So the 100 series came in 1st place 8 out 9 years in production class. It will be interesting to see if the 200 or any other make or model can repeat these results.
Best shock for "high-speed offroading" on a 100? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 1loudLX
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What is the deal with the price difference between OME and ironman/ swayaway? 
Spresso: Whats the way to go about getting your fox/ billis revalved??
Thanks
Spresso: Whats the way to go about getting your fox/ billis revalved??
Thanks
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What height you wanting to run ?
I would be getting a set of Fox shox made, and running not the ironman thicker T bars, as the heavier the T bar the more chance it will break the fingers off the adjuster [thats what we see here] on your driver side.
You could also run the T bar and a coil over, as the chassis mounts are made for AHC as well, so same A arms, same chassis part No's, so a coil over to add to spring pressure of T bar would work.
I would run a engine bay brace if planning this as well.
Rears can be fitted up piggy back with click adjusters like the FJ cruiser units.
We have been running Fox in the desert on 100's weighing 9000 lb non remote res and havent seen any issues as yet.
That type of touring for us is high range normally.
2.0 hyd bump stops would also be a good addition.
We also weld up the front arms, to stop them cracking from hitting the bump stop.
I would be getting a set of Fox shox made, and running not the ironman thicker T bars, as the heavier the T bar the more chance it will break the fingers off the adjuster [thats what we see here] on your driver side.
You could also run the T bar and a coil over, as the chassis mounts are made for AHC as well, so same A arms, same chassis part No's, so a coil over to add to spring pressure of T bar would work.
I would run a engine bay brace if planning this as well.
Rears can be fitted up piggy back with click adjusters like the FJ cruiser units.
We have been running Fox in the desert on 100's weighing 9000 lb non remote res and havent seen any issues as yet.
That type of touring for us is high range normally.
2.0 hyd bump stops would also be a good addition.
We also weld up the front arms, to stop them cracking from hitting the bump stop.
- Thread starter
- #24
The man has spoken! I guess I should have just said "Australian offroading" setup. Whats this about coilovers and an engine bay brace? Ive never heard of a engine bay brace, got pictures? So would you say that the non-remote res Foxes would work for me about the same as the the remotes? Hydro Bumpstops, damn now we're getting high tech. My heads spinning from all these crazy ideas now, thanks Darren!
I really want to setup my truck (eventually) to bomb down fireroads and desert trails...doubt I'll ever go to Moab and crawl on rocks. It should also still be able to have well mannered onroad handling, since I DD it and drive, A LOT! I want to have a setup closer to a rally/dakar type truck. Obviously I should get a FJCruiser and get a TC long travel kit but those dont come with the 2UZ, so I'll work with what I have instead.
I really want to setup my truck (eventually) to bomb down fireroads and desert trails...doubt I'll ever go to Moab and crawl on rocks. It should also still be able to have well mannered onroad handling, since I DD it and drive, A LOT! I want to have a setup closer to a rally/dakar type truck. Obviously I should get a FJCruiser and get a TC long travel kit but those dont come with the 2UZ, so I'll work with what I have instead.
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What can you do out on the trail if/ when this happens?? If anything....?
Sorry loud, not trying to hijack your thread! But bringing up tons of questions!
- Thread starter
- #26
I thought about asking that myself, no worries. The more info on this forum the better, I see ive got a few thousand ahead if I want to get the suspension setup I really want.
What is the deal with the price difference between OME and ironman/ swayaway?
Spresso: Whats the way to go about getting your fox/ billis revalved??
Thanks
Here's the disassemble instructions: http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/RemoteResRebuild.PDF
You need nitrogen and a refill tank and gauge for refilling. Fox sells a rebuild tool kit minus the tank and nitrogen.
Compression and separate rebound "washers" control the resistance of the flow of fluid in the shock body. These washers are available in different thicknesses & diameters to provide different fluid flow characteristics. I have increased the compression valving about 30% from the original valving for better control. I had this done to the rears but now need to revalve the fronts...which is on my list of "to do's".
One of the many neat features of a shock design like the Fox is that they are completely tunable and also rebuildable. They aren't cheap...however you get what you pay for...sometimes
.
Lets say you wanted fox shocks, but did not want the extra grab because of the modified mounting for the rear shock. What is the problem with running Foxs up front, and lets say OME in the back??? If any.....?
Well...if you didn't want to do the mod like mine moving the rear shock mounts behind the axle just go with the Foxes from Carl. They, as mine, will need to be revalved but that's no big deal. There are a bunch of shock shops that will do it for $25 or so if you don't want to mess with it. And I believe you could order them from Fox with whatever valving you want...as long as you know what you want/need. You will want to protect the rear Fox piston's from debris spray from the front tire if mounting in the stock location.
I wouldn't want Fox and OME on my rig...they are dramatically different dampers!
The foxes from carl, do not have the seperate reservoir correct? What is the added benefit with the extra res like you have?? Im guessing more/ quicker response..
The reason i ask all these questions is because my OME are getting a little on the worn out side, and would like to better my on/ off road ride... So i figure the more questoins i ask the better chance i will have an improved ride. 
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OK, will work backward from here,
If you try and run OME [crap] and Fox, the car will feel to stiff at the better controlled end, and transfer movement to the end not so well controlled, and will feel like sh1t....
We are using Fox Bolt on with 3-4" lift for 100 IFS so no mount changes required, and we have valving that suits as well we use out here [ordered from Fox] we also have them for 80/105 120 prado/ nissan patrol, navara, etc.
The 100 ones we use require a 30mm rear bump spacer [inner and outer] and slinky coils to stay captive, as they are a 12" stroke shock. The fronts are longer, and allow a taller ride height, and more travel.
They would be firm on a more standard weight truck, but you would be able to drive it on fire trails etc with some air pressure out at 50% more speed than most "normal" OME type 2" lifts, as a guide. Sometimes faster than that on certain objects, sometimes a little less.
Road handling improves, less lean, [we also do stronger sway bars]less nose dive under braking, and we run a different wheel alignment spec to improve the handling and stop it wearing the outer edges of the front tyres.
Hyd bumpstops would help maintain the 50% faster and make it more gentle on the truck.
A for the broken fingers on the adjuster, without a welder, your driving home on the bump stop.
photobucket is currently down for maintenance, but will post some pics tomorrow showing ride height, articulation etc.
If you try and run OME [crap] and Fox, the car will feel to stiff at the better controlled end, and transfer movement to the end not so well controlled, and will feel like sh1t....
We are using Fox Bolt on with 3-4" lift for 100 IFS so no mount changes required, and we have valving that suits as well we use out here [ordered from Fox] we also have them for 80/105 120 prado/ nissan patrol, navara, etc.
The 100 ones we use require a 30mm rear bump spacer [inner and outer] and slinky coils to stay captive, as they are a 12" stroke shock. The fronts are longer, and allow a taller ride height, and more travel.
They would be firm on a more standard weight truck, but you would be able to drive it on fire trails etc with some air pressure out at 50% more speed than most "normal" OME type 2" lifts, as a guide. Sometimes faster than that on certain objects, sometimes a little less.
Road handling improves, less lean, [we also do stronger sway bars]less nose dive under braking, and we run a different wheel alignment spec to improve the handling and stop it wearing the outer edges of the front tyres.
Hyd bumpstops would help maintain the 50% faster and make it more gentle on the truck.
A for the broken fingers on the adjuster, without a welder, your driving home on the bump stop.
photobucket is currently down for maintenance, but will post some pics tomorrow showing ride height, articulation etc.
The remotes will not affect shock damping. They provide additional fluid for better heat dissipation and fade resistance for long stretches of higher speed washboard.
I don't know if there is a way to mount remotes ala OEM rear shock placement or not; there isn't much room/space atop the OEM rear mount area for the remote fittings and line exit from the shock.
Darren,
Are you saying you are getting 3"-4" of front lift on an IFS hundy? If you are how are you avoiding/dealing with the ill caster affects and the more severe steering ends and CV shaft angles and resulting degraded performance and durability?
Are you saying you are getting 3"-4" of front lift on an IFS hundy? If you are how are you avoiding/dealing with the ill caster affects and the more severe steering ends and CV shaft angles and resulting degraded performance and durability?
- Thread starter
- #35
This is getting to be a good thread! Keep the stuff coming. Where could one source the stiffer sways here in America?
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We are running a 31" front fender to rim measurement keeping minimum down travel normally, [17" rim] and a 4" slinky coil in the rear so we end up with about 2" of rake [33.5" rear measurement] on a std truck, less on a truck with some rear weight like drawers, fridge, bar, l r tank etc.
The bump spacers also allow for 35" tyres to be used.
With diff drop [we are working on more drop at the moment] we arent seeing any performance or reliability issues, with trucks with 140,000km + on them now.
The lower A arm ball joints seem to be what goes first, the steering joints all seem to last as long, with tyre width and rim offset having more of an impact on those.
We have one truck we have done as the featured 100 next week I think.
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Photobucket back up, so, some pics.
100 IFS 35's Fox shox, slinky coils, diff regear, brake upgrade etc etc
80 2" OME lift on 285's same place
ride height at around 8800 lb
front travel
100 IFS 35's Fox shox, slinky coils, diff regear, brake upgrade etc etc
80 2" OME lift on 285's same place
ride height at around 8800 lb
front travel
WOW...that sucks!
Assasin: What torsions are you running??
thanks!
thanks!
I'd luv to see the "long travel front 100 suspension". There might be a SMALL improvement though I don't see it happening without chewing up parts unless there is a huge redesign! Plus, comparing the 100 Long Travel to an 80 front travel is just BLANK.
Not as good of angle of course:
Not as good of angle of course:
