Big Gay 2F Build Tech

[Trollhole]

Wondering though, are those untreated steel bolts mounting the carb base to the intake manifold? If so the the aluminum is going to light them up. Might I suggest a fine bouquet of stainless steel bolts instead.

Feel better.

Gauges. Not happy with the oil pressure gauge. But it will work until I can find a braided hose 2ft long with 1/8 npt fitting on the end.

Oil pressure warning light (sender is allready mounted)

 

[Trollhole]

Alright now we are getting somewhere.

This is what the exhaust manifolds were bolted to. By far a nasty mess.

Yanked them off and sent them to be ceramic coated for $100 dollars.

This is what I got back.

Inside and out.

They are really nice. And for being silver and not chrome I think they look really good. I looked at the chrome compared to these and there was virtually no difference due to their rough texture.

 

[Trollhole]

Getting close.

Mockup is almost done. Had I not screwed up the manifold gasket trying to drill the extra holes I would almost be done. Also still waiting on some hoses from Toyota and the welder to fix the distributor. The connector for the Throttle Position Sensor is the wrong style. Waiting on an answer if I can just put a different end on it or if it's gonna need that and the ECU reprogrammed. Tomorrow I'm gonna start stripping the 40 for taking the motor out.

Enjoy

You can see in this pic the MAF sensor vacuum tube I fabbed up today.

Downey suggested to use the vacuum source on the TBI (green plug on TBI) BUt I thought it would be better to use the one from the 2f (red).

Question.

Brake vacuum location.
There is really only one other souce for vacuum for the booster. It's the 1/8 port on the back end of the intake manifold. It has funky fins and it really has a small little port. Is this where I should be connecting my brake booster?



This is what I was thinking for the exhaust. Ideas?

 

[Spike Strip]

Is it just me, or is this engine starting to look pretty damn cool ... ?

 

[69fj4069]

Cool I love legos! Do you know if those headers would work with an older 2f head without the extra bolts?

 

[Trollhole]

Cool I love legos! Do you know if those headers would work with an older 2f head without the extra bolts?

I wouldn't see why not. I'm sure someone will chime in though.


Today I started stripping the electrical out of the engine compartment. All of the wires below had nothing to do with the stock components. Most did nothing. What a mess.

Looks a hell of a lot better without the stuff.

 

[Bad Coco]

I like that air cleaner holder. Will it work on an aisin carb. And if so where did you get it. Thanks, Eric

 

[RumBum]

That is a gay color. Who would paint anything silver on that pretty engine. What a waist. This thread is queerer than 3-dollar bill.

 

[Trollhole]

I like that air cleaner holder. Will it work on an aisin carb. And if so where did you get it. Thanks, Eric

Downey and only fits TBI that I know of.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Do you know if those headers would work with an older 2f head without the extra bolts?

Yes. You said it, the extra bolts are extras. 83-earlier 2Fs have the 6 12mm bolts, but not the 6 extra 10mm bolts. So the manifolds are compatible in either direction.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Getting close.

Downey suggested to use the vacuum source on the TBI (green plug on TBI) BUt I thought it would be better to use the one from the 2f (red).

The red pipe coming from the center of the intake is for the PCV. You could use the Tee fitting that is in the PCV hose right above the PVC as a source of central manifold vac.

Brake vacuum location.
There is really only one other souce for vacuum for the booster. It's the 1/8 port on the back end of the intake manifold. It has funky fins and it really has a small little port. Is this where I should be connecting my brake booster?

Either of the fittings in the back half of the manifold can be/ have been used. The 1/8" in the top is used on later trucks. The 3/8NPT hole in the side is used on earlier trucks.

Unrelated note:
The heater pipe on the side of the FJ60 engine will not be pointing anywhere near the FJ40 heater hose at the firewall. Best to clean the FJ40 heater pipe now and install it on the FJ60 engine. It may be necessary to move one or both of the studs in the pushrod cover.

 

[Trollhole]

The red pipe coming from the center of the intake is for the PCV. You could use the Tee fitting that is in the PCV hose right above the PVC as a source of central manifold vac.


Either of the fittings in the back half of the manifold can be/ have been used. The 1/8" in the top is used on later trucks. The 3/8NPT hole in the side is used on earlier trucks.

Unrelated note:
The heater pipe on the side of the FJ60 engine will not be pointing anywhere near the FJ40 heater hose at the firewall. Best to clean the FJ40 heater pipe now and install it on the FJ60 engine. It may be necessary to move one or both of the studs in the pushrod cover.

My concern is the hole size for the brake booster. It seems so small. Maybe a 1/16 of an inch. I thought I might drill it out.


Heater pipe will just have to loop over the head. I looked at the auto parts store yesterday for a heater hose that had a 90 in it and for another hose for the valve cover vent. Ended up just using an elbow for the vent and regular heater hose for the other.

I've got the distributor apart and painted. Getting my welder back today to finish that.

Converting a big cap distributor over to be used by the TBI computer.

This large (breaker bearing was not working well). It was very hard to turn as most of the original grease had dried up. I'm assuming that this could be some issues for 40's or 60's as this would probably prevent the distributor from advancing or retarding.

You can also see the marks I used for reference so it all goes back correctly. I will be butting a bead on this bearing to keep it fixed as the computer controls the spark from now on.

Saw these small pieces broken in the bottom. I'm assuming this is a piece from the counter weight system. Could be an issue in the distributor working correctly.

I'm pretty sure this is where the broken piece should be. I'm sure this would cause issues with timing.

Other than that I have been installing all the hoses. I've replaced the o rings for the oil cooler. Installed the gauges. A/C compressor is in (though it will be coming out for the install).

Tonight I'll be installing the manifold gasket and tourqing the head down. Not much left to do except the alt and psp. Should have those done tomorrow.

 

[thebludger]

NICE mate DAMM NICE top pics and info

 

[Coolerman]

Yep, I have it from an inside source that that little black piece of plastic is supposed to be the stop pin bushing. Without it the timing will be a bit retarded at rest and the max timing will be about 6 degress more than it normally would be. Jim C. should be able to explain this issue better than me and can probably provide you with the bushing. Not that you need it since the computer will be doing the timing but for anyone else in this boat.

Neat pics of the problem, I added them to my archive!

 

[FJ40Jim]

My concern is the hole size for the brake booster. It seems so small. Maybe a 1/16 of an inch. I thought I might drill it out.

It can be drilled out some.
But they didn't make it large for a reason.
Because they didn't want it to be possible to mash the power brake pedal and cause such a significant loss of vacuum that the engine could stall. The vacuum for power brakes is stored in the booster itself, and replenished through the hose.

Heater pipe will just have to loop over the head.

Not that heater hose.
The heater pipe that runs along the top edge of the pushrod cover. It connects to the heater box at the rear, and into the big tee that is in the lower rad hose.

The pipe is shaped differently at the back end, depending on what vehicle it is matched to. compare the FJ60 pipe to the 40 pipe and they are quite different at the back end.

I looked at the auto parts store yesterday for a heater hose that had a 90 in it and for another hose for the valve cover vent. Ended up just using an elbow for the vent and regular heater hose for the other.

The heater hose from cyl head to heater valve is just a loop of regular hose.
But heater hose does not last long for oil vapor breather hose. It will get soft and start to ooze in short order. The OEM breather elbow is worth the $10.

I've got the distributor apart and painted. Getting my welder back today to finish that.
Saw these small pieces broken in the bottom. I'm assuming this is a piece from the counter weight system. Could be an issue in the distributor working correctly.
I'm pretty sure this is where the broken piece should be. I'm sure this would cause issues with timing.

Yep, that's the remnants of the nylon governor pin bushing.

 

[Trollhole]

It can be drilled out some.
But they didn't make it large for a reason.
Because they didn't want it to be possible to mash the power brake pedal and cause such a significant loss of vacuum that the engine could stall. The vacuum for power brakes is stored in the booster itself, and replenished through the hose.


Not that heater hose.
The heater pipe that runs along the top edge of the pushrod cover. It connects to the heater box at the rear, and into the big tee that is in the lower rad hose.

The pipe is shaped differently at the back end, depending on what vehicle it is matched to. compare the FJ60 pipe to the 40 pipe and they are quite different at the back end.


The heater hose from cyl head to heater valve is just a loop of regular hose.
But heater hose does not last long for oil vapor breather hose. It will get soft and start to ooze in short order. The OEM breather elbow is worth the $10.

All good stuff. Now I know what you are talking about. Will figure a solution out. Maybe could just use the one off the 76 2f.

Breather tube is good to know. Will check the EPC and see what I can find.

 

[Trollhole]

Alt tech

Wanted a one wire alt. Wanted to use the stock bracket. Wanted a high output alt.

Did some research on CS-130 Alternators. Lots of power options. My local alternator shop had one that I THOUGHT would work that was 180 amps. Picked it up today for 145 dollars. Not a bad deal.


As you can see it looked like it would fit. Just needed to rotate the mounting holes.

Needed to drill out the bottom hole. So the alt would fit with no modifications incase I needed to replace it on the road.

First to remove the three bolts and rotate. 1/4 12point socket worked.

before

after

The stock cruiser pulley needs two washers behind it in order for it to fit. If you don't add these when you tighten it down it will deform the fins.

Drilling out the bushing and front mount.

I put this washer behind the bushing but found out later it made the belt aff center so this washer goes against on the front side. Belt alignment is perfect on the first pulley groove.

In order for the alt to fit and have some adjustment you mist grind on the 2f alt bracket. Still plenty of metal.

And now we come to my issue. The tensioner doesn't fit. Dooooooooohhhhh.

SO I'm going to go back to the alt store and see if they have a front cover that has the tabs straight across from each other. If not I might just move the tab back and use a turnbuckle to adjust tension. I will say the stock belt fits this location perfectly.

 

[smkymntn]

Looks fantastic Marshall- Great progress. Makes me want to send some of my bits to the powder coater.

 

[Trollhole]

Looks fantastic Marshall- Great progress. Makes me want to send some of my bits to the powder coater.

Thanks.


Got a little bit more done today.

 

[Southeast Overland]

The limp 2F is coming out tomorrow!... or should I say the old 2F is coming out so the limp 2F can go in???