CharlieS
GOLD Star
True, but the original question was "the best", not the most cost effective. Sometimes you do get what you pay for.
Best 80 series rear drawer camping setup (2 Viewers)
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Hornd
SILVER Star
You can get a Feel for a Drawer Setup by putting Milk Crates down and Topping with a Piece of 1/2" Plywood or OSB.
I built mine and my Only Regret (and I still may fix) is not Putting Hatches on the top to Open instead of Pulling Drawers all the way out.
It really Helps with Keeping Clutter Minimized since everything is in Drawer. May Build a Simplified set for Our GX that can Double as a SLeeping Platform.
I built mine and my Only Regret (and I still may fix) is not Putting Hatches on the top to Open instead of Pulling Drawers all the way out.
It really Helps with Keeping Clutter Minimized since everything is in Drawer. May Build a Simplified set for Our GX that can Double as a SLeeping Platform.
“Best” for me includes value, so most expensive doesn’t always mean best. To your own point only “sometimes” you get what you pay for.
this been working for me over the years.
I've made two of this style drawer system for my 80's and 100's. Picked up another 80 and will be building another one. Very simple and cheap. Maybe $150. My handles are threaded rod welded together. I had it lying around but I also like the rugged look. Also, no drawers slides, just "slide tape" you can buy on Amazon. I have at least 100 lbs in each drawer on my 100-Series and they slide just fine with some muscle. Just another idea to add to this thread.
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A couple of comments to followup on contributions from others since I first posted.
Hornd mentions checking things with milk crates. More specifically, this brings uo a crucial point whether you are buying or DIYing. Deck height is something you need to give some specific thought to as it is the most crucial measurement if you plan on spending any time back there. Depending on your height, and doing anything other than sleeping in the rear with a drawer system, like even changing clothes, you need a certain amount of clearance to be comfortable. Other factors are the need to access the left side cubby hole for the jack and tool bundle and to get into the cubbyhole there or to clear speakers. On my system in the first post of mine here, it was about 9" for deck height. From the systems I've seen, that's a pretty in between number. Others are lower, some a little higher. My current system is about an inch taller, mostly to accomodate the water tank I built in this time (see pics below.)
harrydunn mentioned using slide tape. Mostly this will end up requiring somewhat more effort to get the drawer pulled out. However, be aware that in certain situations, say the truck was pointed uphill enough, your drawers might slide right out in some situations once you drop the tailgate. This is where drawer slides might have an advanatge if you ordered them with drawer locks. IMO if you order slides, you should always get them with locks, as the slides extend far more easily than you'd like if they aren't present. Onto my current build.
The first drawers were built in anticipation of always having the trailer along, which means the bulk of the water supply could ride in it. This time, I wanted the ability to leave the trailer behind by installing a water tank in the truck. I chose a ~18 gallon tank from Front Runner. This required raising the deck heilt about an inch to provide a continuous level top. Here I've roughed in the surrounding framing, with having already bult a floor that levels up the are formerly the 2nd row footwell.
A view from the rear also shows how I simplified the framing vs the first version. Note that I haven't actually cut the boards to their final height before assembling the framing.
Here the framing is cut to the required height and I've installed the holddowmn starps, attaching them to the 2nd row seats holddown points. There is also a steel strap that provides a holddown for the frame itself. which will duplicate
Here most of the top panels are in place. The pair of forward ones are center hinge lift-ups. The rear right-side one is fixed to cover the drawer. The right rear panel is fixed in place to cover the main drawer. The left side one covers the fridge slide and could be set in place to allow plenty of room to sleep back there. The framing on the sides supports two long cubby hole doors.
Next the carpet goes down...
I added a kitchen counter piggybacked below the drawer slide.
Hornd mentions checking things with milk crates. More specifically, this brings uo a crucial point whether you are buying or DIYing. Deck height is something you need to give some specific thought to as it is the most crucial measurement if you plan on spending any time back there. Depending on your height, and doing anything other than sleeping in the rear with a drawer system, like even changing clothes, you need a certain amount of clearance to be comfortable. Other factors are the need to access the left side cubby hole for the jack and tool bundle and to get into the cubbyhole there or to clear speakers. On my system in the first post of mine here, it was about 9" for deck height. From the systems I've seen, that's a pretty in between number. Others are lower, some a little higher. My current system is about an inch taller, mostly to accomodate the water tank I built in this time (see pics below.)
harrydunn mentioned using slide tape. Mostly this will end up requiring somewhat more effort to get the drawer pulled out. However, be aware that in certain situations, say the truck was pointed uphill enough, your drawers might slide right out in some situations once you drop the tailgate. This is where drawer slides might have an advanatge if you ordered them with drawer locks. IMO if you order slides, you should always get them with locks, as the slides extend far more easily than you'd like if they aren't present. Onto my current build.
The first drawers were built in anticipation of always having the trailer along, which means the bulk of the water supply could ride in it. This time, I wanted the ability to leave the trailer behind by installing a water tank in the truck. I chose a ~18 gallon tank from Front Runner. This required raising the deck heilt about an inch to provide a continuous level top. Here I've roughed in the surrounding framing, with having already bult a floor that levels up the are formerly the 2nd row footwell.
A view from the rear also shows how I simplified the framing vs the first version. Note that I haven't actually cut the boards to their final height before assembling the framing.
Here the framing is cut to the required height and I've installed the holddowmn starps, attaching them to the 2nd row seats holddown points. There is also a steel strap that provides a holddown for the frame itself. which will duplicate
Here most of the top panels are in place. The pair of forward ones are center hinge lift-ups. The rear right-side one is fixed to cover the drawer. The right rear panel is fixed in place to cover the main drawer. The left side one covers the fridge slide and could be set in place to allow plenty of room to sleep back there. The framing on the sides supports two long cubby hole doors.
Next the carpet goes down...
I added a kitchen counter piggybacked below the drawer slide.
alia176
SILVER Star
The "best" cargo drawer system is the one that works for your needs - either buy it or DIY it. Mine was built 18yrs ago out of 1/8" alum and the ball bearings have $hit the bed a decade + ago.
So, here are some of my suggestions:
- think twice about using ball bearing slides because dirt WILL kill them if you wheel a lot. Use wood on wood, or wood on teflon, or wood on UHMW (aka cutting board) concept. Some use wood on wood using bees wax.
- by not using slides, you don't eat up precious side to side space. On my 4runner I built drawers out of 1/16" alum and they'll slide on teflon strips.
-my dog or GF's dog always travel/sleep/drink from the cargo space so their head space is crucial for any design. I have a Milford barrier in the 80 and a DIY barrier in the 4runner.
-it goes w/o saying, rollover protection and cargo securement is critical for everyone's safety, including your pooches.
-have the ability to stop the drawer from coming out all the way and crush your nuts when parked uphill
- Same goes for parking nose downhill!
So, here are some of my suggestions:
- think twice about using ball bearing slides because dirt WILL kill them if you wheel a lot. Use wood on wood, or wood on teflon, or wood on UHMW (aka cutting board) concept. Some use wood on wood using bees wax.
- by not using slides, you don't eat up precious side to side space. On my 4runner I built drawers out of 1/16" alum and they'll slide on teflon strips.
-my dog or GF's dog always travel/sleep/drink from the cargo space so their head space is crucial for any design. I have a Milford barrier in the 80 and a DIY barrier in the 4runner.
-it goes w/o saying, rollover protection and cargo securement is critical for everyone's safety, including your pooches.
-have the ability to stop the drawer from coming out all the way and crush your nuts when parked uphill
- Same goes for parking nose downhill!
Much respect for all the self-constructed set ups above.
If "best" just means highest quality, check us out. Lifetime warranty. Easy thing to offer when you build it like we do. Air Down Gear Up.
If budget is one of your primary concerns, you may want to DIY. We'll never win on low price. You want extreme durability and lightweight assemblies, we're your ticket.
airdowngearup.com
If budget is one of your primary concerns, you may want to DIY. We'll never win on low price. You want extreme durability and lightweight assemblies, we're your ticket.
SS1 System- 80 Series Land Cruiser & LX450
Outfit your 80 Series Toyota Land Cruiser or Lexus LX450 with the best drawer and sleeping platform system available. This premium product provides full and quick access to all your gear with full extension, lockable drawers and the only integrated, convertible sleeper on the market.
airdowngearup.com
alia176
SILVER Star
If "best" just means highest quality, check us out. Lifetime warranty. Easy thing to offer when you build it like we do. Air Down Gear Up.
If budget is one of your primary concerns, you may want to DIY. We'll never win on low price. You want extreme durability and lightweight assemblies, we're your ticket.
SS1 System- 80 Series Land Cruiser & LX450
Outfit your 80 Series Toyota Land Cruiser or Lexus LX450 with the best drawer and sleeping platform system available. This premium product provides full and quick access to all your gear with full extension, lockable drawers and the only integrated, convertible sleeper on the market.
y'all got serious drool worthy stuff right there.
I took a bit of a different path with my setup as I wanted something super robust that wouldn’t move around or rattle. I’m not saying the route I went is right for you but I wanted a half height drawer for a bigger fridge and I also wanted to clear my speakers in the back.
I went with ARB as they are proven over time with good rollers and fitment. The half drawer has a roller top for the fridge and the full side drawer doubles as my sleeping platform. The side wings are great for hiding tools and airlines and the fit is pretty darn nice and no need for drilling the body. I had my drill out for a hole in the right side wing for my air coupling. Not a single rattle through all of Moab.
I went with ARB as they are proven over time with good rollers and fitment. The half drawer has a roller top for the fridge and the full side drawer doubles as my sleeping platform. The side wings are great for hiding tools and airlines and the fit is pretty darn nice and no need for drilling the body. I had my drill out for a hole in the right side wing for my air coupling. Not a single rattle through all of Moab.
Air Down Gear Up
Supporting Vendor
Andy already chimed in for the Air Down Gear Up drawer systems, but figured I'd also give our 2-cents directly.
All aluminum frame, direct mount to the vehicle body, no floor plate, no wood screws: All adds up to a lifetime of performance! The aluminum frame keeps the weight low compared to full-wood panel concepts.
All aluminum frame, direct mount to the vehicle body, no floor plate, no wood screws: All adds up to a lifetime of performance! The aluminum frame keeps the weight low compared to full-wood panel concepts.
Really cool setup. I also have a Bellfab tire carrier and had given up on a drawer/platform system. I can follow instructions but I’m a horrible engineer. This gives me hope though that I may be able to do something similar.
Here's a super simple set I made that I thought I'd only use for a little bit but have been using for a couple years now with no issues. Just did 3/4" oak for the beefy frame (main platform and side wings, and the 3 legs down). 1/2" for the inside drawers and got some slides on amazon. Was probably $400ish with all hardware and wood and has been super sturdy! Still need to bolt it down tho, it likes to jump in the air on the trails lol. I made the height just over the wheel wells and it lines up perfect with the backseats folded down.
Cheers!
Cheers!
Did mine a couple years back. Wanted to do aluminum frame, but too expensive here in Hawaii. Went with mild steel and built everything off that. One of the first times I played with wood for a project. The aluminum anchor strip is tied I got the frame. The sides flip up and used uhmw or something like that for slides. I bought the kreig jig and screws for the drawers. Raptor lines when finished.
Eventually added a aluminum angle iron to protect the lip about drawers. I had a fridge slide for years in the back. Just became a hassle every time you wanted something. Had to open either the swing outs or the tailgate and hatch.
Eventually added a aluminum angle iron to protect the lip about drawers. I had a fridge slide for years in the back. Just became a hassle every time you wanted something. Had to open either the swing outs or the tailgate and hatch.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
I built this for my FJ55, when janky was cool. It fit perfectly into the 80. So it’s what I’m sticking with. 
A Thermarest basecamp mattress fits perfectly in here. I much prefer tent camping, but when necessary...
A Thermarest basecamp mattress fits perfectly in here. I much prefer tent camping, but when necessary...
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Hornd
SILVER Star
Very Similar to Mine
I used 1/2" UHMW (McMaster Carr) on Solid 1/2" Rods instead of Sliders.
If it works for what you need then it’s not janky. Didn’t think much about drawers, until spending 4-7 days camping remotely and having to dig for stuff in different totes. Now all the basic stuff is kept in there so when I go camping I just need to pack food and gear. Have all the cooking stuff, canned foods, forks, plates, ect in one drawer and tools, fluids, spare parts in the other. I tried to keep it as light as possible. Didn’t want to spend money on a manufactured one as I’m too cheap.I built this for my FJ55, when janky was cool. It fit perfectly into the 80. So it’s what I’m sticking with.
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A Thermarest basecamp mattress fits perfectly in here. I much prefer tent camping, but when necessary...
