SF is pretty good. I feel like I pay an arm and leg for it, but it pays off when you need to use it.
Bent the Frame (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter jonharis
- Start date
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SF is pretty good. I feel like I pay an arm and leg for it, but it pays off when you need to use it.
TrekboxX
Supporting Vendor
Good to hear. I have State Farm. And Geico. And Esurance. Oh, boy.
My 2 cents on frame is to go with a solid cage into cab triangulated which might help. The the trailer possible with a pintle hitch design to allow more flex.
Toyota has designed the frames to be mushy to enhance ride quality and safety crumple zones. Sliders stiffen the center section
Toyota has designed the frames to be mushy to enhance ride quality and safety crumple zones. Sliders stiffen the center section
How many times do I have to tell you to keep it out of pursuit mode when you're off road? When did you install the K.I.T.T turbo jump mod anyway? I didn't see that in your build thread.
Anyway, having lived in an area of the country where one never expects perfection, I have to suggest thinking about getting creative with this solution. Especially since it appears your truck's rear end is destined for destruction.
Couldn't one support the body with some kind of lift, cut out the damaged part of the frame, make the body panel adjustments, then weld in a used OEM cut off from a salvaged rig or even a stronger custom frame member? In your case, I would recommend using a re-purposed girder from the strongest bridge in your area.
You guys are having way too much fun out there. I'm jealous.
Anyway, having lived in an area of the country where one never expects perfection, I have to suggest thinking about getting creative with this solution. Especially since it appears your truck's rear end is destined for destruction.
Couldn't one support the body with some kind of lift, cut out the damaged part of the frame, make the body panel adjustments, then weld in a used OEM cut off from a salvaged rig or even a stronger custom frame member? In your case, I would recommend using a re-purposed girder from the strongest bridge in your area.
You guys are having way too much fun out there. I'm jealous.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Yeah. You're missing what I was saying about how the calculate totalling. It's not a $20,000 repair that totals the truck. It's when it's more profitable for them to pay you the pre crash value and sell it as salvage to a junk yard (salvage value), then it would be for them to pay to fix it. In that scenario, you have the option of taking the pre crash value of the truck and buying it back from the insurance company for the salvage value. So if your salvage value is $10,000-ish, they'll only pay for $10,000 repairs. After that point they're losing more money than if they total it.
The body is the part that concerns me. I guess I just don't understand well enough the capabilities of the body shop industry, but to see door gaps like that makes me think it would be nigh on impossible to get back to true.
Regarding the frame, replacing it would be the only mode a shop would consider, but if you were on your own with $10k of cash in hand after the buy back, wouldn't you be better off having the rear section fabricated out of box channel? I would think you could either move over the mounts or have new fabricated.
Looks like the frame is only $5300, if you can get one...
Sorry, that stinks. I had a similar incident last summer following a rig with low angle sun and dust. Launched over a drainage cut. No trailer though, just a hard hit.
Regarding the frame, replacing it would be the only mode a shop would consider, but if you were on your own with $10k of cash in hand after the buy back, wouldn't you be better off having the rear section fabricated out of box channel? I would think you could either move over the mounts or have new fabricated.
Looks like the frame is only $5300, if you can get one...
Sorry, that stinks. I had a similar incident last summer following a rig with low angle sun and dust. Launched over a drainage cut. No trailer though, just a hard hit.
Sorry to see that Jon.
^^What Klaus wrote above. I have a friend who did the same thing with a different (i.e. not a 100) vehicle. It simply made good financial sense to buy it back.
Keep us posted on what you decide to do. It will help the rest of us should we find ourselves in a similar situation. Although not a wheeler per se, I'm on constant watch for those crazy wash outs in these desert trails. Especially this year, given weather conditions.
Best of luck.
^^What Klaus wrote above. I have a friend who did the same thing with a different (i.e. not a 100) vehicle. It simply made good financial sense to buy it back.
Keep us posted on what you decide to do. It will help the rest of us should we find ourselves in a similar situation. Although not a wheeler per se, I'm on constant watch for those crazy wash outs in these desert trails. Especially this year, given weather conditions.
Best of luck.
Sorry to hear about this Jon.
In terms of the part ordering issue, generally speaking things like frames need to be "manually" ordered or off-line ordered which means that your part geek will need to speak directly with Toyota parts analysts.
More than likely the part order got cancelled by Toyota.
That said, your part geek might not have pulled up the correct number or the quantity available was not correct which means a 6-8 week order would correspond for it to come out of Japan from Toyota's supplier (more than likely with Gifu or from the Honsha frame assy line).
Good luck with this... Wish I could help but I am about 6000 miles away right now.
Best
Onur
In terms of the part ordering issue, generally speaking things like frames need to be "manually" ordered or off-line ordered which means that your part geek will need to speak directly with Toyota parts analysts.
More than likely the part order got cancelled by Toyota.
That said, your part geek might not have pulled up the correct number or the quantity available was not correct which means a 6-8 week order would correspond for it to come out of Japan from Toyota's supplier (more than likely with Gifu or from the Honsha frame assy line).
Good luck with this... Wish I could help but I am about 6000 miles away right now.
Best
Onur
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Um, no and no. If they wanted a "mushy" ride quality, they wouldn't use a body on frame design at all. Again, the boxed LC frame is very stout, there's nothing "mushy" about it. And maybe if you welded your slider rail right to the frame like a splint it would stiffen it, but sitting on 3 bolted out outriggers - not so much.
My thought and prayers to u man , get a 99 lol
Wow!
DO you have a picture of the washed out area this happened?
DO you have a picture of the washed out area this happened?
I think I'd vote for removing all your mods from the rig and try to total the truck. The frame damage along with the door repairs are going to be pricey. Even if it's repaired it won't be the same. It would be like marrying a pretty girl with a red headed stepchild, its damaged goods. You'd be better off to start fresh with a new rig.
hoser
SILVER Star
Is the door jamb creased anywhere? Is the body creased anywhere? There's a chance the door isn't damaged. The body might've just flexed and misaligned the door?
jonharis
Adventure Imports
- Thread starter
- #38
There is no visible creasing or rippling anywhere. We thoroughly checked the body, door jams and underside of the truck. I have not done any major surgery to look under the carpet or in the body mount locations yet. By the look of it the rear body mount locations got pulled down in the impact and the bend / flex is occurring just behind the "B" pillar. over a long distance. .5-1" of bend at the back would only translate to millimeters or less at the pivot point. I'm interested to see if the body mount holes have been deformed at all. The missaligmnet is visible at the rear doors, rear venting windows, tailgate and the sunroof has a minor vibration.
I'm glad you have a good insurance company! As far as I know, State Farm and Farmers are the only 2 companies that will cover off-road damage. (I'm a Farmers agent.)
In regards to your truck, why would you want it fixed?!? I would much rather have it totaled out and move all of the aftermarket stuff to a new 100. You will be chasing issues for a long time. Heck, those doors may never line up again. On the flip side, as soon as you remove the rear most body mounts, it may spring back. Personally, I wouldn't want to take the chance...
In regards to your truck, why would you want it fixed?!? I would much rather have it totaled out and move all of the aftermarket stuff to a new 100. You will be chasing issues for a long time. Heck, those doors may never line up again. On the flip side, as soon as you remove the rear most body mounts, it may spring back. Personally, I wouldn't want to take the chance...
