I was wondering the same. Have you undone the rear body mount or loosened them all just too see if its being torqued? Sorry to hear about this though. Must have been one heck of an impact.
Bent the Frame (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jonharis
- Start date
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Jon -
Truly sorry to read this. I was just showing my GF the pics of your San Rafael Swell trip last night ... will not be showing her this.
Good luck. I do hope this works out for you.
Truly sorry to read this. I was just showing my GF the pics of your San Rafael Swell trip last night ... will not be showing her this.
Good luck. I do hope this works out for you.
Tell them you don't want the truck! Be nice to the adjuster and explain your concerns about loading the car up with the boy scout troop to take them camping. If that doesn't work, start pushing the "diminished value" button. In reality, I have no clue if you have boy scouts in your 100 and we all know that "diminished value" is just as made up as "Assault Rifle" but it may sway them if the numbers are close. The biggest thing that will help you is being very, very nice to the adjuster.
Tell them you don't want the truck! Be nice to the adjuster and explain your concerns about loading the car up with the boy scout troop to take them camping. If that doesn't work, start pushing the "diminished value" button. In reality, I have no clue if you have boy scouts in your 100 and we all know that "diminished value" is just as made up as "Assault Rifle" but it may sway them if the numbers are close. The biggest thing that will help you is being very, very nice to the adjuster.
At $6500 just for one part, the numbers may not need too much swaying. Best of luck and god speed. It's definitely s***ty scenario.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
DId they even include all the small parts that they are going to break when swapping parts from fame to frame? Clip, plastic brackets etc etc. I cannot believe that they really want to do a frame swap and not expect to "own" all the problems in the future. It can be done, but I would like to have 100% faith in the shop/technician that is going to do it.
I would gently nudge them in the direction that "I might have to wait 12 months before I sign off that I am happy that nothing was swapped incorrectly" I would also really want a decent warranty on the work. Don't get roped into the initial estimate / change orders after the fact deal.
If they are halfway through the repair and then have to total it, they own it. It has nothing to do with you. They then have to total it and pay you, as well as pay the shop for the labor. & parts. This is a pretty big gamble for them with an open ended solution. I would not be surprised with some nudging and the right questions that they do not decide to walk away from it. Remember they want the least exposure. A frame swap holds all kinds of variables that they do not like. Cutting you a check and you get a new truck does not.
I would gently nudge them in the direction that "I might have to wait 12 months before I sign off that I am happy that nothing was swapped incorrectly" I would also really want a decent warranty on the work. Don't get roped into the initial estimate / change orders after the fact deal.
If they are halfway through the repair and then have to total it, they own it. It has nothing to do with you. They then have to total it and pay you, as well as pay the shop for the labor. & parts. This is a pretty big gamble for them with an open ended solution. I would not be surprised with some nudging and the right questions that they do not decide to walk away from it. Remember they want the least exposure. A frame swap holds all kinds of variables that they do not like. Cutting you a check and you get a new truck does not.
One nice thing is State Farm *should* be like Farmers: If you get it repaired at one of their preferred shops, the repair is warranted for as long as you own the car. If something isn't right, you take it back in and have them redo it. They get pissy about it but it's in their contract.
I figured that was the case. State Farm is a good company.
Sorry to hear about that Jon. I'm with everyone else on this one. I can't imagine how it would be more cost effective for anyone to swap everything onto a new frame, fix the body damage (which may be extensive), and miraculously have no further issues down the road. Take off all your mods that didn't replace factory equipment and get a 98/99 
FWIW USAA also covers off-road collisions.
FWIW USAA also covers off-road collisions.
Ah, that'w what I was trying to articulate.
While we're talking about insurances, brief hijack, State FArm sounds great. But has anyone looked at custom insurance? With mods, these trucks quickly become worth more than their NADA, KBB value. Has anyone used classic car type insurance where you set the value?
Jon,
My sincerest condolences as well on what is an absolutely sick 2005 LC. After checking out all that you have done to it, I completely understand why you would want to explore any possibilities to not have to start over again.
Best of luck on whatever path you go on with this. Truly is a good thing that you have a top tier insurance company.
Best,
Jack
My sincerest condolences as well on what is an absolutely sick 2005 LC. After checking out all that you have done to it, I completely understand why you would want to explore any possibilities to not have to start over again.
Best of luck on whatever path you go on with this. Truly is a good thing that you have a top tier insurance company.
Best,
Jack
Good to know!
It's available. I'm running that type of policy on my 40. The problem with most of those type of policies is they restrict how the vehicle is used. (i.e. You can't daily drive it.) If they don't, the policy is very expensive for what you get. Another option is to put a customized endorsement on the policy to cover your aftermarket parts. It won't be replacement cost but actual cash value. This is pretty cheap to add but you would want to have really good records of what you are covering.
SF covers all aftermarket parts with no max as long as you have receipts. At least according to my agent. YMMV.
SF will cover the aftermarket parts ONLY if they raise the value of the vehicle. And you will only get the amount that it raised the value of the vehicle. That is the best they can do via Oregon state law. It's usually better to swap your stock parts back on and sell the aftermarket parts separately. The endorsement or ACV policy would be for major modifications that can't be unbolted (i.e. SAS, forced induction, custom paint, etc) or rare vehicles. Sorry, I should have been more clear.
Not according to my SF agent. I specifically asked and was told that the only thing I needed was receipts. I get your point and I'll re-verify, agent is a chick after all.
. If it were a near total I'd have it towed to the house anyway to remove parts first.
I looked into it since I only use my 100 for commuting 2-3 days a week. But it's parked on the street (Garage door is too low). So most classic car insurances wouldn't cover it.
Hi-Jack Over.
jonharis
Adventure Imports
- Thread starter
- #57
Not according to my SF agent. I specifically asked and was told that the only thing I needed was receipts. I get your point and I'll re-verify, agent is a chick after all.
My experience has been consistent with this.
Great piece of advice. Thanks for chiming in.
I'm betting on the total like Slee. Great thread please keep us posted on the outcome. Sorry about your Rig
How long after the accident did you take the frame rail pics? It looks like they're rustier than I would expect if they were taken right after the accident. To me, it looks like they may be been bent by your first accident and maybe bent more by the second.
There appears to be some fresh chipping, but a lot of the chips have some rust on them.
There appears to be some fresh chipping, but a lot of the chips have some rust on them.
