Bent the Frame (1 Viewer)

[BamaHeel]

^ and replace starter contacts

 

[farinvail]

Jon, that looks awesome.

 

[VidereStudios]

I'm still amazed your insurance went this route.

I am as well. But oh so happy they did! I think these may be the freakin' coolest technical pics in the 100 series section! I bet we won't see pics like this for many more years...until people start restoring 100's or going really all out on the mods. I am giddy with the thoughts of all the mods and projects that could be done with the truck in this situation. Thanks for sharing Jon!

 

[re_guderian]

I'd be running around sqeezing a whole tube of anti-sieze into every captive nut that is welded on that sucker...

 

[jonharis]

NOW is the perfect time to install headers!!!

^ and replace starter contacts

Agree, In a perfect world, I would have a month or so to really work the truck over, there are dozens of little things I would have loved to address, but alas, the shop has finite patients and floor space and I'm grateful that they have aloud me to do as much as I have. I've replaces all of the heater hoses, the Ts, the leaking coolant valve, front sway bar bushings, rerouted diff breathers, drooped the radiator to match the body lift, installed captive nuts on the #6 body lift position for a much better and otherwise impossible puck installation, replaces several other bushings etc.

I would have loved to to headers, but being that the truck is a late model, I doubt I will experience the issues that others have for many years (crossed fingers).

The starter contact would have been smart, and I didn't even think about it till you mentioned it. If I can do it in the next two days it will be a good thing to finish. Might just toss a new starter in....

 

[SWUtah]

Stainless Steel. MMC sells them. You can just as easily and much more cheaply use brass or the OEM plastic but I figured this was a small price to pay for a solution that will outlast the truck.

Now that is a great upgrade!

 

[jonharis]

I'm in for a group buy if it happens this month. I'm about to go in and replace a bunch of stuff for preventative maintenance and the "T's" are on the list. I have to have it all back together by 8/8, so I'll order separately from the supplier if a group buy doesn't go fairly soon.

Now that is a great upgrade!

Reminds me, MMC does not do bulk discounted pricing so we are out of luck on that front.

 

[hoser]

Jon, to keep your thread on track, I'll throw this link about the stainless T's.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8655118&postcount=120

 

[jonharis]

Jon, to keep your thread on track, I'll throw this link about the stainless T's.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8655118&postcount=120

Good pricing there. Wish I would have seen that before ordering the MMC ones. Things are happening so rappidly on this that I have no time do do research so I'm making some decisions that are impulsive.

 

[hoser]

I ended up replacing my T's with the OE plastic ones. I only tracked down those SS T's after you mentioned no bulk discount from MMC.

 

[jonharis]

^ that was a great find. Thanks for posting for future use.

 

[patrickfinley]

Hey Jon, how's your truck doing all these many months later?

 

[jonharis]

Hey Jon, how's your truck doing all these many months later?

The truck is doing great. I think the fact that they replaced most of the body-frame bushings as well as all of the various plastic clips etc. has contributed to that success. I have not discovered any gremlins or other issues relating to the frame swap.

 

[lhommec13]

The truck is doing great. I think the fact that they replaced most of the body-frame bushings as well as all of the various plastic clips etc. has contributed to that success. I have not discovered any gremlins or other issues relating to the frame swap.

What was the final cost of doing all of that, including insurance and out of pocket? Glad to hear it's all working out well for you!

 

[jonharis]

What was the final cost of doing all of that, including insurance and out of pocket? Glad to hear it's all working out well for you!

I don't have the paperwork but here is the approximate breakdown.

$500: Insurance Deductible
$2000-$2250: Actual cost over 3 years (Insurance deductible + increased premiums for "at-fault" accident)
$6500 Cost of new OEM Toyota Frame
$14000-$16000 Total cost of Parts and Labor.

Looking at the above breakdown, most 100s (early years) would have been totaled. Mine was most likely right on the breakover.

 

[Junglejack]

In a sense, you have one of the freshest 100's out there. Especially as swapping out drivetrains is overwhelmingly more common and as you pointed out on a repair that most 100's would be totalled out for. When combined with year, modifications, et al, it could be said you have perhaps the nicest 100 out there.

 

[paflytyer]

In a sense, you have one of the freshest 100's out there. Especially as swapping out drivetrains is overwhelmingly more common and as you pointed out on a repair that most 100's would be totalled out for. When combined with year, modifications, et al, it could be said you have perhaps the nicest 100 out there.

That thing is a heap!

 

[lizardking100]

I would guess that the new frame will go a long way in bringing the body back into spec. Is it wrong that I would pay a $1 for the chance to sit inside the body and listen as it's lowered on the frame?

A long time ago a guy posted an article on the manufacturing process for the 100. IIRC, there was some commentary on the marvel of the 100's monolithic body structure and the precision with which it had to line up to the frame. At the time most BOF vehicles were welded together in components which resulted in a lot of slop and flexibility.