I think I have what you need. Not painted, of course
, but you are welcome to it.I'll get a pic tonight...
Ed
Big Gay 2F Build Tech (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Trollhole
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I think I have what you need. Not painted, of course
, but you are welcome to it.I'll get a pic tonight...
Ed
If this is what you need, PM me your address and I'll get it out tomorrow.
Ed
Ed
- Thread starter
- #303
that looks like what I need.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
Jim you are absolutely correct on this. There is no heater hose cap in the world that will last more than a few weeks over the exhaust manifold. I must have replaced it 4 times before I got pissed and put on the Fj40/55 heater elbow without the extra nipple. the last time it went out on me on the freeway and coolant went all over the place, to the point it found its way into the cab. not fun having 190 degree coolant leak test the firewall on a 67 fj45(which proved to leak alot, although mostly on the passenger side.)
If you are going to delay doing the swap, toyota makes the longest lasting heater hose caps. Dont even bother with the Help autoparts brand. they will give up before you even get them out of the packaging.
HIJACK: Do you have any part numbers for non-gay Toyota heater hose caps? Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #306
Fuel lines.
Note: cannot use steel rods to weld thin steel fuel lines. Holes will follow. Thought about just soldering it but I thought it might not hold up to vibration.
First attempt. Ended up cutting it out. Both of them.
Went with a flux coated braising rod.
Will be making to attachment points for it. One in the rear and one on the valve cover.
Also got the temp gauge and sender installed. Had to tap the holes out to 3/8 18. No drill bit was needed since the holes were the pefect size.
Another brain tickler. Have three things I plan on running off the original location of the oil pressure sensor. Manual gauge, OP sensor for the stock gauge and another sensor for the oil pressure low light. I need a hose to go from the original location to a manifold of some sort. Thoughts?
Note: cannot use steel rods to weld thin steel fuel lines. Holes will follow. Thought about just soldering it but I thought it might not hold up to vibration.
First attempt. Ended up cutting it out. Both of them.
Went with a flux coated braising rod.
Will be making to attachment points for it. One in the rear and one on the valve cover.
Also got the temp gauge and sender installed. Had to tap the holes out to 3/8 18. No drill bit was needed since the holes were the pefect size.
Another brain tickler. Have three things I plan on running off the original location of the oil pressure sensor. Manual gauge, OP sensor for the stock gauge and another sensor for the oil pressure low light. I need a hose to go from the original location to a manifold of some sort. Thoughts?
Maybe a bit overkill, but you could put in a remote filter setup, and tap off of it.
What I put in my 62.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
get another banjo bolt that have the boss for threading in the gauge. Swap out the bolt(you'll need another copper washer and another o-ring. then you can put one sender on one boss, and on the other use a tee and install the smaller of the two senders and the capillary tube for the mech. gauge.
Also, when you brazed the two fuel lines together, did you just butt them up or flare one out for a slip fit. I didnt have much luck getting the brazing to hold with such a small surface area in a past brazing project. I would be concerned that vibration might take its toll.
Also, when you brazed the two fuel lines together, did you just butt them up or flare one out for a slip fit. I didnt have much luck getting the brazing to hold with such a small surface area in a past brazing project. I would be concerned that vibration might take its toll.
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To clarify Brett's post:
The Ghey engine is an 85-87 , so it has a 1/8" BSP oil sensor hole in the filter base.
There are 2 large banjo bolts that hold the oil cooler core to the cast iron base.
Earlier engines with oil cooler (77-83) have one of the banjo bolts tapped for the oil sensor.
To install up to 3 sensors (oil press, oil temp, idiot light), swap one or both of the untapped banjos for the early tapped banjos. If you have the time & skillz, drill & tap the banjo bolts yourself.
The Ghey engine is an 85-87 , so it has a 1/8" BSP oil sensor hole in the filter base.
There are 2 large banjo bolts that hold the oil cooler core to the cast iron base.
Earlier engines with oil cooler (77-83) have one of the banjo bolts tapped for the oil sensor.
To install up to 3 sensors (oil press, oil temp, idiot light), swap one or both of the untapped banjos for the early tapped banjos. If you have the time & skillz, drill & tap the banjo bolts yourself.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
Jim,
thanks for the clarification. Thats what I meant(although I forgot the base was tapped for the gauge in the later cruisers, so it works out even better.) SOR.com has the banjo bolts for the oil cooler used for pretty cheap. Also, be sure to use a new o-ring and copper washer. I didnt the first time I swapped them like this and it leaked. Its cheap and the bolts can be a pain to deal with in the truck.
thanks for the clarification. Thats what I meant(although I forgot the base was tapped for the gauge in the later cruisers, so it works out even better.) SOR.com has the banjo bolts for the oil cooler used for pretty cheap. Also, be sure to use a new o-ring and copper washer. I didnt the first time I swapped them like this and it leaked. Its cheap and the bolts can be a pain to deal with in the truck.
My guess is that you "swaged" the steel tubing joints before you brazed them Marshall. Because while flaring would represent just a minor advantage over a simple butt joint, "swaging" would make the joint the strongest part (without question).
But by "flux coated braising rod" are you referring to "silver brazing alloy" because that would be my choice in that situation?
Silver brazing alloy is VERY expensive because it contains silver but I have never heard of it being sold in "flux-coated form" before. (Must be a new improvement and I haven't bought any in a long time. I'm still running off "old supplies" and I use white flux powder from a jar mixed with water to form a paste.)
Silver brazing alloy is the ultimate in my opinion. And it is available with varying silver content. (With higher silver content rods being better suited to the ferrous metals - even good with stainless!) It flows similar to lead/tin solder but melts at a higher temperature and is much stronger and more corrosion resistant.
Sorry. Couldn't help myself here - but having a background in refrigeration/airconditioning means I used to use that stuff often.
But by "flux coated braising rod" are you referring to "silver brazing alloy" because that would be my choice in that situation?
Silver brazing alloy is VERY expensive because it contains silver but I have never heard of it being sold in "flux-coated form" before. (Must be a new improvement and I haven't bought any in a long time. I'm still running off "old supplies" and I use white flux powder from a jar mixed with water to form a paste.)
Silver brazing alloy is the ultimate in my opinion. And it is available with varying silver content. (With higher silver content rods being better suited to the ferrous metals - even good with stainless!) It flows similar to lead/tin solder but melts at a higher temperature and is much stronger and more corrosion resistant.
Sorry. Couldn't help myself here - but having a background in refrigeration/airconditioning means I used to use that stuff often.
- Thread starter
- #313
I did HVAC work for 4 year out of college. This was a must when installing or fixing a leak.
- Thread starter
- #314
My guess is that you "swaged" the steel tubing joints before you brazed them Marshall. Because while flaring would represent just a minor advantage over a simple butt joint, "swaging" would make the joint the strongest part (without question).
But by "flux coated braising rod" are you referring to "silver brazing alloy" because that would be my choice in that situation?
Silver brazing alloy is VERY expensive because it contains silver but I have never heard of it being sold in "flux-coated form" before. (Must be a new improvement and I haven't bought any in a long time. I'm still running off "old supplies" and I use white flux powder from a jar mixed with water to form a paste.)
Silver brazing alloy is the ultimate in my opinion. And it is available with varying silver content. (With higher silver content rods being better suited to the ferrous metals - even good with stainless!) It flows similar to lead/tin solder but melts at a higher temperature and is much stronger and more corrosion resistant.
Sorry. Couldn't help myself here - but having a background in refrigeration/airconditioning means I used to use that stuff often.
Yep. Northern didn't carry silver bearing braising rods. Ended up just getting the regular stuff. In the past I used SilFlow. Great stuff. Just wasn't sure how it would do for steel.
No problem at all with steel Marshall - And it will even do stainless steel (which is more difficult still) provided you've bought a rod with sufficient silver content.
- Thread starter
- #316
why not just bend new lines??
multiple oil senders..
The extensions coming out of the TBI have a funky flare to them. I was only available to find ones about 18 inches long. I bought the extension pieces from NAPA and was to lazy to go get another set after I hosed up on the first try.
Also the MAP sensor for the TBI come off the throttle body. Not wanting more hoses everywhere I think I will add another section of steel tubing to run from the base to the rear of the motor and keep it looking clean.
- Thread starter
- #317
Good stuff. Since aftermarket gauges and sensors are 1/8 npt I think I'll just drill and tap them.
- Thread starter
- #318
Marshall, I dig the sig 
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- #320
Got a box from UPS today. Guess what's in it?