Market test: Factory E-locker to pneumatic replacement

How much would you value this kit at?

  • 250-350

    Votes: 20 76.9%

  • 350-450

    Votes: 4 15.4%

  • 450+

    Votes: 2 7.7%
  • Total voters
    26

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toyotaaddict83

toyotaaddict83

10 Year
Joined
Jul 14, 2013
Threads
37
Messages
381
Location
Appleton, Wisconsin
Lets face it, for those of us that have more than one season in a calendar year have to deal with a lot of issues as these trucks age... COUGH.... RUST and Corrosion. The most disheartening being that a once triple locked truck has now become double lock with and a flashing light. A light that stares you in the face, mocking and laughing with great torment...... Sorry! Can tell there were some hard feelings. Any hoodle doodle, My brother and I have collected and designed a replacement and with the help of my neighbor have produced. I have mine linked to my factory 'Magic Dial' so all i have to do is prime my compressor and turn the switch. So, my question to you, my friends is as follows.

Do you want to replace your faulty or slow factory eLocker with a unit/kit that would literally be plug, bolt and play?

At what price point would you be interested in? Or I could offer different stages of kits, similar to other companies have done with their products.

The kit that i have in mind would include:
(1) Complete custom locker replacement unit
(1) Pneumatic air line
(2) Junctions for air line
(1) Relay for air control
(1) Protective sleeve for air line






I am simply gauging interest here, so any advice or input would be appreciated. I have added a video as demonstration.


Thank you all!

Cheers from,


Jack
TRASHCAT UNLIMITED
 
If the price is right, I would consider a kit. I have an actuator and valve bit need to make the rest. I am so sick of my rear actuator. I have rebuilt it but it only lasts so long before acting up. It was so corroded that I couldn't quite get it right.
 
interested for sure. east coast rust is a beast ate my jeep last year
 
toyotaaddict83 said:
Lets face it, for those of us that have more than one season in a calendar year have to deal with a lot of issues as these trucks age... COUGH.... RUST and Corrosion. The most disheartening being that a once triple locked truck has now become double lock with and a flashing light. A light that stares you in the face, mocking and laughing with great torment...... Sorry! Can tell there were some hard feelings. Any hoodle doodle, My brother and I have collected and designed a replacement and with the help of my neighbor have produced. I have mine linked to my factory 'Magic Dial' so all i have to do is prime my compressor and turn the switch. So, my question to you, my friends is as follows.

Do you want to replace your faulty or slow factory eLocker with a unit/kit that would literally be plug, bolt and play?

At what price point would you be interested in? Or I could offer different stages of kits, similar to other companies have done with their products.

The kit that i have in mind would include:
(1) Complete custom locker replacement unit
(1) Pneumatic air line
(2) Junctions for air line
(1) Relay for air control
(1) Protective sleeve for air line






I am simply gauging interest here, so any advice or input would be appreciated. I have added a video as demonstration.


Thank you all!

Cheers from,


Jack
TRASHCAT UNLIMITED
Click to expand...

It takes a decent amount of force to move the shift collar but i assume you worked all that out? Also - the e locker cant be backdriven (i think) whereas this could?
 
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My $.02 would be that I'd rather have cable driven lockers, as they theoretically would be more resistant to winter salt and sub zero temps. The only one I am aware of is the 'chillicat design' one that is $450 and requires further fabrication, and that's a no-go at that price. I'm still looking...

My lockers seize up every few years and are always a huge pain to get going again, it's the frigging corrosion up heah in the rust belt.:bang:
 
artech said:
My $.02 would be that I'd rather have cable driven lockers, as they theoretically would be more resistant to winter salt and sub zero temps. The only one I am aware of is the 'chillicat design' one that is $450 and requires further fabrication, and that's a no-go at that price. I'm still looking...

My lockers seize up every few years and are always a huge pain to get going again, it's the frigging corrosion up heah in the rust belt.:bang:
Click to expand...
A kit like this would be more resistant to salt corrosion than the oem actuator or cable lockers. If this piston ever did corrode away, new Pistons are less than 50 bucks typically.
 
It's ice in the air tank or lines that sticks air lockers in the winter, not corrosion. Not a locker issue really, more of an air supply issue. Either way, the lockers don't engage and you're just spinning your wheels. Sucks b@lls, especially since you know the whole time that if you can just get the :censor: lockers to engage you can drive right out instead of shoveling for a hour in the freezing cold.
 
nukegoat said:
It takes a decent amount of force to move the shift collar but i assume you worked all that out? Also - the e locker cant be backdriven (i think) whereas this could?
Click to expand...

The shift collar moves surprisingly easy and how I currently have this set up is air driven to engage and a spring within the cyclinder itself to retract or unlock. Works great and is super quick, the hardest part is having the internals line up within the diff for it to lock.

Is that what you were talking about or did I miss by a mile?
 
White Stripe said:
I would use a bigger piston personally. Biggest you can fit. Would u include a compressor?
Click to expand...


At this point, I do not have a way to provide a compressor. Trust me, I would absolutely love to be at that point, but I have yet to get to that point. But again, it all boils down to market size and demand.... If its there, thats a different story.
 
White Stripe said:
A kit like this would be more resistant to salt corrosion than the oem actuator or cable lockers. If this piston ever did corrode away, new Pistons are less than 50 bucks typically.
Click to expand...

artech said:
It's ice in the air tank or lines that sticks air lockers in the winter, not corrosion. Not a locker issue really, more of an air supply issue. Either way, the lockers don't engage and you're just spinning your wheels. Sucks b@lls, especially since you know the whole time that if you can just get the :censor: lockers to engage you can drive right out instead of shoveling for a hour in the freezing cold.
Click to expand...


I have a few ideas with regards to how to beat the FREEEEEEZE.... Upgrades or different packages/specs may be a thing.
 
toyotaaddict83 said:
The shift collar moves surprisingly easy and how I currently have this set up is air driven to engage and a spring within the cyclinder itself to retract or unlock. Works great and is super quick, the hardest part is having the internals line up within the diff for it to lock.

Is that what you were talking about or did I miss by a mile?
Click to expand...
Well the factory set up uses a worm drive, right? So the collar cant unlock unless the motor drives it backward. If there was a slight draft angle on the teeth then they may try to cam out?
 
nukegoat said:
Well the factory set up uses a worm drive, right? So the collar cant unlock unless the motor drives it backward. If there was a slight draft angle on the teeth then they may try to cam out?
Click to expand...

As soon as I unlock my factory Locker switch, the pressure is released from the cylinder and the spring will bring the collar out of a "locked" status. So, in theory the locker should not cam out itself, the cylinder is responsible for that. Or have I failed to follow along again?
 
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