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- #461
I was also considering the bling rims briefly, which actually don't look to bad.. Here is a photo chop of my last rig.. How ghey is it that I put enough time into it to actually photochop these wheels on there.. Anywhoo... 
Biodiesel Piggie #2 Buildup (was Sad Sad day...)
- Thread starter dieselcruiserhead
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- Thread starter
- #462
HEre are some other neat rims.. These are from a mud member BJowett who has them on an 80.. They are a 17" Tundra spare wheel, a little more OEM than even the FJ Cruiser wheels, less holes and more OEM FJ55 style pattern but they are about $90 each before shipping from Toyota.. Not sure its worth the $$ to have these versus the others.. They are pretty rare also, funny that I am almost willing to pay more for crappier wheels 
Also I found a set of the tundra bling rims for $250 locally complete with lug nuts and center caps..
Also I found a set of the tundra bling rims for $250 locally complete with lug nuts and center caps..
Why don't you put a 3.7 3rd in the rear... mod the center locker, pull the front driveline and swap in the 4.11 3rd to the back if/when you get out wheeling
J/K
Just for giggles I called a both of my gear suppliers... though there has been talk of making a RC 3.7, its never moved past that
Looking sweet
- Thread starter
- #464
I am in the middle of a web project with photoshop so for s***s and giggles thought I would debling the 17 rims a hair and make them look a little more natural in the photochop
I am in the middle of a web project with photoshop so for s***s and giggles thought I would debling the 17 rims a hair and make them look a little more natural in the photochop
you have issues my friend.
Andre- Where are you getting wheel adapters from?
On the tundra spare wheels, I always thought they looked really cheesey- they're the sort of wheel that would normally be hiding under a big plastic hub cap.
Too bad you're not running tall skinny's on 16s... I have the perfect wheel, although the front hub would stick out some.
On the tundra spare wheels, I always thought they looked really cheesey- they're the sort of wheel that would normally be hiding under a big plastic hub cap.
Too bad you're not running tall skinny's on 16s... I have the perfect wheel, although the front hub would stick out some.
- Thread starter
- #467
no wheel adapters required. Most would do that to get their wheels wider on their 80s since these have high back spacing. But that is actually exactly what I am looking for Yes not too much a fan of the bling rims but on certain rigs I think they look OK. Just not sure if IMO that is a FJ55
Yes not too much a fan of the bling rims but on certain rigs I think they look OK. Just not sure if IMO that is a FJ55 
I've got a set of Tundra steelies that look pretty good. I wish my 37s were 16". I'd be using them for sure with some weld on beadlocks. I ended up grinding my calipers to use my old 15"rims with the 80 axle.
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Sorry, I read that as you were going to use the H2 wheels.
I vote for aluminum. They're lighter, and maybe more "fancy" but that doesn't mean they have to be "bling."
I vote for aluminum. They're lighter, and maybe more "fancy" but that doesn't mean they have to be "bling."
- Thread starter
- #470
Again cheezy spending all this time talking about wheels but I think I'll end up with the FJ cruiser ones.. I have a lead on some cheap aluminum FJ cruiser wheels but not that interested....
Here are the FJ cruiser steelies, also semi cheap, I think I might end up with these?:
Here are the FJ cruiser steelies, also semi cheap, I think I might end up with these?:
For what it is worth I like the FJ steel wheels better then the Tundra's. I have seen an 80 with 40 replica wheels and hubcaps it looked pretty nice.
Ryan.
Ryan.
- Thread starter
- #472
found this pic of a 40 series on the FJ Cruiser alloys.. Have to say, I think this looks pretty good IMO:
Diesel,
I agree that the FJC wheels don't look too bad on the 40. I think they look much better then the black steels on the FJC.
I can't find a good picture of the wheels I am thinking about, but here is a shot of the 80 with the retro style 40 wheels.
Ryan.
I agree that the FJC wheels don't look too bad on the 40. I think they look much better then the black steels on the FJC.
I can't find a good picture of the wheels I am thinking about, but here is a shot of the 80 with the retro style 40 wheels.
Ryan.
i got some tundra rims like the ones you chopped in for a buddy for 35 bucks each out of a les schwab in springville... I really dig that style tundra rim but to each his own...
where are you getting the quote for 90 bucks a pop on them. i called cdan and got the quote of 130.....
where are you getting the quote for 90 bucks a pop on them. i called cdan and got the quote of 130.....
- Thread starter
- #475
I found the tundra alloys for $250 for a whole set if they are still there.. Not that bad a deal. Again I don't think they look too bad but not sure if they are right for the pig or not? What do you guys think from the photo chop? The steelies I can't find used anywhere, $50 each for the FJ cruiser steelies on ebay plus shipping, or about $90 for the tundra steel spare wheels (the ones on Bjowett's rig earlier). Or I found 5 brand new FJ cruiser alloy wheels for $400 which is a decent deal. Again I am starting to like the look of those more.. But I am still poor right now, so no funds for wheels at this point 
I did finally get a new grinder though, just now. The big Dewalt 10 amp, beefyiest they make. Got the extended warantee this time too, total was about $110 for it.. We at least have all our crap in the new shop. Had to get a big kerosene/diesel/hopefully biodiesel heater for the shop as this one doesn't have insulation. going to be down there tomorrow starting to organize. Currently looks like a bomb went off. I had no idea how much stuff I had. Also the old shop looked so big all cleaned out. Doh! Good news with grinder and new shop, back in action, hopefully some progress.. Been thinking quite a bit about different techniques for maybe getting a big ARB style front bumper on there, either custom or modded 70 series..
I did finally get a new grinder though, just now. The big Dewalt 10 amp, beefyiest they make. Got the extended warantee this time too
, total was about $110 for it.. We at least have all our crap in the new shop. Had to get a big kerosene/diesel/hopefully biodiesel heater for the shop as this one doesn't have insulation. going to be down there tomorrow starting to organize. Currently looks like a bomb went off. I had no idea how much stuff I had. Also the old shop looked so big all cleaned out. Doh! Good news with grinder and new shop, back in action, hopefully some progress.. Been thinking quite a bit about different techniques for maybe getting a big ARB style front bumper on there, either custom or modded 70 series..
- Thread starter
- #476
OK finally some updates...
First as mentioned I did a double move over the week/end of the 1st/2nd/3rd, took forever, moved both the shop and the moved out of my place in Midway back up here to Park City... All while this was going on for the most part...
First as mentioned I did a double move over the week/end of the 1st/2nd/3rd, took forever, moved both the shop and the moved out of my place in Midway back up here to Park City... All while this was going on for the most part...
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- #477
Didn't take too many pics of the actual move, took 5 20 ft. trailer loads to move from the old shop to this one, 3 of just tools and parts, and two of the vehicles (the cruiser and the Land Rover). Also no winch so we had to use the high lift as a winch to load the trucks, a few big long days. Anyway, here is the shop once we got almost everything in but still stuff all over the place... You can see much bigger and taller.. About 25 x 50 or so, the tail end of a long quanset hut/airplane hanger type building... Look up in the photos, neat body / engine removal beam with pulleys etc. This will be key
- Thread starter
- #478
We also share the space with some pretty neat old trucks, a '29 Ford that the owner plans to rat-rod ize, no paint, loud as hell, maybe lowered a little bit... And a pretty neat '58 Flareside Ford who I haven't met the owner of yet, plans to restore at some point.. Right now me/we are the only ones in there doing any real work... Also pretty neat, not one, not two, but three Ford flathead V8s including the one in the truck.. V8, but 1929, I think ~100 hp??
- Thread starter
- #479
This is also pretty neat.. In our shop is also: (see photo)... Not that I am a skater but used to be back in the day, still have my old Powell Peralta.. These guys come and session about once a week, a couple pretty good skaters...
One downfall is not as good heat though because the building isn't insulated and bigger space, so we forked down for this little crack torch.. Plan is to run this on bio also.. It runs on kerosene/diesel/jet fuel etc, multi fuel...
In our shop is also: (see photo)... Not that I am a skater but used to be back in the day, still have my old Powell Peralta.. These guys come and session about once a week, a couple pretty good skaters... One downfall is not as good heat though because the building isn't insulated and bigger space, so we forked down for this little crack torch.. Plan is to run this on bio also.. It runs on kerosene/diesel/jet fuel etc, multi fuel...
- Thread starter
- #480
Anyway, back to work.. Here is the mock up of the rear bumper again back on the truck. At this point I actually only had one hole drilled in the actual bumper. Couldn't figure out an easy way to drill press the holes into the angle iron while also being able to make sure the bumper would be 100% level and square so I resorted to drilling the holes while it was on there. Took FOREVER and went through a 5/8" bit...
Half way through I attempted to give up and went over to my buddy's shop to borrow this tool, basically a magnetic drill press. Magnet turns on and it doesn't go anywhere, bits also last for a long long time/forever... Expensive tool though, I think they are around $500 or so...
Half way through I attempted to give up and went over to my buddy's shop to borrow this tool, basically a magnetic drill press. Magnet turns on and it doesn't go anywhere, bits also last for a long long time/forever... Expensive tool though, I think they are around $500 or so...
