jblueridge
SILVER Star
I like the Lab Metal as a filler. You have to bake the high temp kind before powder coating.
BJ73 FRP windows (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rbtsas
- Start date
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Yes I’m talking about the rubber strip in between the frame which the windows sit on
Cruiserparts sent me garbage. Not the right part. Was the third time I ordered from them and the third time I got garbage. I would be very surprised if they actually still had them.
Kurt has the channel/runner weather strip.
Anybody else’s frames looking rotten and rusted? Is there no solution to this? The SWB frames were discontinued and replaces with a frame that’s covered by rubber and doesn’t require butyl. I was hoping I could find a similar solution for MWB / FRP top.
I have a set of the rear window frames with out the glass out of a 70. Don’t think they will fit as you can see the hard top ones have a rounded corners, unless you are very good at working fiberglass and can add rounded corners to yours.
I think the only choice if you are not a superior fabrication shop is find some out of a parts truck.
On the huge list of things I have to do is remove mine and get them blasted and powder coated before they are too bad to salvage. I think @cruiserdan did his. I do not recall what he used to reinstall (he may have found the Toyota butyl parts though they are also nla. You may be qble to use the same stuff they use to customize RVs and vans for reinstallation That is what I was going to try.)
On the huge list of things I have to do is remove mine and get them blasted and powder coated before they are too bad to salvage. I think @cruiserdan did his. I do not recall what he used to reinstall (he may have found the Toyota butyl parts though they are also nla. You may be qble to use the same stuff they use to customize RVs and vans for reinstallation That is what I was going to try.)
I did it last winter. You need to take that white strip on the inside out. (!) Measure how thick frame + adhesive + FRP layer, which were covered by that strip, are. Then cut the adhesive between frame and FRP Top. I used a scraper that I had sharpened. Lot of muscle grease needed.
If it is original Butyl mastic, still, its horribly sticky. Cold temps help on this. If someone had put something in to fix a leak, that could be anything..
To prey out the glass from the frame you need to remove the bar in the middle (screws on top and bottom of frame; can only be reached when frame is out of FRP Top), move the sliding windows to the middle, stand (yes!) in/on the lower frame rail, and pull the upper frame rail up. (Very funny pic on this in the manual. Don't forget to wear a peaked cap to be all OEM
). Frame and glass out is the only way to install new sliding channels in one piece. Those are readily available.
To glue the frame in again: Make sure you have the spacers on the bottom in place. You may use 6mm butyl cord, as used by factory. There was an original mounting kit (butyl chord + cleaner), but it is NLA. Butyl chord is generic, though.
But modern technology has imho better options: I used SIKA 221i (PU mastik sealant) (I believe SIKA has a successor for this now).
Just use sealant, DO NOT use bodywork adhesive! Sealant can always be cut again to change sliding channels or glass. Adhesive will never let go again..
When gluing the windows back in, make sure you meet the thickness of the beed (measured earlier) agai,n to make sure the strip fits over it again.
To avoid mastic squeezing out too much, I did a test beed on some plywood before, to get the tip of the nozzle cut to an optimal diameter.
Good Luck Ralf
I have yet to see a good solution on ih8mud for the issue it seems many 70 series owners have with the FRP sliding windows. My HZJ73 has the same issues it seem like many have. Corroding metal frames and shrunken leaking seals. Would anyone out east ever consider taking their truck to these guys (see link below) to have some windows made and installed. I would jump on board for an order of some windows they could manufacture for us and have them shipped out here for a local install. I live in Utah so it isn't practical for me to go to Pennsylvania or else I would volunteer.
Design and Manufacturing Capabilities | Young Windows | Construction Windows | Custom Construction Windows | Fire and Rescue Vehicle Windows | Custom Fire and Rescue Vehicle Windows | Highway Vehicle Windows | Custom Highway Vehicle Windows | Locomotive Windows | Custom Locomotive Windows | Sliding Windows | Solid Windows | Canopies | Vents | Pop-Out Windows | Irregulator Shaped Windows | Multi-Panel Windows | Doors | Window Trims | Door Trims | Aluminum Windows - https://youngwindows.com/capabilities/#manufacturing
Design and Manufacturing Capabilities | Young Windows | Construction Windows | Custom Construction Windows | Fire and Rescue Vehicle Windows | Custom Fire and Rescue Vehicle Windows | Highway Vehicle Windows | Custom Highway Vehicle Windows | Locomotive Windows | Custom Locomotive Windows | Sliding Windows | Solid Windows | Canopies | Vents | Pop-Out Windows | Irregulator Shaped Windows | Multi-Panel Windows | Doors | Window Trims | Door Trims | Aluminum Windows - https://youngwindows.com/capabilities/#manufacturing
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Have you contacted that PA company?
Any chance I'd get a discount for the prototype test subject?
Any chance I'd get a discount for the prototype test subject?
I haven't contacted them yet. My search just led to them as they seem quite capable but probably couldn't give us any sort of accurate pricing without putting their hands on a vehicle. I'm wondering what the interest from this community would be, cause if it was significant, I'm guessing we could get better pricing.
They're only two hours from me. It looks like an interesting option that I'd be willing to consider. Since Toyota seemed to upgrade the solution for the non-FRP tops, my guess is there is a unique challenge with the material of the FRP top. I've just decided to let go of the project and live with it for now but if we could find a solution I'd be willing to let my trust take part in a proof of concept. I already have all the part numbers if I have to revert back to OEM.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought that not all the OEM parts are available now. Discontinued parts are what led me on this search for other options.
Sean
Sorry I just saw this, here are the parts for the medium wheel base (obvious I would assume because this is a thread about FRP tops however just making sure)>
| LH QTR Frame MWB | 62706-90K01 |
| RH QTR Frame MWB | 62705-90K01 |
| Run channel | 62755-60040/90K01 |
| Run channel | 62756-60040 |
| Side Window Center Frame LH 7x Series | 67046-90K01 S |
| Side Window Center Frame RH 7x Series | 67045-90K01 |
Maybe this is obvious but, did you paint the frames? if so, did you powder coat it first?I did it last winter. You need to take that white strip on the inside out. (!) Measure how thick frame + adhesive + FRP layer, which were covered by that strip, are. Then cut the adhesive between frame and FRP Top. I used a scraper that I had sharpened. Lot of muscle grease needed.
If it is original Butyl mastic, still, its horribly sticky. Cold temps help on this. If someone had put something in to fix a leak, that could be anything..
To prey out the glass from the frame you need to remove the bar in the middle (screws on top and bottom of frame; can only be reached when frame is out of FRP Top), move the sliding windows to the middle, stand (yes!) in/on the lower frame rail, and pull the upper frame rail up. (Very funny pic on this in the manual. Don't forget to wear a peaked cap to be all OEM
Frame and glass out is the only way to install new sliding channels in one piece. Those are readily available.
To glue the frame in again: Make sure you have the spacers on the bottom in place. You may use 6mm butyl cord, as used by factory. There was an original mounting kit (butyl chord + cleaner), but it is NLA. Butyl chord is generic, though.
But modern technology has imho better options: I used SIKA 221i (PU mastik sealant) (I believe SIKA has a successor for this now).
Just use sealant, DO NOT use bodywork adhesive! Sealant can always be cut again to change sliding channels or glass. Adhesive will never let go again..
When gluing the windows back in, make sure you meet the thickness of the beed (measured earlier) agai,n to make sure the strip fits over it again.
To avoid mastic squeezing out too much, I did a test beed on some plywood before, to get the tip of the nozzle cut to an optimal diameter.
Good Luck Ralf
Thank you for pointing that out. I ordered all parts with Dave Stedman and have them in hand. Just not installed yet.
Sean
jblueridge
SILVER Star
I thought that some of the rubber seals that surround the frame were NLA.
What is NLA is the sticky stuff that goes between the frame and the top. It came s a ribbon from Toyota. You can get that stuff from any body shop supply I believe. As I am drinking a beer at the moment I can not recall what it is called.
cruiser parts said to use Windshieldurethane adhesive is used to secure the frames.
I just today had the 'pleasure' to do the rear window job again..
Did it 3ish years ago. My left window developed a severe leak, which really sucks as the car was parked outside, because my garage is inaccessible due to construction work.I used Sika 221i, a 1k urethane sealant (not sure it is available stateside). Worked great, unless you don't repeat my mistakes
:1. I had a little hole rusted trough the upper left corner. I had successfully treated the rust (as I saw now) by removing, rust converter and paint, but hadn't closed it, as it was actually all covered in sealant. Nevertheless I sprayed the inside of the gliding rail with FluidFilm. That was a mistake: The stuff made it trough the hole and eventually delaminated the bonding. Took 3 years, but eventually...
2. I had painted the frame with Brantho (similar to POR15). The stuff is 'dry' after a few days, but actually takes weeks to month to fully cure.
I now saw the paint had formed some 'orange skin' under the sealant, which was not bonding very well any more. I believe that formed due to solvents still evaporating from the paint into the bonding.
3. I found the FRP to be very smooth and the sealant not sticking to it very well. I guess, I should have roughen the surface.
All in all: Pedantic preparation of the surfaces are key. No fatty stuff and no solvents to be any near. ! Take your time!
Cheers Ralf
Pic's of the delamination and a piece of the old sealant where paint can be seen that came off the frame with it.
