Best Mod for under $100 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Bluetribal
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #262
So what are the special U type fastener clips?
I have a handle sitting in my garage waiting for when I install my prep table and figured it could be attached with washers although I have NutCerts that will probably work too.
I have a handle sitting in my garage waiting for when I install my prep table and figured it could be attached with washers although I have NutCerts that will probably work too.
I think nutcerts will be a better solution than my u-type clips and you won’t even need to remove the rear door panel.
You cannot use washers by themselves because there is no threading/nut anywhere to screw in the new bolts.
The u-type fastener clips that I used are in the above photo in plastic bags labeled speed nuts. These speednuts or u-type fastener clips provide the threading/nut to screw in the bolt.
I couldn’t figure out how to hold in place the regular nuts while trying to put back the door panel, attach the new handle, and screw in the bolt. Moreover, I don’t have nutcerts and don’t know how to use them. So, I hung the u-type speed nuts in place, reattached the rear door panel, and installed the new handle with washers and matching bolt.
The metal that holds the handle seems thin, so make sure the nurcerts are a good fit for that type of sheet metal.
Here’s what the square holes look like without the handle. Door panel still in place. Notice hole is big, wide and square and nowhere to hold a bolt.
You cannot use washers by themselves because there is no threading/nut anywhere to screw in the new bolts.
The u-type fastener clips that I used are in the above photo in plastic bags labeled speed nuts. These speednuts or u-type fastener clips provide the threading/nut to screw in the bolt.
I couldn’t figure out how to hold in place the regular nuts while trying to put back the door panel, attach the new handle, and screw in the bolt. Moreover, I don’t have nutcerts and don’t know how to use them. So, I hung the u-type speed nuts in place, reattached the rear door panel, and installed the new handle with washers and matching bolt.
The metal that holds the handle seems thin, so make sure the nurcerts are a good fit for that type of sheet metal.
Here’s what the square holes look like without the handle. Door panel still in place. Notice hole is big, wide and square and nowhere to hold a bolt.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #264
Oh cool, now I get it seeing it much larger on my computer compared to my phone. It's the black metal clip in your second & third photos.
Looks like if you were willing to trim the plastic a little bit at the top then you could install them without removing the panel as well. Going to try to do the nut certs this week without removing the plastic panel.
Looks like if you were willing to trim the plastic a little bit at the top then you could install them without removing the panel as well. Going to try to do the nut certs this week without removing the plastic panel.
Hoping nut-certs work well, looking forward to the update. Good project!
- Thread starter
- #266
Tried the NutCerts yesterday and the hole is just too large and would use a 1/2” NutCerts like is used on the OPOR sliders. Far too big of a bolt for any pre-made handle. Plus with the hole being square it is not ideal for a NutCerts because in order for them not to spin once installed the whole needs to be tight around them and almost hammered into the hole.
Last edited:
Check my post on page 9. I used a metal backing plate behind the door along with washers/nuts/bolts of your choice.
- Thread starter
- #268
Yeah that was my plan all along to do a backing plate like you did but thought the NutCerts would get this grab handle off of my shelf quicker.
- Thread starter
- #269
So for yours the metal plate is just behind the plastic panel it’s not actually attached to the two metal tabs of the door.
Right. It’s pretty sturdy though, no complaints.
95+% of my music is via Pandora (iPhone)....as such, I picked up my second AudioQuest Dragon Fly DAC for the GX. This model (Dragon Fly Black) doesn't need an external power source like the original one did so it's plug-n-play in the car (minus a digital out from your phone to get your USB output) and comes in just under $100. The Red version (~$200) is overkill for this application, definitely more tailored for headphone listening.
Digital sourced music is simply clearer and more crisp with an external DAC. Driving with your windows down won't reveal any differences but if you spend some time really listening to music, this little unit will really help bring a lot more clarity and detail to your ears. I'm really happy with this, been using it now for a little over a week.
Digital sourced music is simply clearer and more crisp with an external DAC. Driving with your windows down won't reveal any differences but if you spend some time really listening to music, this little unit will really help bring a lot more clarity and detail to your ears. I'm really happy with this, been using it now for a little over a week.
NMBruce
SILVER Star
So I am guessing this doesn’t work if you don’t have cellphone service?
I got the USA Spec BT45-TOY adapter for $144 on Amazon and paid $75 to install it. It works great when it connects via Bluetooth. I play my free amazon music via prime. I download music to iPhone, so I can play when there’s no cell data nor WiFi connection. I have over 500 songs on my phone and it’s gray when off-roading off the grid.
I just have to start amazon music prior to starting gx470 and then it connects automatically. It’s tricky getting consistent Bluetooth connection, but my success rate is getting better and better. Not the best, but clearly not a mod under $100!
I can use handsfree Bluetooth phone calls, so that’s great for a navigation head unit on a older 2003 gx470.
I just have to start amazon music prior to starting gx470 and then it connects automatically. It’s tricky getting consistent Bluetooth connection, but my success rate is getting better and better. Not the best, but clearly not a mod under $100!
I can use handsfree Bluetooth phone calls, so that’s great for a navigation head unit on a older 2003 gx470.
Pandora has two different subscription levels (similar to Spotify) which downloads music to your phone (aka "Offline mode") which I use often.
You can also just roll old-school and use an iPod. In short, any digital music stream fed to the Dragonfly via its USB input will get the improved analog conversion better preserving and highlighting all that extra music and sound. In a car, it's not always going to be obvious but if you use headphones or have a nice home system, the improvement is well worth the investment. I've been really happy with it in the GX - both electric and acoustic guitar are so much more alive......discerning ears should notice the difference - cheers
.
I should add, this is a direct analog feed to your HU via a stereo cable. Bluetooth is compression and therefore a loss of some audio fidelity whereas the direct digital feed here takes all that's there and tries to ensure it all makes its way to your speakers.
Phones or iPods or iPads, etc. all themselves have DAC chips embedded (you wouldn't otherwise have headphone-out 3.5mm jacks). Those chips are usually in the order of $0.50 each whereas a dedicated external DAC of this sort does one thing and one thing only and that's help bring every ounce of the music its fed to its fullest. My $.02 for the thread -
.
Phones or iPods or iPads, etc. all themselves have DAC chips embedded (you wouldn't otherwise have headphone-out 3.5mm jacks). Those chips are usually in the order of $0.50 each whereas a dedicated external DAC of this sort does one thing and one thing only and that's help bring every ounce of the music its fed to its fullest. My $.02 for the thread -
.
I run my ipad and spotify with offline mode with all my songs local (256GB ipad mini with cellular and GPS). Works like a charm!
I replaced the front 6x9s as well as the rear 6.5s today. Since I could never find the 8ohm, and I’m cheap, I just ordered the necessary adaptors and wired up some 4ohm’s I had wasting away. I bought a headunit with 2-6x9s and 2-6.5s at Walmart maybe 3 Christmas’s ago. I got it all for about $100 actually and just for the headunit. I was going to put it in my 1st gen Taco for the iPod ability.
Long story short: I installed 4ohm speakers front and back since the factory gx470 ML speakers were shot. I got the adaptors cheaper than repair kits so that’s the route I went. I ran a bead of silicone on everything and let it get slightly not tacky before installing. So far so good. If and when the factory head unit or amp fail I’ll just replace them.
6x9 and 6.5 adaptors 2 day Amazon Prime for $21. Sound quality-$100. Lol.
$100 Walmart headunit/speaker Christmas package.
Long story short: I installed 4ohm speakers front and back since the factory gx470 ML speakers were shot. I got the adaptors cheaper than repair kits so that’s the route I went. I ran a bead of silicone on everything and let it get slightly not tacky before installing. So far so good. If and when the factory head unit or amp fail I’ll just replace them.
6x9 and 6.5 adaptors 2 day Amazon Prime for $21. Sound quality-$100. Lol.
$100 Walmart headunit/speaker Christmas package.
- Thread starter
- #278
I wanted to share this last minute purchase before my Moab trip that really helped me out until I had to drop off of a bolder on one corner and completely removed the corner of my bumper. 
CURT 31007 Hitch-Mounted Skid Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YFNXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_IJiEq8Nww92C4
There is a company that offers a larger one that actually protects under the hitch too but it was too expensive for my cheap A$$. But for you Ballers looking to blow the $100 budget or make your own here are the other models.
Hitch Skid Plate: Receiver Hitch Skid Plate
Order Now - Jeep Skid Plates
CURT 31007 Hitch-Mounted Skid Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YFNXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_IJiEq8Nww92C4
There is a company that offers a larger one that actually protects under the hitch too but it was too expensive for my cheap A$$. But for you Ballers looking to blow the $100 budget or make your own here are the other models.
Hitch Skid Plate: Receiver Hitch Skid Plate
Order Now - Jeep Skid Plates
Last edited:
I found out after removing the running board that the snow accumulate really bad under the door. So I got a 30X24 truck mud flap from Pilot truck stop for $20. Buy some angle bracket, a piece of 1.25X30X0.062 aluminum strip and some 1/4" screws. Total cost about $40.
I wanted to share this last minute purchase before my Moab trip that really helped me out until I had to drop off of a bolder on one corner and completely removed the corner of my bumper.
CURT 31007 Hitch-Mounted Skid Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YFNXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_IJiEq8Nww92C4
There is a company that offers a larger one that actually protects under the hitch too but it was too expensive for my cheap A$$. But for you Ballers looking to blow the $100 budget or make your own here are the other models.
Hitch Skid Plate: Receiver Hitch Skid Plate
Order Now - Jeep Skid Plates
View attachment 1667539
That's awesome! I've been curious about those, compared tot he big one for a bit.
My buddy who just got an '18 TRD off-road runner was showing me that but moreso the $164 skidmark one (which you linked to)... I may fab him one, but i'm psyched to see the curt one in action. So, for the way le$$ than $164 I've been wondering about it
did you redrill the pin hole for a more snug fit? looks good.
I've been kind of wondering about these rollers, but in an unlifted rig, you'd lose real DA...
Roadmaster Rollaway Trailer Hitch Protector Roadmaster Skid Wheels RM-050
or smaller roller to weld on a hitch insert..? Ultra-Fab Steel Micro-Roller for Trailers and RVs - Weld On - 2" Wide x 2-1/4" Tall Ultra-
Thanks for sharing.
Last edited:
