hahahaha you're my new best friend. I know it's a year later but this is rad. I donno how I didn't see it through almost 1000 posts on the 4runner forum. This is happening to the gx REAL soon. Thanks for sharing.
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hahahaha you're my new best friend. I know it's a year later but this is rad. I donno how I didn't see it through almost 1000 posts on the 4runner forum. This is happening to the gx REAL soon. Thanks for sharing.
So I'm not sure why I didn't think of this sooner. Maybe it was the sale on Amazon Prime day that prompted me to think about where I could use another Amazon Dot. For $25 I had to buy another one, and decided to put it in the GX. Works great, tethered to my iPhone. I already had the Grom aux adaptor, so install was nothing. Voice control, blu-tooth integration, wifi and other Echo app functions. Mostly use for music, creating lists, Audible books. Love it. Only complaint is the boot time, trying a battery adaptor if that doesn't work out I may wire it always on, power draw is only 3W.
Select Toyota Scion Lexus 02-12 Auxiliary Input Adapter Kit
Amazon Echo Dot - Add Alexa to any room
Select Toyota Scion Lexus 02-12 Auxiliary Input Adapter Kit
Amazon Echo Dot - Add Alexa to any room
So how is this powered/plugged in your GX????
Powered by USB adaptor in lighter socket.
I went to start ordering all this stuff today and Amazon is OOS of the 6x9 speakers - found one set on eBay for $50....and more at $300. Oof.
Tow strap with loops. Longer the better.
I second on the Baofeng UV5R unlocked 2M 440. Also does unlicensed FRS MURS bands (though not legally)
I second on the Baofeng UV5R unlocked 2M 440. Also does unlicensed FRS MURS bands (though not legally)
Looks like they're (Amazon) bringing them back at ~$40 for set of two.
Refinished my headlights and fogs using spar eurathane ($16) mixed with mineral spirits and the mothers kit ($17).
spar eurethane headlight restore method
Mothers® Nulens(TM) Headlight Renewal Kit
spar eurethane headlight restore method
Mothers® Nulens(TM) Headlight Renewal Kit
I ordered the subwoofer and box linked in your post and the sub is wayy too big for the box. Did you just cut a bigger hole?
Yes, jig saw. Just cut more toward the top than the bottom so the speaker frame doesnt hit the bottom of the box. I also stuffed mine with cotton battening. Really deep bass from such a small box.
I did not stuff it, but I did end up cutting the hole larger with a jigsaw. Hopefully it works out well - I am working on the front door speakers now (6x9's are already done -- doing the mids/tweeters at the moment!).
Do you have a pic of how the tweeter is supposed to snap in? I'm not seeing it - my OEM ML tweeter looks like it's integrated into the bracket.
Edit: Ahh, it's glued in. N/m.
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I have not messed with any aftermarket audio in quite a while, so my memory may be incorrect. I was thinking I could wire two 4 ohm speakers in series and that would make it an 8 ohm load on the amp, meaning I could still use the factory amp. Is there a place where I can find out the specs on the factory sub enclosure and amplifier? I wondered what the enclosure's volume was and the wattage on the subwoofer channel of the amplifier. There are plenty of 8" subwoofers, but the number of 6" subwoofers is very small, and 8 ohm makes that number even smaller! If the volume of the stock enclosure is a bit small some poly-batting would help make up for a minor deficit.
Is there only the sub in the cargo area? Sometimes it sounds like one in the dash, but could be my messed up hearing as well!
I built myself an attic for some extra storage space, but am not entirely happy with the result. I want to make some different brackets and maybe even a new shelf. That’s probably going to be a springtime project.
I built myself an attic for some extra storage space, but am not entirely happy with the result. I want to make some different brackets and maybe even a new shelf. That’s probably going to be a springtime project.
[QUOTE="I built myself an attic for some extra storage space, but am not entirely happy with the result. I want to make some different brackets and maybe even a new shelf. That’s probably going to be a springtime project.[/QUOTE]
Very interested. Have ideas for the same... I was linked by a friend to these fairly rigid 2x2 square mesh 48" wire shelves (1/4" wire)...what the cruiser guys use. Haven't seen them in-hand though. Went to a scrap yard to browse expanded steel, perforated, grates, shelving, etc. but was with kid and colder weather so no real 'browsing' time.
I'd like to see what you've got and read your thoughts.
My mind's eye pictured a shelf of counduit, of wire rack, of expanded steel and 1/2" angle... I'm thinking of ways to fab brackets that would fit where the handles screw in rather than tying to the handles. . . .
Very interested. Have ideas for the same... I was linked by a friend to these fairly rigid 2x2 square mesh 48" wire shelves (1/4" wire)...what the cruiser guys use. Haven't seen them in-hand though. Went to a scrap yard to browse expanded steel, perforated, grates, shelving, etc. but was with kid and colder weather so no real 'browsing' time.
I'd like to see what you've got and read your thoughts.
My mind's eye pictured a shelf of counduit, of wire rack, of expanded steel and 1/2" angle... I'm thinking of ways to fab brackets that would fit where the handles screw in rather than tying to the handles. . . .
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The front door speakers put out a fair amount of bass. That may be what you're hearing.
Very interested. Have ideas for the same... I was linked by a friend to these fairly rigid 2x2 square mesh 48" wire shelves (1/4" wire)...what the cruiser guys use. Haven't seen them in-hand though. Went to a scrap yard to browse expanded steel, perforated, grates, shelving, etc. but was with kid and colder weather so no real 'browsing' time.
I'd like to see what you've got and read your thoughts.
My mind's eye pictured a shelf of counduit, of wire rack, of expanded steel and 1/2" angle... I'm thinking of ways to fab brackets that would fit where the handles screw in rather than tying to the handles. . . .
I used some of the slotted steel angle I found at Home Depot, and after bending/cutting painted it to match my headliner. The angle needs to be adjusted for sure, along with the holes, because it is not where I want it to be.
What I did was use the handle to mark my mounting holes on the bracket I created. I used closet shelving, but it is very under-strength even for the few things I have strapped on it at the moment. I used cable clamps to secure the shelving to the brackets. I thought about getting some more angle stock or bar stock to reinforce the shelf, but it will be a spring or summer project at this point.
The mounting depth of the handles is greater than I expected. The way the headliner is sculpted makes me want to get some bar stock and create a spacer for the brackets to make it stand off about an in or so. This would bring the bracket out flush to the headliner and might make it look cleaner than what I have created. Maybe adjusting the angle further and adjusting the cuts is a better solution.
Years ago I had an Xterra and I made something similar. Thinking back about that, and the one I have created now, I plan to make another change as well. I will be trying to figure out how to extend the lip up front to meet the headliner. Even with the bungee cords and making sure to not put anything heavy up there I still had some things bounce loose when coming down a steep hill on a trail. A taller lip will make this nearly impossible, and would make me more comfortable storing things up there in case of an accident. Loose items can become projectiles!
All of this rambling would probably make more sense if I had some photos! I will try to go grab some later this weekend, that's if my little monsters will give me enough free time to make it happen!
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ExAAAACTLY!!!
The precise reason mine hasn't even made it onto paper, let alone prototyping into the rig.
But, yeah I think I follow ... especially the ceiling contour to match a taller front lip for containment and yes, pix are king
