Best Upgrades for Under $100 (200-Series) (4 Viewers)

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For the antenna?

Does not interfere with hatch as i have attached it to the hatch. 73

I have the same mount, just on the opposite (passenger) side, since my radio is mounted under the "wing" of my ARB drawers on that side. No interference at all. The cable is very thin, and the connector is pretty small. I went to the trouble of running the cable under the plastic trim and through the rubber conduit at the top of the hatch. It was a pain be came out nice and neat.

This is the antenna I use:

Amazon product ASIN B00WOLQ9G2
Had it tuned by a local Ham with a nice meter, very low SWR. It does stick up above the roof to whack the garage door, though.
 
I have the same mount, just on the opposite (passenger) side, since my radio is mounted under the "wing" of my ARB drawers on that side. No interference at all. The cable is very thin, and the connector is pretty small. I went to the trouble of running the cable under the plastic trim and through the rubber conduit at the top of the hatch. It was a pain be came out nice and neat.

This is the antenna I use:

Amazon product ASIN B00WOLQ9G2
Had it tuned by a local Ham with a nice meter, very low SWR. It does stick up above the roof to whack the garage door, though.
I let it "self-adjust" (wack) in and out of the garage as well. I take the antenna off and leave the mount when I go thru the car wash. I got a cap for the mount that I throw on.
 
Make your own quad air hose ~$75. Aside from being able to air up (or down) 4 tires at once (or just 1 or 2), it allows the connected tires to equalize in pressure.

Tank valve goes in the center of the T fitting. Air hoses screw into the other ends, and one Y manifold per side of the rig.

4 closed-flow chucks: $17
chucks

3x 25ft 1/4" air hoses. You can get one long hose for less, but i wanted all the crimped ends: $36
Hoses

Tank Valve: $7
Tank Valve

brass T: $8
1/4" NPT Female Tee Barstock Brass Pipe Fitting 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" NPT Female - - Amazon.com

2x Y manifolds: $10
Interstate Pneumatics FBY44 1/4 Inch Brass Hose Barb Y Manifold Fitting - Pipe Fittings - Amazon.com

Hose Clamps: $5
Precision Brand M6S Micro Seal, Miniature All Stainless Worm Gear Hose Clamp, 5/16" - 7/8" (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 
Make your own quad air hose ~$75. Aside from being able to air up (or down) 4 tires at once (or just 1 or 2), it allows the connected tires to equalize in pressure.

Tank valve goes in the center of the T fitting. Air hoses screw into the other ends, and one Y manifold per side of the rig.

4 closed-flow chucks: $17
chucks

3x 25ft 1/4" air hoses. You can get one long hose for less, but i wanted all the crimped ends: $36
Hoses

Tank Valve: $7
Tank Valve

brass T: $8
1/4" NPT Female Tee Barstock Brass Pipe Fitting 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" NPT Female - - Amazon.com

2x Y manifolds: $10
Interstate Pneumatics FBY44 1/4 Inch Brass Hose Barb Y Manifold Fitting - Pipe Fittings - Amazon.com

Hose Clamps: $5
Precision Brand M6S Micro Seal, Miniature All Stainless Worm Gear Hose Clamp, 5/16" - 7/8" (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Any chance you could post some pictures too?
 
Sorry, I thought everyone knew about these....

Aside from the convenience of airing up multiple tires at a time, I think the best feature is equalizing air between tires and making them the exact same pressure.

- All 5 air entry points are default closed, so air won't move until you use one of them.
- connect as many tires as you want, and the highest pressures move to the path of least resistance until they are all equal.
- add air to the tank valve like you would a regular tire (and check your pressure from here)
- don't go crazy long with your air hoses, only cut to length that you'll need. This will minimize wasted air from filling up all the hoses.
- you can also use 2 of the chucks to move air from your max inflated spare to another tire without the use of a compressor.
- don't forget to use the tank valve to release all of the pressure out of the hoses when you're done using it.




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I like to wrap the clamps so the cut ends don't scratch anything.
B43FD7F3-8EFD-4319-80FC-8DA7FEA8C444.jpeg
 
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That is awesome, it is going on my project list. Thanks!

Maybe a stupid question, but do you use it to air down all four tires at once too?
 
You can, but it will take a while. Screw a deflator on the tank valve and it will release air out of the entire system. I'm not sure what the throughput of one schrader valve is, but it would work.
 
Looking at the Carfax of used 100s and 200s, I've noticed a trend that many Cruisers seem to have been in minor to moderate rear-end collisions. Which is hilarious because I don't know how you don't see a 3-ton hunk of steel in front of you, but I digress. I think using one of these would be a no-brainer. Cheap insurance.

16829556-50D6-4BA8-A535-AC448A8B491B.jpeg
 
I disagree, instead of a load spread across the crossmember you'd be focusing the load in the middle where the hitch mount is...

You might protect the Tupperware and end up with frame damage instead.

Not sure if you've been under the bumper cover, but the rear crossmember is welded to the frame, and the hitch mount is welded into the rear crossmember. It isn't a bolted on hitch mount like many vehicles use.

63F0FE21-065B-4499-BBFA-8B4E4F0C6542.jpeg
 
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I have one of those for low-speed shunts in stop-and-go traffic and people who can’t parallel park. I came back to my car once and found the step a bit squashed but my bumper undamaged. Judging by the bits of plastic on the floor i don’t think their bumper did so well.

interesting point regarding a higher energy impact. The step isn’t very substantial so i would assume it squashed or buried in the opposing front crumple-zone and the full rear of the cruiser takes the blow.
 
I see your perspective.

I think of it this way - the plastic is the sacrificial crumple zone. Let that get buggered up in a low speed collision, rather than have the full energy directed into the middle of the frame crossmember. If you move the crossmember, you tweak the alignment of the main rails. I'd rather replace plastic and paint than deal with frame damage.

I live in a rural area, so I don't generally encounter ultra slow speed parking accidents. You may have a different environment.

I would categorize a device like above as a damage multiplier.

That being said, I fully support you in using one.
 
In autumn of 2018 I got rear ended in my Tacoma. I had a ball hitch installed, and it transferred force to the frame, and to me, exactly as @CharlieS described. Not doing that ever again. Hitch stays empty, or with something very low/profile flat.
 
I disagree, instead of a load spread across the crossmember you'd be focusing the load in the middle where the hitch mount is...

You might protect the Tupperware and end up with frame damage instead.

Not sure if you've been under the bumper cover, but the rear crossmember is welded to the frame, and the hitch mount is welded into the rear crossmember. It isn't a bolted on hitch mount like many vehicles use.

View attachment 2312280
Hmm, that's interesting. I didn't know that. I guess it's probably not a good idea then. Definitely not worth sacrificing frame damage over plastic + paint
 
Hmm, that's interesting. I didn't know that. I guess it's probably not a good idea then. Definitely not worth sacrificing frame damage over plastic + paint

Forget the frame; think of the people inside.

I'm still dealing with back issues as a result of that accident I mentioned above.
 
Hmm, that's interesting. I didn't know that. I guess it's probably not a good idea then. Definitely not worth sacrificing frame damage over plastic + paint

My wife was at a stoplight in our 200 when she was rear ended by a girl that was texting. Speed limit was 35 mph, so safe to conservatively estimate that she was traveling between 30 and 40 mph. My wife heard no braking and there was no visual evidence to that end either. Ended up having to replace the rear bumper cover and the lower tailgate skin and assorted bits. I always knew these trucks as robust, but I was pleasantly surprised. The X3 the other girl was driving was totaled. I’ll try to post picks.

As an aside, please remove your hitch from the receiver if you are not using it. It’s pointless to have it there.
 
Make your own quad air hose ~$75. Aside from being able to air up (or down) 4 tires at once (or just 1 or 2), it allows the connected tires to equalize in pressure.

Tank valve goes in the center of the T fitting. Air hoses screw into the other ends, and one Y manifold per side of the rig.

4 closed-flow chucks: $17
chucks

3x 25ft 1/4" air hoses. You can get one long hose for less, but i wanted all the crimped ends: $36
Hoses

Tank Valve: $7
Tank Valve

brass T: $8
1/4" NPT Female Tee Barstock Brass Pipe Fitting 1/4" x 1/4" x 1/4" NPT Female - - Amazon.com

2x Y manifolds: $10
Interstate Pneumatics FBY44 1/4 Inch Brass Hose Barb Y Manifold Fitting - Pipe Fittings - Amazon.com

Hose Clamps: $5
Precision Brand M6S Micro Seal, Miniature All Stainless Worm Gear Hose Clamp, 5/16" - 7/8" (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
That is awesome, it is going on my project list. Thanks!

Maybe a stupid question, but do you use it to air down all four tires at once too?

You can air down all four at the same time, also do different pressures front and rear by removing 2 hoses part way through.

I didn't go the DIY route, but bought a preassembled version called MORRFlate it's been fantastic. I use it with a Smittybilt 5.8 and can do my 33s (all 4) in 10-15min total
 

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