- Thread starter
- #21
Found the vacuum leak that was making the nice whistling noise. It's in the brake booster somewhere. With the booster connected the engine was pulling 17inHg and with the booster disconnected and line plugged it pulled 18inHg.
Biscuit's Keeping The FJ40 - Customization/Improvement Thread
- Thread starter Biscuit
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- Thread starter
- #22
Started the prep work for the transmission swap: pulled the seats and the gas tank cover. I would have gotten further (hoped to at least get the hump removed) had I not had to take the 
car for an oil change and then clean out the 's split Starbucks drink from behind the passenger airbag on my Jetta. 
With Christmas travel and work, this was most likely the last day I had in 2013 to work on the 40. I may have a few hours on the 29th. So much for getting the swap done this year.
car for an oil change and then clean out the 's split Starbucks drink from behind the passenger airbag on my Jetta. With Christmas travel and work, this was most likely the last day I had in 2013 to work on the 40. I may have a few hours on the 29th. So much for getting the swap done this year.
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There are now TWO off road adventures planned for the last weekend of January.
Motivation!
Motivation!
- Thread starter
- #24
If it wasn't for trip deadlines nothing would get done.
New target is to have the tranny/t-case out and separated New Years Day.
- Thread starter
- #25
Took advantage of the federal holiday today to get some work done on the transmission swap. I had intended to get the transmission pulled, but didn't quite get there.
Driveshafts are disconnected. On Saturday I'll finish pulling the transmission.
Driveshafts are disconnected. On Saturday I'll finish pulling the transmission.
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- #26
Taking a quick lunch break before unbolting a lowering the transmission and t-case.
The roll cage is doing double duty today as the framework for the lowering system.
The roll cage is doing double duty today as the framework for the lowering system.
- Thread starter
- #27
Lowering the transmission
And the three speed is out
I had to take apart the t-case linkage to clear the frame rail, but aside from the it rolled out easily with the furniture dolly.
Tomorrow I'll split the t-case off for inspection since I'm going to use my 3 speed t-case in place of the 4 speed t-case.
And the three speed is out
I had to take apart the t-case linkage to clear the frame rail, but aside from the it rolled out easily with the furniture dolly.
Tomorrow I'll split the t-case off for inspection since I'm going to use my 3 speed t-case in place of the 4 speed t-case.
Great idea , I was thinking of lifting up the hard top and bridge across the windshield frame , doors and roll bar to do that here soon . My throwout bearing is getting pretty loud thanks to the previous owner's lack of clutch rod setting knowledge .
Sarge
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #29
Pulled the clutch this afternoon.
Nice view looking up into the truck.
Nice view looking up into the truck.
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- #30
Ran into some problems this morning while attempting to remove the flywheel. I was able to keep the flywheel from turning, but even with the electric impact gun (200 ft-lb) I wasn't able to get any of the bolts to turn. I didn't spend too much to win each bolt as I saw no rotation of the socket.
Any thoughts aside from a more powerful impact wrench?
Any thoughts aside from a more powerful impact wrench?
They're prolly red-loctite-d .... Flame is your friend.
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- #32
That's what I'm thinking.
Also the lock plates weren't folded up to lock the bolt heads. I'm now wondering what else may have been overlooked by the shop that did the rebuild.
Also the lock plates weren't folded up to lock the bolt heads. I'm now wondering what else may have been overlooked by the shop that did the rebuild.
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Biscuit said:
I use a pry bar in the teeth of the flywheel to 'lock' it to the bellhousing, and a half inch breaker bar on the bolts. I had the same problem with the motor my customer bought from saryon7.
X2 I just pulled mine the other day With a breaker bar. If needed you could use a cheater pipe over the breaker bar for some more leverage.
- Thread starter
- #35
Got the flywheel off, but not out. The half inch breaker bar worked, no heat required (though I had a torch on standby).
The collectors for the headers runs just enough under the bellhousing to prevent the flywheel from dropping free.
Also found that the shop that installed my engine used an necessarily long bolt on the left rear engine mounts. I had to back that off to see if I could find a way to slide the flywheel out.
I think there may be project creep because of this. The old rusty exhaust may come out in favor of a stainless one run correctly. The two piece headers would be replaced with Tri-Y headers to move the collector farther forward. Then custom stainless exhaust the rest of the way back.
The collectors for the headers runs just enough under the bellhousing to prevent the flywheel from dropping free.
Also found that the shop that installed my engine used an necessarily long bolt on the left rear engine mounts. I had to back that off to see if I could find a way to slide the flywheel out.
I think there may be project creep because of this. The old rusty exhaust may come out in favor of a stainless one run correctly. The two piece headers would be replaced with Tri-Y headers to move the collector farther forward. Then custom stainless exhaust the rest of the way back.
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- Thread starter
- #36
Flywheel is out, finally.
For those that are wondering: here are the four bellhousing bolts the flywheel prevents access to.
Bellhousing removal is on deck for this afternoon.
For those that are wondering: here are the four bellhousing bolts the flywheel prevents access to.
Bellhousing removal is on deck for this afternoon.
- Thread starter
- #37
Bellhousing is out
I'm going to preventatively replace the rear main seal while I'm in here.
I'm going to preventatively replace the rear main seal while I'm in here.
Always wise to do.
DTSkyCop
SILVER Star
Love the progress pics. Following your progress... Keep up the good work!!!
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