Best Mods under $50...

[Spook50]

This type of decorative knot is used a lot in sailing. Do a search on "spiral hitching" or, if you want extra fancy, "coachwhipping." Neither of these techniques have the added benefit of easy removal if you need cord, but they might add a little bit that "yahcty" feeling to your 60 series land yacht.

The coach whipping wrap is cool as hell. I'd redo it using that if you could just grip it n' rip it when you need the cord.

 

[Sooke]

Get a spare key cut ($5.00) and wire it underneath your truck in an inconspicuous location.

 

[freepowder]

It's just the way we are in Aus about WTF you bought a Jeep

Actually I have 4. The TJ, plus projects: '47 CJ2a (may be a lost cause), '59 CJ5 f-head, '69 CJ5 odd-fire and I once owned a CJ3a.

I also bought an FJ55 new in '74 kept it for 15 years, nearly cried when I had to sell it.
My FJ60 will be my primary trail rig once it's worthy and it's close. The TJ gets down the road a fair sight better. I kinda like 190 hp and 235 ft/# torque and the 18-20 mpg too.

I had a Liberty that was my wife's. My daughter had the TJ and when she got preggers we traded as the Liberty (which by the way has been a good rig if not stellar off road) is a better family car. I like the TJ quite a lot.

All of 'em have their place and if you should make it over here and find a dearth of 25 year old LandCruisers to rent, I promise I won't give you and sh** about the Jeep in which you'll no doubt end up cruising the Colorado San Juans.

 

[Spudman]

Actually I have 4. The TJ, plus projects: '47 CJ2a (may be a lost cause), '59 CJ5 f-head, '69 CJ5 odd-fire and I once owned a CJ3a.

I also bought an FJ55 new in '74 kept it for 15 years, nearly cried when I had to sell it.
My FJ60 will be my primary trail rig once it's worthy and it's close. The TJ gets down the road a fair sight better. I kinda like 190 hp and 235 ft/# torque and the 18-20 mpg too.

I had a Liberty that was my wife's. My daughter had the TJ and when she got preggers we traded as the Liberty (which by the way has been a good rig if not stellar off road) is a better family car. I like the TJ quite a lot.

All of 'em have their place and if you should make it over here and find a dearth of 25 year old LandCruisers to rent, I promise I won't give you and sh** about the Jeep in which you'll no doubt end up cruising the Colorado San Juans.

Nice put mate, if I ever have the pleasure of being in the States, I'll certainly look you up and we'll travel the Highways and the Byways in your Jeep

Spudman

 

[freepowder]

Nice put mate, if I ever have the pleasure of being in the States, I'll certainly look you up and we'll travel the Highways and the Byways in your Jeep

Spudman

Probably in the '60, it's close, had it out a time or two already. Got the new shaved, rebuilt head; the MAF tri-y headers and exhaust system and the recurved dizzy in the garage. . . all so I can go here:

On the Kendall Mountain road near Silverton Colorado.

Silverton Colorado, 9000' el. from around 13,000' el. near the top of Kendall Mountain, looking north:

Let me know when you're coming, you can buy the beer. Cheers!

 

[Spudman]

Nice photos mate, keep that beer chilled

 

[SteveH]

Most FJ60/2 driver's side upper door hinges are worn, allowing the door to sag. On mine, the rubber door gasket was rubbing the paint off the B pillar and the door fell noticeably when opened.

I discovered that the passenger's side lower hinge (the least likely to be worn) can be flipped over and used as a replacement for the driver's side upper hinge. The hinge shape is slightly different, but the holes line up perfectly on the door and chassis.

With this swap, I now have a driver's door that springs open nicely, rather than having to be 'dragged open' as the rubber door seal drags on the B pillar. A very satisfying cheap mod, used passenger door hinges are cheap at most yards or from Mud sellers. I spray-bombed my hinge so that it is color matched, but you can barely see it tucked inside the front fender. Yes - access to the bolts is a royal pain in the neck. I loosened the lower hinge and let the door rest on a milk crate while I replaced the upper hinge.

I don't know of any other hinges (among the front or rear) that can be swapped like this, as I haven't studied them closely.

For all you Aussies, I'm speaking of US-spec trucks - you know, with the steering wheel on the correct side of the truck?

 

[MicahMan]

Good info!
But I'm a Right Sider and live in Utah!

 

[tanfj60]

Installed a wireless winch remote. About $15 from China.

 

[woytovich]

Installed a wireless winch remote. About $15 from China.

Be careful... There is a danger of unintentional running of the winch, yours or someone elses... These remotes operate on the same frequencies... There is a thead here on the topic as well as on the interweb. Google it.

 

[Mace]

Some winches have an on off switch. Easy to add and much safer if you do not have one on yours.

 

[Crick60]

Yep make sure you add an isolating switch for ANY winch

 

[woytovich]

Still a potential problem of course: when out wheeling with a group-especially in a place with lots of people-it would be pretty easy to see a situation where more than one person was winching at the same time in close proximity... Or where people have left their winch power switched on because they might need it in a hurry.

 

[ModisetteJ]

Freebie: re-aim the rear washer jet so it shoots straight back. Great for dealing with tailgaters, they get the message fast.

 

[Big Cruiser Guy]

Rear-facing "work lights" do this as well.............

 

[jherre1]

I got some of those retro cup holders from the 80's from Amazon. $5.85 for two.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IV81MO/?tag=ihco-20

I put one on the existing "cup holder" of the cubby. Now my travel mug sits secure and it doesn't fall.

I put it on the window, but I kept hitting it with my knee. This didn't use to happen when I was a teenager, I must've grown and inch or two since then.

 

[Biggunns]

My cargo dome light was missing and I didn't want to dump a bunch of money into a replacement. I picked up about 10 Harbor Freight 27 LED worklights for free so I had little to loose if this didn't work. I watched a YouTube video on how to drop the voltage and it suggested this voltage regulator +5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator 7805 and a few diodes so I picked up those at Radio Shack for about $4.

I took the back off the light and soldered the voltage regulator and diodes into the wiring where the 3 AAA batteries normally sit. I then found an extra access cover from an FJ60 tailgate that I had in my parts box, I drilled a few holes through the cover for the wires and to screw the light to the cover. Unfortunately my negative switch was not working so I choose to ground the negative side of the light straight to the cover, I plan on going back and fixing the switch so I can leave the light on and it will operate based on the tailgate being opened. I then used the holes already in the metal access cover to screw the whole assembly to cover the old dome light location.

The light is super bright and has two functions forward toward the interior and down toward the tailgate. My overhead dome is also cracked and missing the cover so I'm considering added another there and under the dash. The amount of power this uses in very minimal so I can leave it on for a few hours without concern for draining the battery.
Sorry for the crappy photos...

 

[Spook50]

My cargo dome light was missing and I didn't want to dump a bunch of money into a replacement. I picked up about 10 Harbor Freight 27 LED worklights for free so I had little to loose if this didn't work. I watched a YouTube video on how to drop the voltage and it suggested this voltage regulator +5V Fixed-Voltage Regulator 7805 and a few diodes so I picked up those at Radio Shack for about $4.

Great idea, but make sure that light isn't on for extended amounts of time. That 7805 is a linear regulator, meaning whatever load (current) is put on it, any excess will be dissipated as heat. So figure you're pulling 500mA (half an amp, just to use as an example), that's 6W that the regulator itself will be pulling from the 12V circuit, but only 2.5W of that (500mA x 5V) will be used by the load (the actual LED assembly), so the remaining 3.5W will be dissipated by the 7805. It won't take long for it to get HOT HOT HOT. Hopefully you have effective cooling for it, or at least have it mounted somewhere where it won't leave burn marks anywhere before it reaches its thermal shutdown point.

 

[Biggunns]

Good to know, it is mounted in the space where the batteries normally reside with the back cove off, the closest material to it is the metal cover panel.
I'll run a test by letting it run for 20-30 minutes and see how hot it gets.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Well I don't know if this has been done!
I just bought an intake hose from a MUD member for my 85 fj60 cruiser. Without knowing exactly how the original looked, because I don't have one on my cruiser. i just have the end that attaches to the support. I went ahead and purchased it. After getting it I noticed the end that attaches to radiator support is cut off. Its a good thing that mine is still there. So, Rather then scrapping it I improvised and bought a 2 inch ABS coupler from Home Depot. The tube end fits good but at the radiator support side it needs to be ground down with a grinder. after clamping down the hoses its finished. it took only .79 cents for the purchase of the coupler.

i hope this can be of help to anyone! For the mean time it works for me till i find a complete intake hose!