BJ and my best friend Bear

[cruiserpilot]

Well I've been wading around in pools of grease and oil. Well it seems like it anyway.

What was just an exercise to get the brakes working again has turned into a full brake, bearing, seal rebuild. Diff oil was escaping into the wheels bearings, there was crap everywhere.
Pulled one caliper out and the brake pad lining just disintegrated.

So finally stripped everything out, cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. Have it in a nicely arranged layout and just checking everything over for wear.

The wheel bearing washer has some wear in it. Not surprised as the preloading of the nuts was pretty low and the diff oil through them doesn't help. So the bearings would have been spining a bit....in the wrong way. Stub axle looks ok though. Seals are not great in the calipers, rotors very worn, knuckle bearings stuffed, seals....well what seals.

I must say, that design with the brake lines from the diff to baking plate, to caliper is weird. That right angle joiner mounted to the backing plated is odd why not just go flexible brake line from diff, directly to the caliper. It already has a nice mounting point where the steel line joins the flexible on the diff axle housing. And undoing it was a right pain in the ass.

Anyway, Merry Christmas and Happy Birthday truck. I bought you new seals and bearings all round, new rotors, calipers and pads. Have it laid out now and cleaned. Will put my OCD into overdrive and paint all the components up then reassemble.

Once it actually has brakes, I'll finish changing all the oils out and be looking forward to a drive to find out what is next in the drivetrain.

Rear brakes done, new shoes, cylinders, seals and a bloody good strip down and paint. Before and after...yes there was zero lining on those shoes.

I use this Bendix brake lube on the metal to metal parts. Just a light smear, but it works bloody well to help the internals move freely. Use it all the time on the catavan electric drum brakes.

Ceramasil Brake Parts Lubricant | Bendix Brakes | Bendix Brakes

Have absolute confidence with Bendix High Performance Synthetic Brake Lubricant. Lasting protection against friction, wear & corrosion!

www.bendix.co.nz

View attachment 3806285

View attachment 3806286

So did you just back your boat trailer into the ocean or did you tow your Crusier around in the ocean? Honestly not sure I’ve seen rear brakes that bad. What a beautiful transformation!! Magnificent.

 

[fullthrottle]

So did you just back your boat trailer into the ocean or did you tow your Crusier around in the ocean? Honestly not sure I’ve seen rear brakes that bad. What a beautiful transformation!! Magnificent.

LoL, yeah you would think it's been standing in the ocean.
The truck was used on a farm, registration has been on hold for quite a few years and sat in storage. Only done 179k of km's. Bit of a barn find, only cost me $5k NZD, so don't mind investing the time and money to put it back on the road.
Chassis is in really good condition, usual bodywork to be done, but apart from that, it just needs some overdue maintenance.

I say all this in the hope it will be on the road soon. Maybe I've spoken too soon

 

[fullthrottle]

Ready to go!!!
Oh this is the only thing I don't like about the holidays. It's a bit harder to get the parts. All I'm waiting for now are the knuckle bearings. Otherwise all cleaned up and painted.

 

[Broski]

More nice work and great organization skills!

 

[fullthrottle]

Did a bit more investigation around the rest of the running gear today. It always bugged me why it wouldn't shift into L4 on the transfer, so sorted it out here...

H55F low range selection

So whilst I wait for some front-end bits, I thought I would look at some other drive train anomalies....or lack of knowledge on my part. Shifting to L4 just doesn't seem possible as the shifter hits the tunnel when moving ever so slightly from N. Is there a trick or adjustment somewhere. I...

forum.ih8mud.com

Whilst there, thought I would check out the contents of the transfer, pto and gearbox.
Gearbox wasn't bad, no leaks and had plenty of reasonably clean oil.

Now the transfer and pto was a different story. You know what road tar looks like, well add a little bit of water and that's pretty much what dropped out. Well not much of it, so it's been leaking.
Someone has stripped the thread on the fuller plug of the transfer, so will add that to the list.

I've refilled them all with some (not too expensive 80w-90, will give them a little run, see where the leaks are and then seal and flush them out again.

Initial look shows there is a small leak out the pto shaft and another from the main driveshaft seal.

Nothing Mr old greasy hands can't sort out LoL.

 

[Combat Wombat]

Ive had pretty good success with rubber seal rejuvenator additives, the seals dry out, kinda like the solvents in the rubber evaporate. The additive swells the seal back up again.
Ive used a few, some work better than others (depends on the leak size, and the fluid etc... )
repco.com.au_gear-repair-500ml

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Sounds like a good opportunity to rebuild the transfer and PTO, and check what it's like inside. When you say PTO shaft, which shaft do you mean? I recently rebuilt my PTO box and found that the front output seal is still available, but not the O-rings for the idler/shift fork shafts, but I can refer you to the correct sizes if you need them.

Rebuilding the transfer is pretty easy, only standard tools are needed, but ideally you'd need to drop it out of the car (though it's not strictly necessary).

 

[FJBen]

Sounds like a good opportunity to rebuild the transfer and PTO, and check what it's like inside. When you say PTO shaft, which shaft do you mean? I recently rebuilt my PTO box and found that the front output seal is still available, but not the O-rings for the idler/shift fork shafts, but I can refer you to the correct sizes if you need them.

Rebuilding the transfer is pretty easy, only standard tools are needed, but ideally you'd need to drop it out of the car (though it's not strictly necessary).

I agree. I had a similar leak and really the only true fix is to rebuild the tcase.

@fullthrottle I’ve rebuilt in the vehicle and out on the floor as well. It wasn’t that bad in the vehicle, but it was easier on the ground for sure.

Now in the time to replace clutch/pressure plate, rear main if leaking, rebuild tcase and low range gears of you want them.

 

[fullthrottle]

Well I've had a bit of a break from old BJ, back to work and renovating the bathroom gets in the way.

Anyway, finally managed to spend some time to reassemble the knuckles.
I'm sure my local bearing/seal shop either hates me or loves the challenge of finding old parts. But he's bloody good at it and you can trust his seals and bearings. So shout out to Mana Bearings.
On the other hand, the larger franchises have 3 goes at it and still cannot get the right parts in

Anyway, progress Yay!
Only to find out that in the kit the other store provided to rebuild, it has no swivel hub seal retainers....arrrrgh!

 

[fullthrottle]

Finally all the parts now, so have made some progress on both sides today. I aim to finish it this weekend so I can then flush out all the new brakes and at least get it moving again.

New bearings and seals all round.
New calipers, pads and rotors.


Will flush the whole system with DOT 5.1. Have been reading some good things about it and the old BJ.

 

[fullthrottle]

Oh yeah, almost forgot. I've come across a fully rebuilt 1HDT, so I'll put that in my back pocket and look at repowering it with that

 

[fullthrottle]

Righto, what a right old couple of weeks.
Happily bleeding the front brakes and no luck with the rears. Spent far too much time trying to diagnose a crappie LSPV. Rebuilt it, no joy, replaced it, no joy. Threw some stuff around the garage in frustration.....a little joy.

You will never guess why I had soooo much trouble getting the rear brakes to bleed properly. This picture represents the thousands of swear words that passed through my lips...

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Haha you got a free pair of locking pliers with the car?

 

[fullthrottle]

It's alive!!!
Brakes, handbrake, all gears, low ratio and PTO. Just a couple of pinion seals to replace to sort out some minor leaks and she's a runner.

Proof, it made it out the driveway....
No I didn't push it

 

[Broski]

Great work

 

[fullthrottle]

So I've been spending the past week or so getting intimate with the under carriage. Scrubbed and cleaned down all the running gear, suspension, chassis. Gave it a birthday with black zinc paint and is a lot cleaner.

What did I learn whilst under there. Well the chassis has very little rust, which was surprising. All mounts are sound. Floor pan is in great condition and I'll look at cleaning that up and spraying with Dinitrol.
Exhaust is shot and needs replacing.
Wouldn't mind some parabolic springs.
Shocks need replacing.
Wheel offset is wrong/tyres too wide as they have been rubbing on the inner rear guards.

 

[AirheadNut]

Looks really good! I’d love to do that to mine someday after I fix the body rust.

 

[fullthrottle]

Hooray!! It's stopped bleeding.
Yes all the leaks have been found and fixed.

Diffs, tcase, pto seals all done.

The most pain in the ass one has got to be that pto output shaft. As the shaft is keyed into the flange, both made of steel and been sitting around forever, you guessed it...seized!!!

Back together now and new fluids. So she's much happier.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Hooray!! It's stopped bleeding.
Yes all the leaks have been found and fixed.

Diffs, tcase, pto seals all done.

The most pain in the ass one has got to be that pto output shaft. As the shaft is keyed into the flange, both made of steel and been sitting around forever, you guessed it...seized!!!

Back together now and new fluids. So she's much happier.

View attachment 3873295

Even with no corrosion it's a long pull to get the flange off the shaft:

Toyota still sell the oil seal for the output shaft (a double lip seal type) and the rubber boot for the shifter shaft.

 

[fullthrottle]

Well, thought a bit of an update was in order.

Been preparing to get stuck into the bodywork, so want it inside for most of the time. That meant clearing space for all the parts removed and being able to move around it. So it end up in a bloody 3 day garage clear-out. But man it's so much better.
I'm going to throw it on some wheel dollies so I can push it around to center stage and tuck it out of the way when I've had far too much of it...or some other work comes in that needs attention.

Have also bit the bullet and purchased the 1HDT to swap-out the lazy 3B. So been doing a fair bit of research on 2 options...converting to auto, or mating it to the H55 (5 speed).
Conversion to Auto

The whole engine has been stripped down:
- Block and Head decked
- New crank, rods, rod bolts and bearings
- New valve springs, stem seals and guides
- New water pump
- Head bolts
- Re-honed
- Hi-flowed CT26 turbo
- New injectors and injector pump rebuilt

Comes with lots of spares, even another block so will make it easier to stage in the engine bay.

Here in NZ I'll need to get a Low Volume Cert done for the engine swap. Have been thinking what else significant I should do so I do the cert once. Maybe get rid of the leaf springs. But would need to research that a bit more if it's really worth it, or just upgrading to some nice parabolic springs.