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yeah we just went with the diameter of the turbo outlet and ran it back. Didn't think about it at the time. Talk about wasted money. Maybe I'll cut it just under the driver side and add a 2.5 in to 4 inch muffler, will that help?
 
Cruiserbrandon,
Thanks for posting and sharing your insight with me/us. I'm on this forum for the most part because I want to learn from everyone else' experience. Learning from others will save me a lot of trial and error and more importantly money. I've driven Diesels a lot, know which ones I love, which ones can handle a mission and which ones to keep in the garage. I however, other than basic fluid changes, never had to tune or rebuild one. We have mechanics for that. This is also my first Cummins.
As far as my rig goes, I have a 2.5 inch straight exhaust pipe, I thought it would be enough, but I may be wrong and that's why my Pyro is high. It's an inline pump with an intercooler. I'm borrowing a friend's turbo CHRA for the time being, mine just arrived today. The one I ordered has matching serial numbers with the turbo housing, so hopefully that helps even if a little bit. As far as what kind of engine I want, I want reliable, bullet proof. Not necessarily the fastest engine ( its a 4X4 in the end). MPG are also important, but I can sacrifice one or two miles for durability. I'm looking forward to more of your advice and experience as well as anyone else who was something to share. Thanks.
Mike

Huge exhaust is gonna be better, as big as you can get. I ran dual 2 1/2 on my 6bt which really is only about 4 inches of volume. This whole 5, 6, 7 inch and bigger is for the purpose of more fuel with less heat. Bigger exhaust also helps with spool up.

I forgot you where p pump, which is good since they are a stronger pump, but not good from my standpoint cause all my knowledge is with the VE. I did some research on the P pump and Ill tell you what I would do to tune it.

I believe you have the stock "baby h1" turbo on it so couple things that will help for now without changing much would be smaller exhaust housing, something like a 16cm instead of the 21 which I believe is stock. Injectors are key to Cummins, I went with POD injectors (Prince Of Darkness) and they do as the name says, they feed fuel and lots of it. The Bosch injector I believe part number 185 is actually smaller than stock but has a higher POP pressure so it atomizes fuel better, if you want effeciency the Bosch injector would be your best option, if you want all out power the POD injectors are good and fuel mileage can be had with the right tuning.

Google search P7100 AFC diaphram, it will be a 4 screw cover that has a diaphram not much different than a gas engine carb. Pull those 4 screws and pull the diaghram out, there will be a spring and a "star" wheel. Turn the start wheel back 2 or so turns this will only feed more fuel with higher boost levels. On top of the cover with 4 screws on it there will be a cap, pull that off and you will see a allen head screw with lock nut, back that screw all the way out, this is the preboost (smoke screw). Then move your fuel plate forward in 1/8 inch increments until you get a light gray haze that will only become darker under full boost.

This will give you the best of both worlds, little fuel at idle and cruising and as long as you stay out of the boost fuel mileage will sky rocket, expect to see 2 mpg just by messing with the star wheel and afc diaghram. On the flip side when the turbo spools its gonna feed enough fuel to keep it going strong but not before the turbo spools, thus getting the exhaust through the turbo and out the tailpipe without melting stuff, you will prob see a drop in egts overall by backing the star wheel out.

Any changes make 1 at a time and drive it so if something goes wrong or you dont like it, vice versa if it feels good then you know what to either take away or do more of.
 
Huge exhaust is gonna be better, as big as you can get. I ran dual 2 1/2 on my 6bt which really is only about 4 inches of volume. This whole 5, 6, 7 inch and bigger is for the purpose of more fuel with less heat. Bigger exhaust also helps with spool up.

I forgot you where p pump, which is good since they are a stronger pump, but not good from my standpoint cause all my knowledge is with the VE. I did some research on the P pump and Ill tell you what I would do to tune it.

I believe you have the stock "baby h1" turbo on it so couple things that will help for now without changing much would be smaller exhaust housing, something like a 16cm instead of the 21 which I believe is stock. Injectors are key to Cummins, I went with POD injectors (Prince Of Darkness) and they do as the name says, they feed fuel and lots of it. The Bosch injector I believe part number 185 is actually smaller than stock but has a higher POP pressure so it atomizes fuel better, if you want effeciency the Bosch injector would be your best option, if you want all out power the POD injectors are good and fuel mileage can be had with the right tuning.

Google search P7100 AFC diaphram, it will be a 4 screw cover that has a diaphram not much different than a gas engine carb. Pull those 4 screws and pull the diaghram out, there will be a spring and a "star" wheel. Turn the start wheel back 2 or so turns this will only feed more fuel with higher boost levels. On top of the cover with 4 screws on it there will be a cap, pull that off and you will see a allen head screw with lock nut, back that screw all the way out, this is the preboost (smoke screw). Then move your fuel plate forward in 1/8 inch increments until you get a light gray haze that will only become darker under full boost.

This will give you the best of both worlds, little fuel at idle and cruising and as long as you stay out of the boost fuel mileage will sky rocket, expect to see 2 mpg just by messing with the star wheel and afc diaghram. On the flip side when the turbo spools its gonna feed enough fuel to keep it going strong but not before the turbo spools, thus getting the exhaust through the turbo and out the tailpipe without melting stuff, you will prob see a drop in egts overall by backing the star wheel out.

Any changes make 1 at a time and drive it so if something goes wrong or you dont like it, vice versa if it feels good then you know what to either take away or do more of.

Found another pic showing a small plug on top the pump that you can access the starwheel without pulling the diaghram which is even cooler, pop that out first and crank that bad boy tighter first as well as advance timing then feel where your at. Then start adding fuel plate increments as soon as you like the difference in EGTS. Wish I was close so I could tinker with you I love these old oil burners, so much can be done with a couple hundred bucks and a screw driver.
 
figured it's time for an update. Mounted the AC, but still need to hook it up. the tach is in now as well. you can stand on the ac bracket that Edwin made and it won't move.

ac.jpg



ac2.jpg

Now comes fixing the little things, like cutting the ac hose and playing around with the fuel pump.

ac.jpg


ac2.jpg
 
the alternator seems to work well, no issues yet, time will tell, in which case I'll upgrade to a better one. As for the tach we had to get an autometer tach and place it where the stock one goes. I'll take a picture of it and post it in the morning. I need to tighten up the drain plug, has a slow drip. It's just marking it's territory in my driveway now.
 
as promised, here is a picture with the tach and other gauges. The shift knob looks larger than it really is because of the angle, it's about the size of a cue ball.


in the cab with the tach.jpg

in the cab with the tach.jpg
 
Here are some poser pics. Went on a family outing and loaded the kayak. It's so hard to load it when you have a broken knuckle and torn ACL and meniscus.

in my backyard in front of the shed
in front of the shed.jpg

At the park
at the aprk.jpg

Another angle at the park
Halo at the park.jpg

in front of the shed.jpg


at the aprk.jpg


Halo at the park.jpg
 
Small update. The ac bracket broke today while the diesel mechanic was test driving it. Now he's going to reweld it and reinforce it.

ForumRunner_20130601_205142.jpg

ForumRunner_20130601_205142.jpg
 
On a more positive note, this is what's been done so far.

Still looking for an airbox that will fit and the snorkel should be arriving any day now.

ForumRunner_20130601_205704.jpg



ForumRunner_20130601_205720.jpg



ForumRunner_20130601_205738.jpg

ForumRunner_20130601_205704.jpg


ForumRunner_20130601_205720.jpg


ForumRunner_20130601_205738.jpg
 
Any updates?

Snorkel arrived today, but I wasn't at home so I have to wait till tomorrow. The ac is welded back on and reinforced. Need to hook it up and test for leaks. The pump has been adjusted. Then its installing the snorkel and testing it with everything on there.
 
Here's an update. The air box is made and installed. The AC bracket is rewelded and the snorkel should be getting redelivered any hour now.

ForumRunner_20130605_084005.jpg



ForumRunner_20130605_084020.jpg



ForumRunner_20130605_084032.jpg

I might change the air filter to a cone to allow better induction. It just looks restrictive right now. All that's left is charging the ac and test driving. I'll install the snorkel this weekend during our club get together.

ForumRunner_20130605_084005.jpg


ForumRunner_20130605_084020.jpg


ForumRunner_20130605_084032.jpg
 
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