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Ok here are my impressions after 150 miles of driving the LX around town after the oem radiator swap; Coolant temps definitely lower peak-wise. Weather here in the valley hasn’t changed, here are my basic data:

On a stand waiting at the stoplight @100°F, 12% humidity, 50/50 pink coolant, good fan clutch;
Peak coolant temp pre-swap: 205°F
Peak coolant temp post-swap: 199°F

Freeway mostly flat grade with mild uphills at 70MPH, 100°F oat, 12% humidity, 50/50 pink coolant, good fan clutch:
Peak coolant temp pre-swap: 198°F
Peak coolant temp post-swap: 194°F

I have also noticed when it hits the peak temp, the temperature goes does down a lot quicker than how it was with the old radiator based on just observing how the temp changes once I accelerate from a stop.
Nice data points.
 
Another update thought I’d share, first time for the new radiator to do a 500+ mile round trip. This is how it performed in the freeway with driving conditions seen in the photo.
IMG_9831.jpeg

Highest temp I got was in uphill areas of i15 South at 192°F within the same OAT range and speed of 76-80MPH. After reaching the summit, it went back down to 187°F in less than 2 miles indicating full potential efficiency % rate of the new radiator. Couldn’t be more happier. I just need to put in my HighRange UD Tcase gears soon.
 
Another update thought I’d share, first time for the new radiator to do a 500+ mile round trip. This is how it performed in the freeway with driving conditions seen in the photo.
View attachment 3757871
Highest temp I got was in uphill areas of i15 South at 192°F within the same OAT range and speed of 76-80MPH. After reaching the summit, it went back down to 187°F in less than 2 miles indicating full potential efficiency % rate of the new radiator. Couldn’t be more happier. I just need to put in my HighRange UD Tcase gears soon.
Temps look about like mine. It seems like they settled in during the CO trip. Your transmission temps are like mine with the 4-speed. My trans temps have always been cool like this. I like how these 100s trans temps run cool.
 
Another update thought I’d share, first time for the new radiator to do a 500+ mile round trip. This is how it performed in the freeway with driving conditions seen in the photo.
View attachment 3757871
Highest temp I got was in uphill areas of i15 South at 192°F within the same OAT range and speed of 76-80MPH. After reaching the summit, it went back down to 187°F in less than 2 miles indicating full potential efficiency % rate of the new radiator. Couldn’t be more happier. I just need to put in my HighRange UD Tcase gears soon.
What app is that - what else needed to run it?
 
About to pull the trigger on this after I realized OEM radiator is binned @ 259k on my 2000LC.

Is there any consensus on the OEM TRad vs all aluminum CSF? I tow a small fishing boat on 315s here in Colorado, aiming to keep things as cool as possible.
IMG_7017.webp
 
About to pull the trigger on this after I realized OEM radiator is binned @ 259k on my 2000LC.

Is there any consensus on the OEM TRad vs all aluminum CSF? I tow a small fishing boat on 315s here in Colorado, aiming to keep things as cool as possible.
View attachment 3819370
24 years the real deal worked, I think I’d get another t rad.
 
My CSF has been going strong for 2 years now. Higher capacity and efficiency, supplied with 20 PSI cap if you choose to run it.
 
Just another data point: The 16400-50360, less expensive T-rad weighs 27 pounds, while the 16400-50290 more expensive T-rad weights 32.4 pounds. No wonder it's more expensive as the finer pitch of the fins adds up. This according to LPN.
What's LPN?
 
I have looked at both. They look identical.

It's my understanding we've 3 T-rads in North America: Canada spec (can't get in lower 48), USA spec (Manufacture process, is to higher environmental (EPA 2005 mandates) standard, At least before "Trump" rolls back standards) and Mexican Spec ( No EPA cost in manufacturing).
 
Small update:

After asking around in some of the Facebook groups (UZJ100 and a few others), there have been reports of the CSF-7207 failing due to cracking within a few thousand miles. Photos were provided of said radiator. It is currently impossible to buy that particular radiator anywhere in the country right now, which I am taking as the universe telling me to go OEM. It's a bit disappointing, with how popular our rigs are, I am surprised there is not more aftermarket support on this part. I realize the OEM radiators do well, but for those who do a lot of low range at high elevation/heat in the summer and or tow, it would be nice to improve upon something that is already great. The Australians use PWR, but that's $1,000+ before shipping to the states. I can't justify that on my crusty old rig. Part of the joy of modifying a purpose built vehicle is to improve upon what is is inherently capable of, and part of me is disappointed I have not been able to do that here.

Oh well, I will be purchasing OEM Trad 16400-50360 tomorrow from a Toyota Dealership in Denver, current price is $416 picked up. I can deal with Denver traffic for that.

Through my post on Facebook, someone mentioned a website that compares current prices across all Toyota parts stores (Olathe, Decatur, etc) that funnels all of them into one centralized hub. Something useful for other people looking at radiators, axles, fan clutch, etc)


To those looking to have an OEM radiator shipped to you, that link will take you to the search for the 16400-50360 "Mexico Spec" radiators through dealerships across the internet
 
Small update:

After asking around in some of the Facebook groups (UZJ100 and a few others), there have been reports of the CSF-7207 failing due to cracking within a few thousand miles. Photos were provided of said radiator. It is currently impossible to buy that particular radiator anywhere in the country right now, which I am taking as the universe telling me to go OEM. It's a bit disappointing, with how popular our rigs are, I am surprised there is not more aftermarket support on this part. I realize the OEM radiators do well, but for those who do a lot of low range at high elevation/heat in the summer and or tow, it would be nice to improve upon something that is already great. The Australians use PWR, but that's $1,000+ before shipping to the states. I can't justify that on my crusty old rig. Part of the joy of modifying a purpose built vehicle is to improve upon what is is inherently capable of, and part of me is disappointed I have not been able to do that here.

Oh well, I will be purchasing OEM Trad 16400-50360 tomorrow from a Toyota Dealership in Denver, current price is $416 picked up. I can deal with Denver traffic for that.

Through my post on Facebook, someone mentioned a website that compares current prices across all Toyota parts stores (Olathe, Decatur, etc) that funnels all of them into one centralized hub. Something useful for other people looking at radiators, axles, fan clutch, etc)


To those looking to have an OEM radiator shipped to you, that link will take you to the search for the 16400-50360 "Mexico Spec" radiators through dealerships across the internet
I get what you are saying here, but these aren't Audis. If you keep up on the cooling system PM of these trucks, the T.Rad radiator will work in 99% of operating conditions.

There is a big myth out there that if you put this gigantic big bad boy aluminum radiator in that it will magically make your truck run cooler in all conditions. The ECU monitors ECT. Your thermostat is also regulating. And your fan clutch is set to work in a certain temp range along with that thermostat.

It's not the radiator that's the issue in these trucks. It's that people rarely follow the coolant change PM, let build up happen in the fins on the front of the radiator, let fan clutches get weak, add bumpers and armor that cut off airflow, and on and on.
 
I get what you are saying here, but these aren't Audis. If you keep up on the cooling system PM of these trucks, the T.Rad radiator will work in 99% of operating conditions.

There is a big myth out there that if you put this gigantic big bad boy aluminum radiator in that it will magically make your truck run cooler in all conditions. The ECU monitors ECT. Your thermostat is also regulating. And your fan clutch is set to work in a certain temp range along with that thermostat.

It's not the radiator that's the issue in these trucks. It's that people rarely follow the coolant change PM, let build up happen in the fins on the front of the radiator, let fan clutches get weak, add bumpers and armor that cut off airflow, and on and on.
+1

Unless the core is made of some kind of magical/expensive material like sterling silver, it's not going to transfer more heat than an OEM. It's just not.

Far more important is to keep the front face of the exterior fins clean; ideally, this means removing the shroud and backflushing with coil cleaner every 3 years or so.

I've yet to see a radiator replacement where the old (failed) rad wasn't super dirty (clogged) on the front face.
 
What's the deal with "Mexico Spec" it seems to be 100 dollars cheaper than the other OEM. Both radiators claim to be OEM Toyota but the cheaper is Mexico spec any insight?
 
What's the deal with "Mexico Spec" it seems to be 100 dollars cheaper than the other OEM. Both radiators claim to be OEM Toyota but the cheaper is Mexico spec any insight?
Wider fin pitch and potentially made to a “less restrictive” environmental standard.
 
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