Best Upgrades for Under $100 (200-Series) (3 Viewers)

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A new shift knob is a must.
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I see your perspective.

I think of it this way - the plastic is the sacrificial crumple zone. Let that get buggered up in a low speed collision, rather than have the full energy directed into the middle of the frame crossmember. If you move the crossmember, you tweak the alignment of the main rails. I'd rather replace plastic and paint than deal with frame damage.

I live in a rural area, so I don't generally encounter ultra slow speed parking accidents. You may have a different environment.

I would categorize a device like above as a damage multiplier.

That being said, I fully support you in using one.

This got me thinking...the hitch is attached to the last crossmember...but the hitch receiver at least on my 2019 juts out past the rear bumper plastic (see pic below). There is no "crumple zone" behind the rear bumper plastic fascia. Basically, the plastic rear bumper makes the rear crossmember pretty. There is no foam or any other impact absorbing material as you would see in other passenger cars. Just thin molded plastic...and the receiver itself is actually in "front" of the plastic fascia.

So, in a significant rear collision, the thin plastic on either side of receiver will give way fast and you're still looking at most (if not all) force concentrating on the protruding hitch receiver, which is at the center of the rear crossmember. I just don't see how the plastic bumper with no force-absorbing materials behind it would help much, if at all. And the receiver itself juts out just past the plastic fascia anyways...so that initial force will slam on the rear crossmember with or without the plastic around it.

Whether you have a hitch step or towing hitch attached to the receiver, you're still seeing 99% (if not 100%) of rear collision force hitting the receiver, and thus all that force on that ONE point on the rear crossmember. My 101% uneducated guess is that the force of the collision will buckle the crossmember inward first (due to force on receiver) and then be evenly divided on both frame rails. The buckling and division of collision force are what (hopefully) decreases the "shaken egg" syndrome on the passengers inside the cabin.

(What will make rear collision worst i think is the aftermarket rear steel bumpers! The steel bumper may help in minor bumps, but a forceful rear collision will then transmit all that force directly onto the heavy steel bumper which then transfers all of that PLUS the 100-150 extra pounds of non-deformable steel to the frame at many times the force of a stock bumper.)

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Also, that weathertech hitch step is all plastic. I can't see it doing anything at all in a wreck.
 
You get tap to signal, selectable hazard flash sequence and speed, and arrival and departure illumination. Also fully compatible with LED turn signal bulbs (no hyperflash).

But no 2016😢
 
Did the Lonkey steering wheel cover this evening. Less than 2 hours but it wasn't very enjoyable. Sweetwater 420 helped. Thanks for the tips y'all

* I should add: best tip ever was pull the #2 fuse in the main fuse block behind the battery - the Horn fuse - you are all up on this thing, contorting *

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I have the same wheel cover (well, with red stiches). The heat works fine and isn't delayed. It is a nice aesthetic upgrade.

My only complaint is that the seam just above 3:00 and 9:00 for the loncky cover doesn't align with the underlying seam between the wood and leather, they are quite a bit offset. I have a '13, so maybe it was cut for/works better on other years?
 

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