So is that better? usually when the environmentalist get involved in something they restrict somewhere and not often agree with machinery.
Thank you !
Best replacement radiator for the money today... (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thank you !
One could argue that the tighter fin pitch increases cooling efficiency.
When I put a T.Rad in my truck I ordered the one it was spec’d for, which happened to be the more expensive one. No regrets as I probably wont need to touch it for another 20 years.
When I put a T.Rad in my truck I ordered the one it was spec’d for, which happened to be the more expensive one. No regrets as I probably wont need to touch it for another 20 years.
I’ve kept track of this thread over the years dreading not being able to get a radiator in time if it goes, and now here I am asking for advice when I should have trusted my gut and done preventative replacement. Came home today with steam coming out from under the hood, and drips of coolant coming off the bottom of the radiator, lucky to not overheat…Looks to be original from 1998.
I see prices at $370 for 16400-50360 and $490 for 16400-50290, and suggestions the latter is the better radiator but inconclusive - I’ll likely prioritize by when I can get one to my door. What else am I replacing while I’m in there? I see rad hose #1 (16571-50150) and #2 (16572-50150). Do these include replacement camps?
I also have a pulley that is making noise, and suppose there’s no time like when the rad is out to replace it - what else?
I see prices at $370 for 16400-50360 and $490 for 16400-50290, and suggestions the latter is the better radiator but inconclusive - I’ll likely prioritize by when I can get one to my door. What else am I replacing while I’m in there? I see rad hose #1 (16571-50150) and #2 (16572-50150). Do these include replacement camps?
I also have a pulley that is making noise, and suppose there’s no time like when the rad is out to replace it - what else?
Clamps need to be purchased in addition to the hoses.
When I replaced my radiator I also replaced every single coolant hose and clamp except for the 2 heater hoses underneath the truck (which looked fine), and the rear oil cooler hose (which looked difficult to access without further teardown). I removed the throttle body to clean and also replaced the throttle body gasket. I also replaced the clamps on the 2 transmission cooler hoses that connect to the bottom of the radiator.
I also replaced the serpentine belt tensioner - which is easier with the radiator and fan shroud out of the way.
When I replaced my radiator I also replaced every single coolant hose and clamp except for the 2 heater hoses underneath the truck (which looked fine), and the rear oil cooler hose (which looked difficult to access without further teardown). I removed the throttle body to clean and also replaced the throttle body gasket. I also replaced the clamps on the 2 transmission cooler hoses that connect to the bottom of the radiator.
I also replaced the serpentine belt tensioner - which is easier with the radiator and fan shroud out of the way.
Clamps are sold separately. Radiator hose clamps are typically reusable unless it’s really rusted/corroded and/or shape is distorted.
My local shops carry Peak coolant, but only the pink for Japanese vehicles. Any hot takes on OEM vs parts store coolant? Happy to do more frequent coolant flushes if red (5y interval) is better than pink (10y).
Yes.
The only difference is fin pitch and possibly manufacturing regulations.
Dunno where this “Mexico Spec” originated from. All the 98-05 trucks roll up into that 50360 p/n.
hoser
SILVER Star
The original "Mexican Spec" radiators are NLA. They were called Mexican Spec in the North American catalog but they were also available in other parts of the world. IMO, nothing real special but they may have been cheaper at one time than the 98-02 radiators.
Took a week and a half to get a radiator from RI to MD, and while it was well packed there was still a little fin bending in transit. Would you install or send back? Leaning the former due to wanting to get back on the road asap and not having a backup vehicle.
Install
/\ /\
isagard
SILVER Star
Seems like common wisdom is that both 16400-50360 and 16400-50290 are interchangeable, but has anyone actually installed the more expensive 16400-50290 radiator in an earlier model year truck? I run a '98 100 series and have the fairly common issue of boiling fuel at higher temperatures / elevations. While I haven't gone through all the suggestions in some of the other mud threads yet, if 16400-50290 has a chance of making that problem less consistent, then it's money well spent in my book.
However, I also noticed that the fan clutch changed around '06 to a slightly taller version. Is it possible that change of fin pitch ended up necessitating getting the fan closer to the radiator to maintain airflow, and actually installing the more expensive rad on an earlier truck could lead to worse cooling performance?
However, I also noticed that the fan clutch changed around '06 to a slightly taller version. Is it possible that change of fin pitch ended up necessitating getting the fan closer to the radiator to maintain airflow, and actually installing the more expensive rad on an earlier truck could lead to worse cooling performance?
hoser
SILVER Star
isagard
SILVER Star
Ah that's true, but don't they all use the 3.5mm pitch rather than 3.0? In that case, running with a fan closer/farther would probably still work OK, vs the 3.0mm pitch that might be more restrictive?
I could also just be massively overthinking this whole thing, won't be the first time lol
hoser
SILVER Star
Maybe just slightly.
I measured the Denso earlier in this thread. I think it was 3mm for all years... difficult to read accurately.
Last edited:
isagard
SILVER Star
Maybe just slightly.
I measured the Denso earlier in this thread. I think it was 3mm for all years... difficult to read accurately.
Interesting! Well, someone's gotta be the first sucker to try the over-priced one thinking it might help, might as well be me
Original OE rad in my 01 Cruiser failed in 2017, it lasted 16 years and 200k miles.
I put a Koyorad off RockAuto in it back then, and it appears to be on its way out now, it lasted 8 years and 40K.
I'm going back to OE, can get it shipped for $283 today with the 25% off toyota sale.
Happy to be able to buy an OE rad after a quarter century - the FJ80 radiator long since NLA.
I put a Koyorad off RockAuto in it back then, and it appears to be on its way out now, it lasted 8 years and 40K.
I'm going back to OE, can get it shipped for $283 today with the 25% off toyota sale.
Happy to be able to buy an OE rad after a quarter century - the FJ80 radiator long since NLA.
I wonder if this WiFi dongle will work- the one in the link is unavailable?https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQ...d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams
