Bent the Frame (3 Viewers)

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Have you confirmed.yet that State Farm agrees to replace the frame? Sounds like a no brainier to most, but don't count your eggs before they hatch. The damage does not appear to be in a crush zone but in the bend in the rail...big difference. Any body shop can pull the frame back in specs without heat. How much other frame damage comes out with that pull is hard to say. The door gaps and some body was damaged by the frame bending. It will "unbend" (mostly) also with the frame pull. That specific process is how they do any repairs when there is frame or structural damage present.
Having said that, I hope they hand you the blank check and let you do as you like. As for diminished value, that is excluded from 90% of first party policies. Hope it all works out! Keep us posted.
 
How long after the accident did you take the frame rail pics? It looks like they're rustier than I would expect if they were taken right after the accident. To me, it looks like they may be been bent by your first accident and maybe bent more by the second.

There appears to be some fresh chipping, but a lot of the chips have some rust on them.

The frame was in spec after the first accident. The pics posted in the OP were taken 3-4 weeks after the incident, surface rust happens fast. While the frame may have been weekend, the current incident definitely did the damage that is visible.

@ 12Guns. The shop is direct repair for SF. They act as the claims adjuster and know what they can or can not do. If they say the frame can not be repaired, it can't.

At this point, I'm not going to speculate any more about what can / can not, should / shouldn't be done with the truck. I have a very good shop working on it that has an excellent track record for doing the right thing. I have 100% faith that things will end up well and that the shop will own any future issues. I am on a first name basis with the estimating guy as well as the guy who will perform 90% of the labor and trust them explicitly. I also have two independent adjusters that agree that the truck is repairable and should indeed be repaired.
 
At this point, I'm not going to speculate any more about what can / can not, should / shouldn't be done with the truck. I have a very good shop working on it that has an excellent track record for doing the right thing. I have 100% faith that things will end up well and that the shop will own any future issues. I am on a first name basis with the estimating guy as well as the guy who will perform 90% of the labor and trust them explicitly. I also have two independent adjusters that agree that the truck is repairable and should indeed be repaired.

As long as they will allow you to come and retrieve all of your mods before it goes to salvage if things go south during the repair. That would be my only concern. AFAIK, once it goes salvage you loose all access to the vehicle.
 
As long as they will allow you to come and retrieve all of your mods before it goes to salvage if things go south during the repair. That would be my only concern. AFAIK, once it goes salvage you loose all access to the vehicle.

Touché. I believe I will have a several hour window in which the body shop "can not find the keys". :grinpimp:
 
+1 for LC durability

side note: when i was young and dumb I "wheeled" a 96 tahoe. I drove it off a smaller lip than you hit, going less that 30 mph, with no trailer, and had a significantly worse result.
Two broken rear windows (ambulance style doors) and a broken tie rod immobilized the vehicle.
Even though I don't really off road test my LX, as it's my DD also, the durability never ceases to amaze me.
Small consolation I know, but still a good frame of reference.:hmm:
 
Time to sell the trailer?

LOL, a little forshadowing on your part. It is actually for sale, I just have not gotten around to posting it yet. FWIW the trailer is excellent, I am selling to upgrade, not because of this incident. The trailer came-out unscathed. I'm sure the lower weight and excellent suspension played a big role.

In this video the trailer was undamaged but the truck blew out three of his "fox" shox. The bouncing and crazyness in the video was much more severe than what I went through. However I have 500-600+ pounds more gear in mine at the time. The trailer in this video was empty.
 
If I was in the market, I'd love this trailer. I took about 1000 pictures of it as I followed behind. To say that I was impressed with what it went through and how well Jonathan drives with it, would be an understatement. It's a sweet setup.
 
Not according to my SF agent. I specifically asked and was told that the only thing I needed was receipts. I get your point and I'll re-verify, agent is a chick after all. :). If it were a near total I'd have it towed to the house anyway to remove parts first.

She's right, you do just need the receipt. However, they aren't going to give you any more money for them than what you could have got selling the vehicle. If you 100 bone stock is worth $15,000 and after you put $5,000 into it you can sell it for $15,500, they are going to give you $15,500 minus your deductible... That's what I was trying to say. I understand what your agent said and she is correct but she is an agent, not an adjuster. She doesn't write the check, just reads the policy. ;)

I looked into it since I only use my 100 for commuting 2-3 days a week. But it's parked on the street (Garage door is too low). So most classic car insurances wouldn't cover it.

Hi-Jack Over.

Interesting about the parking on the street thing. It's not something we use in underwriting so I wouldn't have guessed that but it makes sense.


Okay, sorry for the hi-jack. I just felt like those needed clarification. If anybody has more questions, feel free to PM me. :cheers:
 
It's going in on Thursday!!!

Major Snafus between local dealer and Toyota making a 10 day delivery take almost two months. The guys at the shop are going to come in over the weekend and do most of the R&R and then do the body/paint work early next week. Should be at 100% in time for the FJ Summit!
 
Hey Jon--are they doing things like replacing rubber body mounts and hardware or anything of that nature or literally just the frame?

Excited to see the work.

:cheers:
 
Hey Jon--are they doing things like replacing rubber body mounts and hardware or anything of that nature or literally just the frame?

Excited to see the work.

:cheers:

Onur-
Good questions, If you have specific recommendations for things i should ask. please let me know. I know they are doing some body straightening and am guessing some of the body mounting hardware will need to be replaced. I have SpressoFABs 1" BL installed and think everything from that will be reused.

Due to damage from hot exhaust, the rear bumper will need to be re-powder coated. I'm going to have some proper towing chain hooks welded on prior and drill a few other holes I have been holding off on, airbag chuck, airline quick connect, Trailer wiring. Will be super nice to have everything done and brand new PC over it all.

I'm also going to have the shop figure out a better way to mount my front shock reservoirs. Something a little more bomb proof. Does anyone have a good 2.5" mount recommendation? Thinking something billet would be cool. Right now I am using rubber lined hose clamps :rolleyes:
 
Gotcha Jon.

Absolutely tell them to replace all body mounting rubber isolaters, washers and bolts. It's about $500-600 worth of parts with a MUD discount so between $700-900 depending on markup for the insurance folks.

I would not do a frame swap without addressing the mounts for the body.

Good luck sir.

:cheers:
 

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