Elocker to air conversion thread (1 Viewer)

[Camino]

Well... I am halfway there! My air cylinder works perfect (I ran it on my garage compressor until I get the onboard plumbing done).
I made a cover plate from scrap 3/16 aluminum plate, and a 14 mm shaft from a 9/16 inch grade 8 bolt. I drilled and tapped the bolt lengthwise to fit the 1/4 NF threads on the air cylinder shaft, I then installed the unit and marked the hole for the shift fork, then drilled and tapped it to 1/4 NC for a standard 1/4 bolt.

I purchased a 3 inch long 3/4 inch bore air cylinder from http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...Cylinders_(A-Series)/3-z-4_inch_Bore/A12005SN for $11.50. It has a 1/2 inch stroke. The stock locked/light switch works perfect, and now I will shop for the beverage tank, switch, solinoid and misc fittings to complete the job! L.B.

 

[DudeAbides]

Thank you for documenting this. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.

More pics please!

 

[Camino]

I will take more pics when I take it apart to locktite and seal it. I just ordered a 10 lb tank and adjustable regulator for $116!

 

[Squash]

You know VW used the spare tire as pressure for windshield washers?
Makes a simple trail fix as well.

 

[Camino]

40 years ago I built vw based desert buggies. Never saw or heard of a hose coming out of the spare into the winshield washer. But, thanx for the tip.

 

[retrofive]

You know VW used the spare tire as pressure for windshield washers?
Makes a simple trail fix as well.

40 years ago I built vw based desert buggies. Never saw or heard of a hose coming out of the spare into the winshield washer. But, thanx for the tip.

Two of my past Ghias had all that. I always got a chuckle when showing friends.

 

[86tuning]

My old VW-Porsche 914 had that too. And the hoses to the washer switch would leak fluid all over my knees when they popped off.

 

[retrofive]

My old VW-Porsche 914 had that too. And the hoses to the washer switch would leak fluid all over my knees when they popped off.

lol last OT comment, yep my 914 now that I think about was the same, just was missing most the everything to make it function.

 

[Kjartanbj]

Nice that this is going so well for you, works great in my car and is alot cheaper than buying a new elocker actuator when you're finished you have to post up a detailed howto for others here

 

[Kjartanbj]

any news?

 

[Camino]

I am waiting for parts to arrive. I ordered a 10# aluminum CO2 tank, a 3 way 12 volt solinoid, a viair regulator, a safety valve and quick disconnect air hose fittings. Once mounted, I will be able to activate the locker from dash switch, and plug in air hose with quick disconnect for air tools and airing up tires>
so far:
air cylinder $11.50
CO2 tank $69.00
regulator $29.00
solinoid $31.00
dash switch $18.00
misc parts $30.00
shipping and tax $45.00

Total $233.50

The dash switch has an independent light so regardless weather or not the switch is on, the light will work off of the stock lock/switch on diff. Once I remove the unit from the truck (to seal and locktight it), I will take detailed pics of installation.

 

[Kjartanbj]

For someone that already has onboard air this will be even cheaper to install

 

[Camino]

If you already have onboard air, and you can fab these parts yourself, This is about a $30.00 conversion (air cylinder, bolt, permetex and small piece of aluminum plate). I'm only going the CO2 tank route because it is cheaper and has enough power to run air tools. An extra CO2 tank is only $90.00 shipped if you plan on extended air tool use. The viair system that is constant duty is about $500.00. If the pump breaks after 2 years, it costs over $300.00 to replace. With CO2 there is no pump. ;p L.B.

 

[FastCarGuy]

I am waiting for parts to arrive. I ordered a 10# aluminum CO2 tank, a 3 way 12 volt solinoid, a viair regulator, a safety valve and quick disconnect air hose fittings. Once mounted, I will be able to activate the locker from dash switch, and plug in air hose with quick disconnect for air tools and airing up tires>
so far:
air cylinder $11.50
CO2 tank $69.00
regulator $29.00
solinoid $31.00
dash switch $18.00
misc parts $30.00
shipping and tax $45.00

Total $233.50

The dash switch has an independent light so regardless weather or not the switch is on, the light will work off of the stock lock/switch on diff. Once I remove the unit from the truck (to seal and locktight it), I will take detailed pics of installation. [/QUOTE

Considering I paid ~$700. a year ago for a new factory unit when mine shorted out, this is a great fix. Thanks for posting!

 

[Fast Eddy]

I see that air pressure locks it. What unlocks it?

You didn't have to turn down the bolt at all? Is it going to be completely waterproof?

You could actually do this with a tiny CO2 cartridge from a pellet gun.

The e-locker in my stock-height '78 interferes with the oil pan. It's currently fixed with lowered bump stops. I've always thought to replace the big motor with a linear actuator.

 

[jcardona1]

Interesting! Looking forward to see how it all works. Would it be just as easy, or easier, to convert the locker into cable-actuated? I remember seeing cable conversion kit for the 80 but it was $$$$$$! I would think it'd be fairly easy to DIY...

 

[alia176]

I see that air pressure locks it. What unlocks it?

You didn't have to turn down the bolt at all? Is it going to be completely waterproof?

You could actually do this with a tiny CO2 cartridge from a pellet gun.

The e-locker in my stock-height '78 interferes with the oil pan. It's currently fixed with lowered bump stops. I've always thought to replace the big motor with a linear actuator.

My guess is that he is using a spring return air cylinder but I'm not sure. Spring return = normally unlocked position, air on = locked position.

The cool thing is that you guys with the OEM system can merry this into your system. Turn the knob, this cylinder gets actuated, locker engaged limit switch is tripped, power to the cylinder cuts off. Same thing in the unlocking scenario.

edit: yup, looked up his link

"NITRA pneumatic air cylinder, non-repairable, round body, 3/4 inch bore, 1/2 inch stroke, 1/8 inch NPT port, single acting, spring return, front nose mount, interchangeable with other brands; (1) AN-12-20 mounting nut included. For front nose mounting, order (1) AMB-5 mounting bracket separately. "

 

[Kjartanbj]

Yes it's spring loaded , I have the exact same install in mine where he got the idea from, have used it now for 4 months and it works like a charm, connected to my onboard air system which I use also for airing up tires

My setup

 

[MYSHERPA]

I love this idea. My actuator is completely froze up and unable to be fixed, so I think I also want to try this route. I don't know about putting locktite on it though. I just had to cut my actuator off today even after soaking the bolts in PB for a few hours. In fact, I was thinking of putting anti-seize on the threads this time. I think I'll use stainless bolts on the next install too.

I will take more pics when I take it apart to locktite and seal it. I just ordered a 10 lb tank and adjustable regulator for $116!

 

[Camino]

Yeah, the air cylinder is spring return. The stock limit switch (mounted to the carrier), is now only used to trigger a locked/unlocked indicator light (in the lighted rear locker switch) . When the shift fork engages. The stock limit switch does not limit anything.
When the new dash rear locker switch is turned on, the 12volt valve/solinoid opens and regulated air fills the air cylinder. That pushes the shift fork. When the wheel spins to the correct position, the shift fork engages, the diff locks and the indicator light in the dash rear locker switch comes on. When the dash rear locker switch is turned off, the solinoid closes and the return spring pushes the tiny piston back to it's resting position, and the air in the cylinder vents back thru it's hose (and out the solinoid/valve exhaust vent).
Then, the shift fork disengages and the rear locker switch light goes out (to indicate that you are unlocked).
I did have to turn down the end of the bolt/shaft, only because I used a cheap drill press to drill the shaft center and my hole was not perfectly straight (a machine shop would make a perfectly straight shaft. I put permetex gasket in between the stock limit switch (and new air accuator/aluminum plate) and the carrier to seal it. I used locktite gel only on the 1/4 NC bolt that connects the new shaft to the shift fork (don't want it to work loose inside the carrier).
Yesterday we sealed and installed the new accuator and the limit switch. We ran the limit switch wires to the dash rear locker switch for the indicator light.
Then we got caught up fabricating a bracket to hold the CO2 tank to the rear roll bar (we could have bought one, but we are low budget and hell bent on fabricating everything we can!).
Then Shane welded some spider web bling to the rear roll bar to match the doors. I promise I will post pics today When I paint the works. L.B.