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The 1HD-T will have the tachometer pickup on the injection pump, but it won't work with the original BJ73 tachometer.
Build BJ and my best friend Bear
- Thread starter fullthrottle
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fullthrottle
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- #62
There is probably a solution out there.
This was also interesting...
1HZ injection pump signal to BJ70 tachometer sensor
fullthrottle
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- #63
For my records, been doing some measuring of old to new....
The clutch pressure plate is pretty big. I don't have really accurate measuring tools, so gave some tolerance here and there.
The clutch pressure plate is pretty big. I don't have really accurate measuring tools, so gave some tolerance here and there.
fullthrottle
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- #64
Ok, so I've been spending what spare 'truck time' I have in staging the engine to gearbox and mounting in the engine bay.
I need to cut off the old 3B Engine brackets and weld replacements in that align with the 1HDT position.
These new engine brackets are like hens teeth. In fact you can only get one side as the other has now been discontinued. I guess that's what happen when a vehicle is pushing 40 years.
Thanks to Dave, he's found the following. Basically the engine brackets from an HZJ73.
51421-60140 5,790yen
51422-60140 Delisted
So my plan is to obtain 51421-60140, bolt it to the engine. Have the gearbox bolted to the engine. Then lower the whole lot into the engine bay, bolt the gearbox into it's mounts and then position the engine so that the one engine bracket is in the right position. That will at least give me the correct spacing and I'll just fabricate the other side.
I need to cut off the old 3B Engine brackets and weld replacements in that align with the 1HDT position.
These new engine brackets are like hens teeth. In fact you can only get one side as the other has now been discontinued. I guess that's what happen when a vehicle is pushing 40 years.
Thanks to Dave, he's found the following. Basically the engine brackets from an HZJ73.
51421-60140 5,790yen
51422-60140 Delisted
So my plan is to obtain 51421-60140, bolt it to the engine. Have the gearbox bolted to the engine. Then lower the whole lot into the engine bay, bolt the gearbox into it's mounts and then position the engine so that the one engine bracket is in the right position. That will at least give me the correct spacing and I'll just fabricate the other side.
fullthrottle
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- #65
Been busy stripping the gearbox and transfer down. It seems pretty good, but I know it was whining a little in 5th. I understand that 5th in these H55F's are a bit weak anyway.
Otherwise it looks pretty good and bearings quite sound. I'll do some measurements and see if anything needs replacing.
Otherwise it looks pretty good and bearings quite sound. I'll do some measurements and see if anything needs replacing.
fullthrottle
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- #67
Well my good man, I ended up going down the path you suggested. Mainly because I found that Repco (automotive parts store) is actually getting rid of these from stock.
At $283 NZD, they are pretty cheap now. There are two more left in the country if anyone wants a cheap HZJ input shaft.
At $283 NZD, they are pretty cheap now. There are two more left in the country if anyone wants a cheap HZJ input shaft.
fullthrottle
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- #68
So now that I managed to get the old input shaft out, do some measuring to make sure it matches the HZJ / 1HZ one, I had another thought....
All the dimensions match apart from the 15mm journal and overall length of 260mm on the HZJ version.
So I end up 20mm shorter on the overall shaft length which is what I need to accommodate the 20mm shorter 1HZ bell housing.
Now the bearing retainer......I am thinking that I would need to shave 20mm off the end of that so it doesn't clash with the clutch plate?
All the dimensions match apart from the 15mm journal and overall length of 260mm on the HZJ version.
So I end up 20mm shorter on the overall shaft length which is what I need to accommodate the 20mm shorter 1HZ bell housing.
Now the bearing retainer......I am thinking that I would need to shave 20mm off the end of that so it doesn't clash with the clutch plate?
fullthrottle
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- #69
Doing some more research and I would say that I would need to get the 1HZ bearing retainer. The sleeve that the thrust bearing rides back and forth on is quite a different length between the two, plus it almost needs to travel back closer to the main housing...
fullthrottle
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- #70
Finally, the weather has warmed up, rain stopped and I can do some painting.
Zapped the exhaust manifold with electrolysis and gave it a coat of paint.
Cleaned and painted up the gearbox housing.
Did a light test coat for the body colour. It's much nicer in person and really glows in the sun. Just to see if I like it.
Zapped the exhaust manifold with electrolysis and gave it a coat of paint.
Cleaned and painted up the gearbox housing.
Did a light test coat for the body colour. It's much nicer in person and really glows in the sun. Just to see if I like it.
fullthrottle
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- #71
Well, have been spending a fair bit of time (when I have spare time of course) cleaning, painting and assembling the engine, ready for insertion.
Using a bit of the body colour as highlights.
Gees, 30 odd years of grime takes a lot of cleaning LoL
Using a bit of the body colour as highlights.
Gees, 30 odd years of grime takes a lot of cleaning LoL
fullthrottle
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- #72
Getting closer...... these things take time you know LoL
fullthrottle
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- #73
So I've been offered a Griffin radiator to go into the truck, but will need to determine if it's suitable for my application.
It's a little smaller in dimensions, but maybe a bit thicker. Comes with shroud for an electric fan. So might ditch the old fan setup.
Core is 570w x 383h x 60d (mm)
It's a little smaller in dimensions, but maybe a bit thicker. Comes with shroud for an electric fan. So might ditch the old fan setup.
Core is 570w x 383h x 60d (mm)
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fullthrottle
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- #74
Bit more progress. Have got the new flywheel and clutch installed. Removed from stand and ready to locate into the engine bay. Also putting the gearbox back together now that all the parts have arrived from Dave at Japan4x4.
Good Lord, and I thought we had problems with rust here in the Northeast of the US! Great transformation.Well I've been wading around in pools of grease and oil. Well it seems like it anyway.
What was just an exercise to get the brakes working again has turned into a full brake, bearing, seal rebuild. Diff oil was escaping into the wheels bearings, there was crap everywhere.
Pulled one caliper out and the brake pad lining just disintegrated.
So finally stripped everything out, cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. Have it in a nicely arranged layout and just checking everything over for wear.
The wheel bearing washer has some wear in it. Not surprised as the preloading of the nuts was pretty low and the diff oil through them doesn't help. So the bearings would have been spining a bit....in the wrong way. Stub axle looks ok though. Seals are not great in the calipers, rotors very worn, knuckle bearings stuffed, seals....well what seals.
I must say, that design with the brake lines from the diff to baking plate, to caliper is weird. That right angle joiner mounted to the backing plated is odd why not just go flexible brake line from diff, directly to the caliper. It already has a nice mounting point where the steel line joins the flexible on the diff axle housing. And undoing it was a right pain in the ass.
Anyway, Merry Christmas and Happy Birthday truck. I bought you new seals and bearings all round, new rotors, calipers and pads. Have it laid out now and cleaned. Will put my OCD into overdrive and paint all the components up then reassemble.
Once it actually has brakes, I'll finish changing all the oils out and be looking forward to a drive to find out what is next in the drivetrain.
Rear brakes done, new shoes, cylinders, seals and a bloody good strip down and paint. Before and after...yes there was zero lining on those shoes.
I use this Bendix brake lube on the metal to metal parts. Just a light smear, but it works bloody well to help the internals move freely. Use it all the time on the catavan electric drum brakes.
Ceramasil Brake Parts Lubricant | Bendix Brakes | Bendix Brakes
Have absolute confidence with Bendix High Performance Synthetic Brake Lubricant. Lasting protection against friction, wear & corrosion!www.bendix.co.nz
View attachment 3806285
View attachment 3806286
fullthrottle
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- #76
Well it's in, but also bit wonky 
Decided to get the engine in and aligned with the new engine mounts. So to make things easier/lighter, I just bolted the empty gearbox housing to the gearbox mount and then to the bellhousing and engine. I need to take it all out anyway for painting, once I've finished grinding and welding for the new engine mounts.
I've done a trial by clamping the right hand side engine chassis bracket to the chassis. Now the engine sits on a very slight diagonal, so something is not quite right. I put a straight-edge across the face of the crank pulley and then measured each side along the chassis rails to the front cross member. The engine wants to turn towards the left slightly, or gearbox towards the right. I've tried mucking around with the engine mounts.
I ran out of time (since a New Year's eve beer has my name on it). But I did wonder if I had put the gearbox mount around the wrong way. I unbolted it from the cross member to clean it up a bit, but couldn't remember which way around it should go. So the gearbox mounting might be a little off center. It would only need to move very slightly to make a big difference.
Anyway, that's for another day...
Decided to get the engine in and aligned with the new engine mounts. So to make things easier/lighter, I just bolted the empty gearbox housing to the gearbox mount and then to the bellhousing and engine. I need to take it all out anyway for painting, once I've finished grinding and welding for the new engine mounts.
I've done a trial by clamping the right hand side engine chassis bracket to the chassis. Now the engine sits on a very slight diagonal, so something is not quite right. I put a straight-edge across the face of the crank pulley and then measured each side along the chassis rails to the front cross member. The engine wants to turn towards the left slightly, or gearbox towards the right. I've tried mucking around with the engine mounts.
I ran out of time (since a New Year's eve beer has my name on it). But I did wonder if I had put the gearbox mount around the wrong way. I unbolted it from the cross member to clean it up a bit, but couldn't remember which way around it should go. So the gearbox mounting might be a little off center. It would only need to move very slightly to make a big difference.
Anyway, that's for another day...
- Joined
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In the 60 Series the engine is not in straight from factory. I'm not sure if the 70 Series is the same, but I would not be worried about it.
fullthrottle
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- #78
Yeah I was wondering if that might be the case. Would be annoying for the fan to shroud and radiator alignment. Doesn't bother me, as I have a new radiator with electric fan.
Only other thing would be if the rest of the drivetrain was slightly off.
Anyone with some pics of their HZJ73 engine bay to confirm?
fullthrottle
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- #79
Ok, found an old photo of the gearbox mount on the cross member. It's definitely in the right place.
It's easy to mount those 180 degrees around the other way, but what that does is push your gearbox forward by about 10-20mm.
Note to self, gearbox mount sits more towards the rear of the cross member...
It's easy to mount those 180 degrees around the other way, but what that does is push your gearbox forward by about 10-20mm.
Note to self, gearbox mount sits more towards the rear of the cross member...
fullthrottle
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- #80
AND it's in!!!
Finally, the engine is on it's new mounts.
Since you can no longer buy the right-hand engine mount (the part that is welded to the chassis) for an HZJ73, I ended up getting two left-hand ones to see if I could modify it to suit.
Wasn't ideal, but after leveling the engine, using the left-hand mount as a guide, I managed to mock up another mount.
I then made a pattern and my mate for our 4x4 club CNC'd it out for me.
Then some test fits and a slight tweak and it's it. Just tacked for now, so I can pull the engine back out, complete the welding, bare metal the chassis and firewall and repaint.
Soooo, now I have a pattern sitting in the CNC machine if anyone needs a right-hand engine mount.
Finally, the engine is on it's new mounts.
Since you can no longer buy the right-hand engine mount (the part that is welded to the chassis) for an HZJ73, I ended up getting two left-hand ones to see if I could modify it to suit.
Wasn't ideal, but after leveling the engine, using the left-hand mount as a guide, I managed to mock up another mount.
I then made a pattern and my mate for our 4x4 club CNC'd it out for me.
Then some test fits and a slight tweak and it's it. Just tacked for now, so I can pull the engine back out, complete the welding, bare metal the chassis and firewall and repaint.
Soooo, now I have a pattern sitting in the CNC machine if anyone needs a right-hand engine mount.