Well lets keep the story going. That thing looks like a hot mess, but I'm curious to see what comes next!
Builds BJ42 found in derelict barn
- Thread starter Past it
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- #42
Having experienced the sheer delight of the starter motor whirring into action, jubilation soon turned to despair as that was all. Zilch! That is when I asked the stupid question on this forum, " how do you start a bj" ? Not one reply. Undaunted I trawled around and got the simple answer " turn the ignition key back to fire up the glowplugs". Skipping back to the garage I did as I was told. Hey presto, I had a red light. Then starter motor into action. Zilch! Just a wisp of smoke slowly curling up from the engine debris. Ostrichwise, I thought I would ignore it for now and ask another stupid question. " Is it possible to check that the glow plugs actually glow and can I check fuel flow at the injectors". Not one reply. In desperation I did the only thing possible. I pulled up a chair and just looked. I vaguely knew where the smoke had come from so concentrated on that area. Nothing loomed out to hit me. Then, Bingo! I had no idea what it did but, but the smoke had appeared to come from the small motor attached by a shaft to the fuel injector pump. The end of the shaft is simply pushed on by a ball and spring socket . The shaft must have "bounced" off on its journey over the Pyrenees and jammed only 5mm away against the fuel opening mechanism thereby stopping the fuel flow. Oh, joy. Ignition on, turn back for red light and wait 10 seconds, then starter motor on. Nothing. Try again............. Hallelujah! It burst into life. I was stunned. Almost 5 years a mangled wreck and it wasn't giving up. Well, neither was I.
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- #43
The decision was made. If the engine worked and the gears and clutch all functioned, then all I needed to do was fix the body. All the metalwork, excluding the tub was removed, just a load of nuts and bolts. The tub was quite heavy but between two of us we simply tipped it up and slid it over the rear of the chassis. Suitable rollers ( logs ) , were then deployed and the tub pushed away. I was hoping the tub could be salvaged but on tipping it over it soon became clear that the French have never bothered with an annual vehicle inspection. Pop rivets seemed to be holding it together. All the other panels ,wings , bonnet etc. looked very much past it so I consulted the oracle, IH8mud, and was sensibly advised to go for a complete change. Repairing any piece would undoubtedly take forever so was out of the question. With the parts being distributed over the whole of the world, ( except the U.K ), I could see that costs were going to be a bit of a problem. I favoured a metal replacement but I had seen how good a fibre glass Porsche could look. And What about the weight!. I could also keep the cost down by getting a soft top fitted. I preferred that option anyway. By a bit of serious detective work I managed to find a suppliers manufacturer in Germany. With a lot of Guten Tag's and Aufwiedersehen's I managed to convey my requirements to Klaus. Cutting out the middle man, I got a very good deal and all I had to do was be patient for a few weeks.
Living in the Past
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Believe stainless steel tubs are being made in France.
I live in the dry climate of Arizona, USA and wouldn't think of a fiberglass or aluminum tub. Only steel for me.
I live in the dry climate of Arizona, USA and wouldn't think of a fiberglass or aluminum tub. Only steel for me.
Believe stainless steel tubs are being made in France.
I live in the dry climate of Arizona, USA and wouldn't think of a fiberglass or aluminum tub. Only steel for me.
Curious why you will not do aluminum ? Aluminum has wonderful rust resistance . I know in Arizona , rust is really not much an issue but aluminum would guarantee no rust.
Living in the Past
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Besides original being steel no special grounding requirements like aluminum. Have no seen a aluminum transmission hump that looks anywhere close to original. Never hear of fitment issue with OEM steel parts as long as they are still original. As for guarantee no rust, forty-four years with no rust on my first FJ40 another forty-four years I'm not concerned about.
What about the stainless steel tubs ? Arizona or Seattle I believe that tub would last forever.
wimberosa
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Unbelievable.....you cannot kill these things. What an adventure you are on.
Living in the Past
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The Stainless steel tubs are being made in France (where this BJ42 is) so shipping to the Southwest would be a deal killer. If in France might be a good option.
Subscribed!
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- #51
The discussion over steel ,aluminium, stainless steel or fibre glass will always I believe come down to cost and what one is prepared to pay. Rust in a damp climate like the U.K. is always a long term problem and I cannot imagine a new build being as good as the original Toyota. Stainless steel is far too expensive. Aluminium for me was a favorite but what I saw was all flat panels, not at all like the original. The fibre glass version I eventually bought, you cannot distinguish from the original metal. Strengthening ribs all over in the right places. I know in time the fibre glass may crack and the paintwork dull, but if it lasts 10 years that's good enough for me. I shall be handing it on to my son so he should not be too bothered about it's value. The one thing I miss with the original is the captive screws. Everything requires nuts and bolts although with the thick fibre glass I have tapped threads when strength is not important. However, I overrun. The very first thing to do is to take photographs everywhere and label all the wiring connections.Relying on one's memory after many months or even years just does not work. And don't throw away the tub or wings just to make the garden pretty. I have been back many times to the metal bits to look for mounting clues. I have also cut out numerous spot welded pieces for strengthening fibre glass fixings.............Until the fibre glass tub etc. arrived , I now had the time to clean up the chassis and the engine.
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- #53
just a few more pics. before I begin.
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- #54
Whilst waiting for the fibre glass bits to arrive, I now had a few weeks to concentrate on the chassis. It was just one big clean up by hand. The only parts needing attention through rust were the two corner brackets in the rear. The rest was just hard graft. I changed any split or perished rubber parts but that was all.I used POR15 for the paint job and I will simply post some pics. to show the result.
redeye
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Wow! Fantastic work.
What steps are you using to clean up and prep the frame? Any solvents, or just a lot of elbow grease?
What steps are you using to clean up and prep the frame? Any solvents, or just a lot of elbow grease?
once in awhile!
What a cool story. Best of luck moving forward.
John in Utah
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Looking really good! Is any of the body salvageable or are you replacing all of it with fiberglass pieces?
That motor you smoked is the EDIC, does it still work? Pretty easy to replace it with a FJ40 choke cable for a manual engine cut-off.
That motor you smoked is the EDIC, does it still work? Pretty easy to replace it with a FJ40 choke cable for a manual engine cut-off.
Great story and photos. I love your sense of humor. Good job on keeping another one alive. Very wise to keep the old tub as long as possible to use for measurements and parts.
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- #60
Thanks for the interest guys. Elbow grease, sweat, blood and lots of rubber gloves .Then POR15 metal prep and pre primer. They recommend two coats of top coats if exposed to UV . As most chassis's are underneath , I didn't. Mistake! The bits in front of the rad have already dulled so I will have to rub down and apply another coat. I shall be replacing all the metal parts except the front fold down grill. Oh, and I am going for a soft top. It may mean emigrating to a warmer climate. I'll tell the wife later. All else will eventually become beer cans. ( just doing my bit for us all ). The EDIC by the way did still work after smoking but I can go to bed a bit earlier now that I have one less thing to worry about. This just about finishes the chassis so next stop, the body.
