Best shock for "high-speed offroading" on a 100?

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A pic is worth 100 words :meh:

We use T bars from the same manufacturer [who makes OE as well] as ARB, and most others.

ShottsUZJ100 said:
I'd luv to see the "long travel front 100 suspension". There might be a SMALL improvement though I don't see it happening without chewing up parts unless there is a huge redesign!
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Great thing to be thinking, can you go into some more detail though, on what you think is required, and how long it should be tested for to be proven, for the benefit of those who may be looking at it and wondering what to re design ?

And what areas would you suggest people who might be doing this should be looking at for failing parts that would prompt the redesign ?
 
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Assassin_Offroad said:
Great thing to be thinking, can you go into some more detail though, on what you think is required, and how long it should be tested for to be proven, for the benefit of those who may be looking at it and wondering what to re design ?

And what areas would you suggest people who might be doing this should be looking at for failing parts that would prompt the redesign ?
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I am one who thinks keeping as many of the overbuilt LC OEM parts on-board while modifying a rig is a priority unless certain aftermarket ones take the truck to a whole other level.

In the 100's case, nobody has shown that to any of us as of yet. By OEM design, the limit of lift is about 2.75" front and 3-4 inches rear (about 3 if you don't want wierd rake. The challenge is the front.

**I am not a fan of swapping arms and bits in order to gain .5 to 1.0" more front travel. The off-road gain is miniscule and it can stress other front-end parts.

**Until we see new arms and knuckles and the like where travel and lift are truly increased, I think selling extra parts to add in almost nothing is a waste and one that compromises reliability.

The 80-series is another story...an "easy lift" gains about 3-4 inches or a bit more than on the 100-series. In the 80's case, 6" kits are available that require all kinds of added parts and ones that can fail. I have such a lift and hate it (and parts have failed). That said, it's a credible option on the 80 because at 6" vs 3" lift you take the truck to an entire other level (even larger tires, more clearance, etc). NO SUCH KIT EXISTS FOR THE 100-SERIES WHICH IS MY POINT.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
I am one who thinks keeping as many of the overbuilt LC OEM parts on-board while modifying a rig is a priority

In the 100's case, nobody has shown that to any of us as of yet.

**I am not a fan of swapping arms and bits in order to gain .5 to 1.0" more front travel. The off-road gain is miniscule and it can stress other front-end parts.
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So back to original question, what parts should be checked, that would require a redisign for more travel? [how much effort/cost to go the extra more than 2" of extra travel in the pics above]

And what parts are you seeing as an isue with extra lift and travel that people should keep an eye on ?

What extra parts are you thinking are a waste ?
 
Trunk Monkey said:
Really?
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oh he means business mr monkey.


Darren, I'd still like to see what you mean by an engine bay brace, where exactly would you bolt/weld this I assume custom fab piece up? I'm still trying to figure out how to make the best out of my options since I'm in no immediate direct need of a lift, since I have the AHC already. Instead of doing a normal OEM style fox shock I think I'll go the custom mount route like spress did to give me more options including the remote res shocks.
 
I think it may be more of a shock tower brace that runs through the engine bay, than an engine bay brace. I can't imagine tying the fenders to the cowl or any other body mod that would help the strength.
 
Don't know if they are availaible here, but "Koni Heavy track" would be a number one choice (no remote res)
I'm in touch with many guys using them accross desert, on trucks extra loaded, and they all claim they won't change anymore. (I guess they compare to OME, Bilst or OEM, they didn't try Fox)
But the speed is not their goal
A friend (a friend of mine to be more accurate) could give some information, he works pretty close to the Paris-Dakar organisation.
I'll ask him about
 
We have had no success with Koni on the 100, and cost wise for specials, they will blow the budget on "special" builds being around $880 ea as a starting point without remote res.

Thats why we stopped using them 8 years ago.

Engine bay brace, shock mount brace, all do the same thing :hillbilly:

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I would be running it from the top of the shock mounts though, to truss them across the car, stop the chassis rail trying to twist from the force of the shock, and bump stop on the bigger bumps.

Also, back to konis, we played with Bus shockws from Koni re valved to suit back in the mid 90's, and they were around $500 ea back then, trying to get cruisers to handle like they should, and they had a real sweet spot, where they would be what you wanted for a month, then taper off, rebuild, great... for a month, and taper off.

With both the Bilstein, and Fox, we have ended up with a greater consistancy across the board, full, empty truck, smaller bumps, bigger bumps, corrugations, mile after mile.
 
Assassin_Offroad said:
So back to original question, what parts should be checked, that would require a redisign for more travel? [how much effort/cost to go the extra more than 2" of extra travel in the pics above]

And what parts are you seeing as an isue with extra lift and travel that people should keep an eye on ?

What extra parts are you thinking are a waste ?
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2" extra travel? I thought droop didn't mean anything? :D

Seriously...I added travel to the rear via a bolt-in shock change. To add in more travel up front would require a ton more expense and I don't see the worthiness.

If I'm going to spend BUCKS above what a bolt-in OME setup costs (which take the mods almost to the very limits of the front end and fits 35" tires), then I want:

More Lift (a kit with new knuckles and at least 4" front lift with OEM CV angle)
More Travel (a kit with longer arms/CV's..in the beighborhood of about 12" travel)
A true, work together bolt-in kit (sold from one supplier with the above parts)

Adding a couple inches a travel on the front axle while keeping the rest the same doesn't add much to the vehicle's capabilities (something you criticized me for earlier).
 
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So what your really saying then is what you want is those things, not that they are a problem preventing the extra travel.

We have found the extra travel no problem, and not chewing out any parts, I guess what you have heard, or been told has made you think what you are currently about the front end ?

We have 40-50-100,00km on trucks out there with these mods that arent showing any issues. Bigger wheels do seem to wear the steering ends faster though, but not expensive, easy fixed, and worth the extra maintenance.

The parts you are looking for, for the type of wheeling you do, are available now, if you want the have them made, but demand will never be great enough for that model to be mass produced.

But that wasnt what this thread was about either.



shotts said:
Adding a couple inches a travel on the front axle while keeping the rest the same doesn't add much to the vehicle's capabilities (something you criticized me for earlier).
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No, I spoke with you about only adding .6" when we did the sums between longer shock, and bump stop spacer, just to clarify, but thats another topic. and when you add extra length to the front of ifs 100, you get double that length in travel, 2-1 ratio, because of where its mounted on the A arm vs the pivot point ;)
 
I would disagree based off of experience. The additional travel I have makes a night & day difference.

[Adding a couple inches a travel on the front axle while keeping the rest the same doesn't add much to the vehicle's capabilities (something you criticized me for earlier).[/quote]
 
ringpinion.biz said:
I would disagree based off of experience. The additional travel I have makes a night & day difference.

[Adding a couple inches a travel on the front axle while keeping the rest the same doesn't add much to the vehicle's capabilities (something you criticized me for earlier).
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Me too...it did on the rear and it cost me nothing...a bolt-on shock. Luv it!

On the front...I'll not pay the 4-figure amount to simply gain a tad of front travel. For 4-figures I expect more for my money especially if I have to start trading out LC OEM parts.

That's the difference I am getting at. At some point the cost doesn't justify the end. Would I pay $3000 for a true 4-inch lift, 12-inch front travel, L-shock or greater rear travel, and near OEM CV angle? YES....TOMORROW....THOUGH NO SUCH AN OPTION EXISTS. :mad:
 
At 3k you could do home brew solid axle conversion :)
 
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