Builds Bj60 Barn truck rebirth + 13bt (2 Viewers)

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Nice build, lots of time. I spent a lot of time on mine. Going on 4 and a half years
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I basically made my own rocker panels out of 3x3 steel square tube and filled the cancerous areas with new 16 ga. Sheet steel and old Harley fenders.

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Finalizing everything is where the real painstaking work resides. No shortage of headaches and scratches. And the thought of "why didn't I take more before photos."

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Finalizing everything is where the real painstaking work resides. No shortage of headaches and scratches. And the thought of "why didn't I take more before photos.
 
Yea is the FF actually stronger though? The 60 series rear axle shafts seem pretty Damn large. The FF shaft is significantly smaller.

you are right, the SF axle is alot bigger where is see's shear and torsion forces, so especially off-road where the axle see's impact's/large shear forces the FF could definably be stronger. It wouldn't be to hard to calculate lol.

For me, the ease of changing a FF axle vs C-clip SF axle on the trail make it 100% worth it!
 
Interesting.. the H and 2H engines will run backwards as well, the EDIC is meant to prevent it with its Low Oil Pressure Cutoff function, but when the EDIC fails Stop Cables are commonly fitted. The 13BT doesn't have any mechanism to prevent it at all? As you've identified, stalling then rolling backwards with the clutch out when in a forward gear causes it.

I run a Stop Cable on the 2H in my HJ47 and consequently am right onto the clutch if something goes wrong on an uphill climb.


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A stop cable is a good idea. I dont know the 13bt well enough to know if there is a mechanism to stop if from running in reverse. To my knowledge, there isn anything stopping it. Im sure alot of people on ih8mud would know the answer lol
 
Why did I see your exact truck driving in front of Mundy park in Coquitlam? I was riding my bicycle and I saw you rippen down the road.
 
A stop cable is a good idea. I dont know the 13bt well enough to know if there is a mechanism to stop if from running in reverse. To my knowledge, there isn anything stopping it. Im sure alot of people on ih8mud would know the answer lol

The 13bt does have a fuel stop lever you can manually move to shut the engine off.


In this guys photo it’s labeled: full load stopper no idea what it does.

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It shuts the fuel off 😊. You could rig up a cable inside the cab to pull it for a manual shutoff.


Here is a thread on 13bt fuel pump adjustments.

13B-T Fuel Adjustment - Power Increase; ANSWERED! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/13b-t-fuel-adjustment-power-increase-answered.256621/



IMO, the biggest drivability upgrade to the 13bt is a newer smaller turbo.
 
Yea is the FF actually stronger though? The 60 series rear axle shafts seem pretty Damn large. The FF shaft is significantly smaller.
The SF axle shafts are the same thickness as FF shafts where they go into the diff, and then get thicker as they go out into the axle housing. This taper apparently stops them from twisting, making them more prone to snapping. But the FF also have their own problems. Shoddy mechanics like to hammer the edges of the drive flange to release the cone washers, and this can lead to deformation of the axle flange and issues with breaking hub studs down the road. If the bearings aren't regularly serviced they will also wear the axle spindles which are not replaceable.

I replaced my SFA with a FFA because the shafts were scrap, and I think the SFA design is rather poor on the 60 with the wheel bearing rollers acting directly on the shaft itself, plus those C washers as the only thing holding your axle in. The Hilux rear FFA is a better design IMO. That said, if your SFA is in good condition, I would not go to the expense and risk (of getting worn spindles or damaged axle shafts) of replacing with a FFA unless you need it to run a locker or LSD. The SFA has proven itself over the years in the 60 Series and other cruisers, they are not a weak point of the vehicle.
 
The SF axle shafts are the same thickness as FF shafts where they go into the diff, and then get thicker as they go out into the axle housing. This taper apparently stops them from twisting, making them more prone to snapping. But the FF also have their own problems. Shoddy mechanics like to hammer the edges of the drive flange to release the cone washers, and this can lead to deformation of the axle flange and issues with breaking hub studs down the road. If the bearings aren't regularly serviced they will also wear the axle spindles which are not replaceable.

I replaced my SFA with a FFA because the shafts were scrap, and I think the SFA design is rather poor on the 60 with the wheel bearing rollers acting directly on the shaft itself, plus those C washers as the only thing holding your axle in. The Hilux rear FFA is a better design IMO. That said, if your SFA is in good condition, I would not go to the expense and risk (of getting worn spindles or damaged axle shafts) of replacing with a FFA unless you need it to run a locker or LSD. The SFA has proven itself over the years in the 60 Series and other cruisers, they are not a weak point of the vehicle.

Very informative. I feel like the cool factor alone is enough for me to swap into a FF…

Also didn’t know Hiluxes came with FF…

Anyways, I’m surprised that the spindle can be worn down. On the front axles they are replaceable.
 
Very informative. I feel like the cool factor alone is enough for me to swap into a FF…

Also didn’t know Hiluxes came with FF…

Anyways, I’m surprised that the spindle can be worn down. On the front axles they are replaceable.
No, the Hilux is SFA, but there is a sealed bearing pressed onto the axle shaft so no real scope to wear the axle shaft or housing - and the bearing housing is replaceable. The down-sise is that it is even less field servicable than the SFA 60 Series rear wheel bearing.

Any time taper roller bearings lose their pre-load, they are liable to spin, and with the weight of the vehicle on the bearings, they will wear away the spindles. Easy fix to replace a front spindle, on the rear FFA you need major machine work.

The real advantage of the FFA is when things break - if the rear diff fails, or a half shaft, you can just pull the rear half shafts and go on in 4WD with only the front wheels being driven. With the C-clip design of the 60 Series SFA, if a rear diff or one of your half shafts fails, you are totally stranded. Not what I want in an overland vehicle. It's also nice to have the same taper roller bearing set on all four wheels.
 
Why did I see your exact truck driving in front of Mundy park in Coquitlam? I was riding my bicycle and I saw you rippen down the road.


My brother is taking care of it right now. He's going to drive it to Winnipeg in a few days.
 
The 13bt does have a fuel stop lever you can manually move to shut the engine off.


In this guys photo it’s labeled: full load stopper no idea what it does.

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It shuts the fuel off 😊. You could rig up a cable inside the cab to pull it for a manual shutoff.


Here is a thread on 13bt fuel pump adjustments.

13B-T Fuel Adjustment - Power Increase; ANSWERED! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/13b-t-fuel-adjustment-power-increase-answered.256621/



IMO, the biggest drivability upgrade to the 13bt is a newer smaller turbo.






Last year I read all you posts about the turbo upgrade multiple times! One day I'll make it happen lol. What turbo/specs are you running now?
 
Last year I read all you posts about the turbo upgrade multiple times! One day I'll make it happen lol. What turbo/specs are you running now?

Ha! Hope it wasn’t too boring


I ended up running a holset HE221w, 5.5cm. I know some have gone a little bigger but I’m at 3500-5000’ altitude. It’s a modern turbo and the smaller size works great with it. Transformed the 13bt drivability for sure.

It has made the 13bt so much more modern feeling. Factory setting on the turbo is 18psi. Adjustable wastegate can get you a whole lot more. These turbo are capable of a lot of boost if wanted.

A little more DIY for sure, but I still came out about 1/2 price of a Gturbo.
 

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