BJ and my best friend Bear

[fullthrottle]

Thought I should put in some more effort and share the build of my old BJ73, medium wheel base....you know, those FRP top models. For those that like the option of spending too much time removing the top, turning it into a convertible, only for it to rain and have mud thrown at you the next outing.

Like any new project, I bought the base for the build and then it sat there for many months while I pondered what I should do to it. I've been recording the initial inspection and build here BJ and the Bear (70 Series)

I think Ive finally settled on the outcome. However, it requires an interesting modification to the FRP top. Basically I want to chop the back half of the FRP top, enclose the cabin and turn it into a ute.
The FRP top has a natural cut line, (red dotted line) but the question I am pondering is enclosing it by moulding a fibreglass panel into the remainder of the FRP top.
Anyone done something similar.

Here is the inspiration.....

 

[Guyute]

Lots of good info here >
Builds - Billy's excellent FJ73-12HT - resto-modded - n that - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/billys-excellent-fj73-12ht-resto-modded-n-that.863291/

 

[Broski]

Be a shame to cut up that nice top

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I get that the FRP roof is not that practical, but that white abomination (amazing combination of AliExpress wheels and a snorkel) doesn't solve the issue, it just gets rid of the option to have an open roof. If you keep the rear part of the FRP roof with a similar modification, it will at least still look like a MWB Cruiser, but what do you gain? As the driver you'll just be in an encolosed cabin again. Sure it will be a pickup but not with any useful load area as the floor will be mostly wheel-well.

I would restore the car and upgrade the engine to a 14B/15B platform.

 

[Broski]

Plus It's not going to look the same, the one in you reference picture has been chassis stretched.

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

As mentioned above, @Billyfj7312ht did the conversion you ask about.

A bikini top (with tarpaulin) would serve the same purpose with less effort.

However, a 75/79 Series makes a better ute because of the bed space. But that is just my opinion.

The white truck in the pictures appears to be a 75 Series with a frame cut to make it look like a 73 Series.

Your 73 Series looks well kept. It would be worth restoring. I would restore it and I would swap a newer engine in, but that is just me.





Juan

 

[FJBen]

Is a soft top out of the question? You can still buy the OEM soft top although it’s pricey. There are 2 aftermarket tops as well.

I run aftermarket soft top from April to November, although this year im just changing it today.

I wouldn’t cut up a good FRP top. They are super rare to find a replacement. I’ve seen people pull windows to have tarp in sections and even tarp on the top.


This is how I run 90% of the time. I can have the sides on and weatherproof in a few minutes.

 

[fullthrottle]

Is a soft top out of the question? You can still buy the OEM soft top although it’s pricey. There are 2 aftermarket tops as well.

I run aftermarket soft top from April to November, although this year im just changing it today.

That's something I haven't really looked into. Are you able to provide links on the suppliers of these tops?

I get what you're saying about the FRP top. The other problem I have is that the window frames in the top are rotten. The only replacement I've been able to find are those solid gull wings. $1k a side, plus I don't really like them being solid.
I've got an LX470 and had a 80 I rebuilt, here: My 80 matey restore, so wanted to try something a bit different than a fully enclosed 4x4, and to carry the MTB bikes. What @Billyfj7312ht looks pretty bloody good to me

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

The window frames are still available.





Juan

 

[fullthrottle]

Hello,

The window frames are still available.





Juan

Do you happen to know where from?

 

[cruiserpilot]

Lots of good info here >
Builds - Billy's excellent FJ73-12HT - resto-modded - n that - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/billys-excellent-fj73-12ht-resto-modded-n-that.863291/

That’s a masterful job of what you intend. I just sold a spare top to a guy who may or may not cut it up. I was tempted myself. I couldn’t imagine the big deal about taking roof on and off. It takes me about 30 min. I generally remove the roll bar and spreader bars as well.
I also have removed all the door and rear panel cards so if I get caught out in bad rain at least those cheap old vinyl/pressed paper things don’t get ruined. Keep an old towel under the seat to dry things out. Lol

 

[cruiserpilot]

It’s why I have a BJ74. Convertibles rule! I’m just posting this cause I can. Remove my roof. LOL!

 

[JuanJ]

Do you happen to know where from?

Hello,

You can get them through your Toyota parts dealer or a supplier like PartSouq or Megazip.





Juan

 

[Shyrock]

That's something I haven't really looked into. Are you able to provide links on the suppliers of these tops?

I get what you're saying about the FRP top. The other problem I have is that the window frames in the top are rotten. The only replacement I've been able to find are those solid gull wings. $1k a side, plus I don't really like them being solid.
I've got an LX470 and had a 80 I rebuilt, here: My 80 matey restore, so wanted to try something a bit different than a fully enclosed 4x4, and to carry the MTB bikes. What @Billyfj7312ht looks pretty bloody good to me

Possible classified ?

 

[Billyfj7312ht]

Go for it, Chop it up!
Unlike the US, there’s a lot more 73/74 series rusting away or written off and people parting them out in our area of the world. I’ve got 3 and chopped 2 up. One for car and one for a camper I’m building. Keeping the best one incase I change my mind on my cars setup.
Maybe buy another top to chop and keep original if you’re concerned?
Depending on where you put your back window the maximum payload in back is around 1220mm long. If the rear window is any further forward the cabin space for seating will be too tight (I’m 6ft).
I love my set up and is very handy for what I need it for. The rear wall and chopped roof keeps the mud out as you said when 4x4ing and for me keeps the aircon in.
Wheel arches in payload area isn’t an issue for me as I put a false floor in above them and drawers under.
You can buy the gull wing rear windows in glass (they are around $1000 ea) or solid which are around $800ea. I have seen a couple more companies in Aus start supplying lift up windows a fair bit cheaper but not sure on quality.
My build was to suit my needs so if you’re build is to carry your bikes on back to get up to those fantastic bike tracks in NZ i couldn’t think of a more capable 4x4.

 

[Billyfj7312ht]

BTW, one of the soft top companies is “top soft”. They are on facebook and instagram but I have heard conflicting reports about quality, missing parts and being months overdue once order is placed.
If you put a post on instagram with hashtags like 73 series/ 74 series they’ll approach you

 

[fullthrottle]

Cheers @Billyfj7312ht yeah you are right. I did a quick look around and a guy up the road is selling the FRP top plus rear doors for $500 NZD.

I'm at the age where I want a final build to enjoy. Go places and hey something that I like the look of.

Bloody nice looking truck of yours.

 

[FJBen]

That's something I haven't really looked into. Are you able to provide links on the suppliers of these tops?

I get what you're saying about the FRP top. The other problem I have is that the window frames in the top are rotten. The only replacement I've been able to find are those solid gull wings. $1k a side, plus I don't really like them being solid.
I've got an LX470 and had a 80 I rebuilt, here: My 80 matey restore, so wanted to try something a bit different than a fully enclosed 4x4, and to carry the MTB bikes. What @Billyfj7312ht looks pretty bloody good to me

I have a topsoft one. I agree as of lately it’s been hit or miss on quality/time of delivery so I’d be sure to research that one.
I had to modify mine some, and a few parts aren’t great, but I love the top.

Soft Top Frame Kit FJ73 S&H - https://www.citroa.com/shop/t7385-soft-top-frame-kit-fj73-s-h-508?category=17
Citroa also makes tops for 40s and 70s. Not sure on price but people like the 40s version.


If you have FRP tops you can get easily and cheap, I’d do that and cut em up. I would like another one to modify as well but I’m. It touching my current one. It is however getting a bit brittle.

 

[fullthrottle]

Well I've been wading around in pools of grease and oil. Well it seems like it anyway.

What was just an exercise to get the brakes working again has turned into a full brake, bearing, seal rebuild. Diff oil was escaping into the wheels bearings, there was crap everywhere.
Pulled one caliper out and the brake pad lining just disintegrated.

So finally stripped everything out, cleaned and cleaned and cleaned. Have it in a nicely arranged layout and just checking everything over for wear.

The wheel bearing washer has some wear in it. Not surprised as the preloading of the nuts was pretty low and the diff oil through them doesn't help. So the bearings would have been spining a bit....in the wrong way. Stub axle looks ok though. Seals are not great in the calipers, rotors very worn, knuckle bearings stuffed, seals....well what seals.

I must say, that design with the brake lines from the diff to baking plate, to caliper is weird. That right angle joiner mounted to the backing plated is odd why not just go flexible brake line from diff, directly to the caliper. It already has a nice mounting point where the steel line joins the flexible on the diff axle housing. And undoing it was a right pain in the ass.

Anyway, Merry Christmas and Happy Birthday truck. I bought you new seals and bearings all round, new rotors, calipers and pads. Have it laid out now and cleaned. Will put my OCD into overdrive and paint all the components up then reassemble.

Once it actually has brakes, I'll finish changing all the oils out and be looking forward to a drive to find out what is next in the drivetrain.

Rear brakes done, new shoes, cylinders, seals and a bloody good strip down and paint. Before and after...yes there was zero lining on those shoes.

I use this Bendix brake lube on the metal to metal parts. Just a light smear, but it works bloody well to help the internals move freely. Use it all the time on the catavan electric drum brakes.

Ceramasil Brake Parts Lubricant | Bendix Brakes | Bendix Brakes

Have absolute confidence with Bendix High Performance Synthetic Brake Lubricant. Lasting protection against friction, wear & corrosion!

www.bendix.co.nz

 

[Broski]

Beautiful transformation. Nice work!!