HOW-TO: 5th Gen 4Runner Brakes on an 80 (1 Viewer)

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I'm still finalizing the last few pieces of this upgrade but wanted to share the details with folks. I've seen a few other brake upgrades that involve different rotors and a bit of machining but in my opinion this is the easiest way to get bigger brakes without the extra work. I've seen a few guys running this hub/rotor/caliper setup now for quite some time and haven't seen any reported issues. I've yet to see a detailed write-up using this configuration so that's where I come in!

Let's start by buying some stuff. You'll want to make sure you get the calipers from the earlier 5th gens (2010-2013) with 14WA stamped into the caliper. The later year models switched to a 14mm mounting bolt vs our 12mm mounting bolt. These will have 14WB stamped into the caliper. Caliper specs:

5TH GEN FRONT CALIPER (14WA stamping, For 338mm rotor (All Trims)
Toyota Part #: 47750-60300 - LH, 47730-60300 - RH
Mounting Bolt: 12mm
Piston Size: 48mm
Bleeder Size: M7 x 1.0
Inlet Size: M10 x 1.0

And here are the specs on the rotor:

5TH GEN FRONT ROTOR (For 14WA front caliper (All Trims))
Toyota Part #: 43512-60191
Outer Diameter: 338mm
Thickness: 31.8mm
Hub hole: 108mm
Bolt hole: 14.4mm

I've read of issues with sticking calipers whether new OEM and reman so I just decided to go with aftermarket to take advantage of the long warranties. For the calipers I went with new aftermarket (not reman) Raybestos units. Part numbers are FRC12551N and FRC12552N.

Here's a comparison of the stock 80 calipers and the 4Runner calipers. The 80 Series Caliper Piston OD is 45.3mm or 1.7835". The 4Runner Caliper Piston OD is 48mm or 1.8898". Credit to @Dirty Koala for providing the math and specs on these things.

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For rotors I also went with aftermarket from R1. I went with their Carbon GeoMet cross drilled and slotted version because I hate money and like flashy parts. 311mm/12.2" vs 338mm/13.3", a whole inch bigger.

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First step is figuring out the caliper mounting. Now, the 4Runner caliper will bolt up directly to the 80 knuckles no problem. But because the rotor has a deeper hat and we're not doing any machining of the hub, the rotor will sit DEEPER over the knuckle compared to the 80 rotor. This then means the caliper needs to be spaced BACK. Based on what I heard from other that have done this, the caliper needs to be spaced back about 10mm.

On the FB 80 page someone found these machined spacers that looked to do the trick. They have an ID of 12.09mm (perfect for the mounting bolt) and are 9.52mm thick.

Here's the link: 12 mm ID 316 stainless washers spacers - https://www.extsw.com/collections/12mm-id-316 Be sure to order a few extras as you will always need these to mount your caliper.

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You will also need longer bolts. I used M12-1.25 x 45mm 10.9 bolts. Here is the caliper bolted up to the knuckle with the machined spacers and longer bolts.

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The next step is figuring out how to mount the rotor to the hub. The stock 80 rotor has threaded holes and bolts up behind the hub. The 5th gen 4Runner rotors are slip-fit in stock configuration. Our hubs will not work for slip-fit unless you do a lot of machine work to the hubs, something I didn't want to do. So we're gonna bolt them up in a lugcentric configuration.

For this I used longer M12-1.25 x 40mm bolts and M12-1.25 open-ended acorn bulge lug nuts. Here's the hub taken apart with longer bolts.

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Back side of the hub. You'll notice I had a hub centering ring here. Based on what I read from others, they recommended 108mm to 106mm rings to help center the hub over the rotor. However I feel this isn't needed because of the lug centric nuts we're using.

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The back side of the rotor showing the beveled hole which matches nicely with the acorn bulge lugnuts.

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I used orange Loctite and cranked them down to about 14 3/4 Ugga Duggas. Here you can see the hub centering ring still installed.

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Here's the approx 2mm difference between the hub and the rotor with the ring removed after you tighten everything down. As I mentioned, several people have been running these for a few years now with no issue. It's really no different than when you install aftermarket wheels in a lugcentric setup vs OEM wheels that are hubcentric.

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And the final assembly

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As mentioned above, the 4Runner has a deeper rotor hat and since we simply bolted it to the back of the 80 hub, it will sit deeper over the knuckles. This means you need to do a little bit of grinding to clear the rotor. Here you will see the spots that required grinding on my knuckle. The grinding on the back steering stop is to clear the caliper. Because I'm running Hellfire knuckles with more material up top, I had to do a bit more grinding to clear the nut and a socket due to the caliper being spaced back by about 10mm. All in all this is quickly taken care of with a flap wheel.

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NOTE: since I'm running high-steer and don't have lower steering arms, I had nothing to grind here. But your lower steering arms will also require a bit of grinding to clear the rotor.

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With that out of the way we can mount the rotor/hub assembly back on the spindle. Here's the final clearance after grinding.

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Lower caliper mount.

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And we can finally put the caliper over the rotor!

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The 9.52mm machined spacers are just about perfect. With everything mounted up, I measured the distance between the surface of the rotor and the inside of the caliper housing. Not sure if this is the best place to measure but it's where I could get a consistent flat surface. With this setup I'm at about a 1.3mm difference between each side which is 0.05", basically nothing. I really don't see this causing an issue but if you really needed it to be perfect, it seems like an 8mm wide spacer would be just right.

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Joined
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Brake pads look nicely aligned with the rotor

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And that's pretty much how you mount up 5th gen 4Runner rotors and calipers without any machining! There are still a few odds and ends I'm working on while I complete my brake overhaul. I'll share these below as some might be relevant, but are mostly unique to my setup.

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Okay so brake lines. The 4Runner caliper uses a standard hardline fitting with the same Toyota M10-1.0 inverted flare found throughout our trucks. However our trucks use a 10mm banjo fitting on the caliper. From what I read you can run the standard OEM banjo fitting on these calipers, but the banjo bolt might be too long. You can either cut the bolt down a tiny bit or run extra copper washers. Or you can swap out to different lines and eliminate the banjo fitting all together.

My setup has all custom brake lines due to the 3 link so I converted to SAE/AN fittings all below the frame. This makes it much easier and cheaper to find the right fittings and hoses you need in any size/length.

For the caliper I chose a 35 degree angled 10mm banjo fitting that convers to -3AN and uses the factory bolt.

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However this resulted in a minor issue I'm still trying to sort through. Because I have coilovers, the banjo bolt will hit my coilover mount at full turn. I don't want to lose any turn radius and don't want to grind my coilover mount so I'm in the process of looking for lower profile banjo bolts and trying to find a slimmer banjo fitting. Most of you won't have this issue I think.

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As part of my brake overhaul, I'm running all new lines as mentioned. Here is the passenger side being converted from metric to standard.

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Driver's side. I also re-routed this one.

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Re-routed and re-ran the rear brake line as well (deleted LSPV years ago).

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New Seiken booster and master cylinder from the one-ton T100 trucks (Advics/Aisin BMT-139, non-ABS).

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With the bigger 4Runner calipers you want an MC with a bigger bore to keep the same pedal throw. Thanks again to Dirty Koala for the math. The stock 80 MC has a 1" bore. The T100 has a 1-1/16" bore which when combined with the 4Runner brakes, maintains almost the exact same leverage ratio as stock. If you upgraded the brakes but didn't upsize the MC, you'd increase your leverage ratio/pedal throw by about 12% (6.5667 to 7.3728).

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On the firewall I also cut out all the factory lines and re-did everything. I removed the entire section that goes under the battery box as well.

Here I was staring to run the lines for the front brakes with a new tee.

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The rear port had a proportioning valve from when I deleted ABS/LSPV years ago. For this setup I relocated the valve and mounted it on a homemade bracket. You can also see here where I re-routed the rear and front-driver brake lines to drop down under the booster, running along the fuel lines.

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I should be close to wrapping everything up here soon so I'll report back and see how it goes. If this don't fix my mushy brakes I'm burning down the truck :cheers:
 

YMT

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El Portal, CA
Nice write up!

So, have you done a cost breakdown (I suppose I could do some work, but just curious)?

It sounds like a T100 MC, 5th gen pads and rotors and some cheap spacers (since I'm too lazy to do actual machining) and some Toyota 10 mil brake lines is all that's needed, for factory axles/suspension? Or are the hub rings needed?

No knocking your write up, just looking at parts listed/needs to do this
 
Joined
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Messages
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Nice write up!

So, have you done a cost breakdown (I suppose I could do some work, but just curious)?

It sounds like a T100 MC, 5th gen pads and rotors and some cheap spacers (since I'm too lazy to do actual machining) and some Toyota 10 mil brake lines is all that's needed, for factory axles/suspension? Or are the hub rings needed?

No knocking your write up, just looking at parts listed/needs to do this

Let's see, I'll try to recall what I spent on the bare minimum requirements:

$185 - Raybestos calipers, Summit
$250 - rotors and pads, R1 concepts
$100 - T100 MC, eBay
$20 - caliper spacers, EXTSW
$30 - longer bolts for hubs and calipers
$15 - acorn lug nuts, Amazon

So about $600 for the basic upgrade, assuming you just reuse your existing brake lines and banjo fittings. I did buy the R1 rotors and pads during a 30% off sale however.
 

on the rocks

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However this resulted in a minor issue I'm still trying to sort through. Because I have coilovers, the banjo bolt will hit my coilover mount at full turn. I don't want to lose any turn radius and don't want to grind my coilover mount so I'm in the process of looking for lower profile banjo bolts and trying to find a slimmer banjo fitting. Most of you won't have this issue I think.
Nice affordable route for sure. With the MC included even but I think you can pull this upgrade off without it to save more money. I need to drive a non modified 80 to compare but feel no mush at all on the brakes post swap.

May consider a 90 degree fitting out of the caliper on the banjo bolt clearance. This would require another brake line extension though unfortunately.
Willwood uses this on their calipers but they have an odd thread caliper side. I'm sure available somewhere with the M10 x 1.0 thread. Not sure why they chose to use the Banjo fitting other than ease of removal?

Cool to see the 300 coming with a 6 lug pattern, hopefully even more options in the next few years!

Any reason you didn't upgrade to M14 on the studs since pressing out anyway?

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Bravo dude. My hat is off to you for doing this; pulling all the information and pieces together in a easy to follow way. I hate money too, but not as much as you😃

I don' know man, your avatar says otherwise ha! And thanks, glad you found it helpful. I was able to get bits of pieces of information from other online but it was difficult to know exactly what it entailed until I dove in. It was hard to spend $600 without knowing if I could get it to work so hopefully this helps others jump in.
 
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Nice affordable route for sure. With the MC included even but I think you can pull this upgrade off without it to save more money. I need to drive a non modified 80 to compare but feel no mush at all on the brakes post swap.

May consider a 90 degree fitting out of the caliper on the banjo bolt clearance. This would require another brake line extension though unfortunately.
Willwood uses this on their calipers but they have an odd thread caliper side. I'm sure available somewhere with the M10 x 1.0 thread. Not sure why they chose to use the Banjo fitting other than ease of removal?

Cool to see the 300 coming with a 6 lug pattern, hopefully even more options in the next few years!

Any reason you didn't upgrade to M14 on the studs since pressing out anyway?

View attachment 2633261

Yeah I think it can be done without the MC as well. I've had the mushy brake problem for a while now so the last thing I wanted to do was create more pedal travel.

I searched all over the place but could not for the life of me find a right angle fitting like that in M10 1.0 inverted flare. I thought about making my own hardline, but with your average manual bender it's almost impossible to get a tight radius 90 degree bend. It would end up sticking out more than the banjo fitting.

With regards to the hubs and M14 studs - the reason I didn't want to do any machining or additional work on the hubs is that I plan to switch them out soon for the chromoly studless hubs along with different spindles. With a little bit of machining on these hubs, the 5th gen rotor then becomes slip-fit. Since I'll be getting work done on the hub, I will most likely upgrade to M14 wheel studs at that time. Here's 2 instances of the studless hubs and slip-fit 5th gen 4Runner rotors/calipers:

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cruisermatt

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Great info Jose.
We just did this swap on a 60 (but with FZJ80 rear axle), and definitely had mushy pedal with the 80 MC. We were looking into the T100 MC so it’s good to see the math supports it
 

leonard_nemoy

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Great work as always and awesome write up.

Someone should put together kits for this and sell them. I would pay an extra $100.00 to avoid the hassle of sourcing all the parts.
 

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