Builds BJ74 LHD 1HZ+T build

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Good to see it working. You do have a problem with that EGT gauge though, sort that out and see what your real temps are.

Is the tacho going yet? Keen to see what rpm is needed to deliver 10psi.
 
gifu said:
RAYJON; interesting idea. As it is right now, it's cold. Eerily cold.

But I might try that trick with the Turboglide setup (which, I think is a Garrett, but not sure on the specs). Is that something folks can do with just die grinder and cutting stone? Or does it need to be machined?

Die grinder works or if you have access a drill press and some tooling works better.
 
Wastegate porting only helps if you are getting boost creep with the wastegate fully open. There is no benefit otherwise.
 
It is good to see you enjoying the 70! I have just about the same thing, a JDM 1989 BJ74 with a 1HZ and a turbo. I can't tell you the boost, all my gauges give me is kilogram per centimeter, or something else my public school didn't cover...

I don't want to hijack your thread.....but how did you get this in America? All my research tells me vehicles need to be 25 years old. Can you please set me in the right direction with a link? I am trying to do my homework, but now reaching out for help. I really do not want to part with this truck when I leave Japan. Thank you.
 
Dougal, wouldn't wastegate porting make the exhaust flow better, and reduce EGT?
 
FJ40pants... if you are a permanent resident of your country (Japan in your case), I believe you can bring your car with you on a temporary basis. In your case, by the time the vehicle would need to leave, it would just about be at the 25 year exempt.
 
Dougal, wouldn't wastegate porting make the exhaust flow better, and reduce EGT?

When the turbo is putting out less than the max boost, the wastegate is closed. So no change there.
When the max boost is reached the wastegate opens just enough to keep the max boost steady. Exhaust flow increases, the flap opens more, exhaust flow decreases and the flap closes more. Trying to port or enlarge it simply means the flap opens less to compensate and pressures (hence egt's) stay exactly where they were.

The only time porting a wastegate will make any difference is if it can't open enough and boost keeps climbing (boost creep). But that's not a concern for diesels, it's a petrol thing.

The influence of pressure on EGT is minor anyway. It follows the ideal gas law. You need a major change in pressure to give a minor change in EGT. If you want lower EGT, run more boost or less fuel.
 
that makes sense...

OK, but what if max boost is reached early... and the wastegate is basically fully open at mid RPM, and under full load EGTs are high.
It seems like porting the wastegate would have a similar affect on EGT as running a larger exhaust does.
 
that makes sense...

OK, but what if max boost is reached early... and the wastegate is basically fully open at mid RPM, and under full load EGTs are high.

The wastegate is never fully open at mid rpm. Pop the actuator arm off and see if you can get any boost at all. The high EGT's are partly because you've selected a turbo that's intended for a high rpm petrol, not a diesel. Have you got your EGT gauge sorted? In the videos it wasn't behaving as it should and reading far colder than it should.

It seems like porting the wastegate would have a similar affect on EGT as running a larger exhaust does.

A larger exhaust reduces backpressure the whole time. A ported wastegate however has no effect on backpressure until maximum flow is reached. You are never going to reach choke flow on a GT28 with a 1HZ which means it's not going to help.
 
OK, I think I fixed the (stupid) Google+ account (read: i deleted it), so the photo links should work.

couple more picts:
wix fuel filter location

overflow bottle relocation

boost controller (ie: Grainger Valve) and boost gauge line.
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couple quick shots...

The OZ 1HZ to T25 adapter; very well made piece. I'm impressed at how well it was machined and matched to the turbo. Should flow well.

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Thanks for the good feed back, and a very nice install too.

Regards Matt
 
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what, the 13BT? Hey, I gave it a "4.5". That's a passing grade. I liked it ok, I just really liked the 1HZ+T and I like doing swaps.

and, I grade on the curve.

The 2F would get a "3", btw.

This is like asking someone why they took at a perfectly good 2F and swapped in a Vortech.
It's the same reason I do anything... chicks dig it. Heh heh.

2F-ETI Would rate a 10 :D
 
I rode in that truck for the first time recently.... wow.
For those who are asking "why swap a 13bt for an hz+t?"

because it is A LOT faster and feels smoother. it is better. period.

with the turbo set up the way it is, it starts boosting somewhere around 5rpm (ok, I'm exaggerating, but it is impressive how quickly it builds boost).

I was the first person to shake my head and tell him "stop messing with that cruiser" ... but the motor swap is nice. I'm also interested to see what the real egts are. it seems implausible that it is running as cold as the gauge says.

mostly I want it to run hotter so that I don't feel like my hd-t is running freakishly hot. :)
 
I rode in that truck for the first time recently.... wow.
For those who are asking "why swap a 13bt for an hz+t?"

because it is A LOT faster and feels smoother. it is better. period.

Indeed, but you are comparing a seriously modified motor (1HZ with turbo) to a bone stock motor. I suspect a 13BT like Hulsty's (with a G Turbo) which was running up to 30psi will be faster.
 
i will take that challenge

i would put the PZ+T up against the 13BT though. they are almost identical in cubes, having an extra 2 cyl isn't really a fair fight.
 
curious though, if DI engines are the cats ass then why does Toyota keep the 1HZ as their mainstay instead continuing the 13BT till today.
the 13BT has the same HP rating.
the 13BT is almost as good on fuel,
the 13BT has WAY more snap than a NA 1HZ
the 13BT has the same robust longevity as the 1HZ

so why did Toyota drop it?
 
curious though, if DI engines are the cats ass then why does Toyota keep the 1HZ as their mainstay instead continuing the 13BT till today.
the 13BT has the same HP rating.
the 13BT is almost as good on fuel,
the 13BT has WAY more snap than a NA 1HZ
the 13BT has the same robust longevity as the 1HZ

so why did Toyota drop it?

Not sure! You should know the answer!!! :)
 
well, cause i like the 1HZ and dislike the 13BT probably doesn't work into Toyota's decision making process.

also, the 13BT is actually just a HEAVILY modified 3B so by that comparison then a turbo'd 1HZ or 1PZ is a lightly modified engine.
 

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