant dpdt switch not momentary? I have seen it both ways now.
Correct, constant. I think the momentary switch setups used relays, which I didn't want in my setup.
Makes perfect sense! Wish I'd seen this method before setting up relays.
The actuators have travel limits built in, so the relay method is not needed at all.
I guess your switch and wiring would need to be suitable for full load current draw of the actuator.
