In my eyes the best possible option by far. If you brought everything over to your truck you would have a left hand drive diesel with lockers. It would be hard for me to pass by that.
Bent front diff
- Thread starter 2oyo2a
- Start date
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In my eyes the best possible option by far. If you brought everything over to your truck you would have a left hand drive diesel with lockers. It would be hard for me to pass by that.
check the clasifieds for mikesta,
he is having some personal issues and is unloading a 93 with locked axles and a bad body for a good price,
here is my thinking, axle would be around 1k to buy and rebuild.
enine = ?? 1k
transfer case with that kind of deformation would be a serious issue, at least 1k for that.
looked it up, https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=1580136#post1580136
Then again I had a rolled 93 this spring and was going to pull the body off of my 92 and use it. I chickened out due to the wiring, and lack of my time. I would seriously consider this as mikesta is kirkland (just outside of seattle) and is a good guy, not a bad poker player either.
Dave
he is having some personal issues and is unloading a 93 with locked axles and a bad body for a good price,
here is my thinking, axle would be around 1k to buy and rebuild.
enine = ?? 1k
transfer case with that kind of deformation would be a serious issue, at least 1k for that.
looked it up, https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=1580136#post1580136
Then again I had a rolled 93 this spring and was going to pull the body off of my 92 and use it. I chickened out due to the wiring, and lack of my time. I would seriously consider this as mikesta is kirkland (just outside of seattle) and is a good guy, not a bad poker player either.
Dave
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nix99 is the place I was thinking of in my previous post.
Nix has everything you could ever want, however they charge slightly more than fair pricing in my opinion.
Dave
Dave
semlin
curmudgeon
a 93+ 80 series body is slightly wider and shorter than a 90-92 iirc. i don't know if they swap over. check with cruiserdan before you try and merge them.
the diesel option is far and away the best if you have the dough. you would possibly have a us legal diesel 80 series, the rarest of the rare and probably worth north of $15kus.
the diesel option is far and away the best if you have the dough. you would possibly have a us legal diesel 80 series, the rarest of the rare and probably worth north of $15kus.
The "body" dimensions are the same. The 93-up flares are wider.
- Thread starter
- #88
I’ve been listening very carefully to what you guys are saying. As a group you’ve given me a solid opinion that fixing my vehicle is not the most rewarding choice to make. Who better to get advice from then you guys? I’d like to find myself behind the wheel of a Land Cruiser instead of behind the manual - pouring over every diagram. At this stage . . . . . Parting out my vehicle is starting to make as much sense to me as it does to you. I feel more apprehensive to part it out then to repair it though. It sounds overwhelming - not taking parts off, but shipping them, and finding buyers.
semlin
curmudgeon
you are making the right call, as painful as it may be.
more bad news for you i'm afraid. i don't think it is worth parting it piece by piece from where you are. all your customers are down south, shipping is too much from canada and a 92 is not worth that much to start with. honestly, i would ask shelden at g&s what he would give for all of it (he is in abbotsford and might even come get it) and also ask the cruiser wrecker in vernon but make sure he thinks you have another option.
as i said, pm me if you want help importing another cruiser.
more bad news for you i'm afraid. i don't think it is worth parting it piece by piece from where you are. all your customers are down south, shipping is too much from canada and a 92 is not worth that much to start with. honestly, i would ask shelden at g&s what he would give for all of it (he is in abbotsford and might even come get it) and also ask the cruiser wrecker in vernon but make sure he thinks you have another option.
as i said, pm me if you want help importing another cruiser.
- Thread starter
- #90
In order to be completely satisfied about my decision to part out my vehicle, I want to disassemble the front end. Both ends turn smoothly when I rotate the u-joint that is attached to the transfer case. . . . . . In comment #69 Romer said there is an entire front end re-build thread. . . . . . You know how a guy goes to the fridge looking for milk, he's staring right at it and says, "I can't find the milk"? . . . . . That's like me with that front end re-build thread. I can't find it. Would someone please help me get it? Thanx - 2oyo2a
Its contained in the sticky thread at the top, FAQ for 80/LX450 in chapter 4 Maintenance there is a link
Here is a link to that thread directly
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78276
Here is a link to that thread directly
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78276
semlin
curmudgeon
the knuckle rebuild described in that thread is part of the story.
my shopping list
check frame to see how tweaked
check the t-case for play and drain it and see what comes out.
rebuild the new knuckle/axle as per romer's link - definitely replace the knuckle bearings and wheel bearings after that mess
try to get an axle with a third member, otherwise rebuild
try to get an axle with complete knuckle housings out to the hub,
otherwise inspect the knuckle housings and spindles etc... for damage
pull the drive shaft and have it straightened and consider new u-joints
replace the 2 lower control arms (frame alignment will be key)
inspect and likely replace drag and tie rods (slee sells nice aftermarket ones)
replace tie and drag rod ends (slee sells these too)
inspect the panhard and the damper
consider replacing the rotors and pads
my shopping list
check frame to see how tweaked
check the t-case for play and drain it and see what comes out.
rebuild the new knuckle/axle as per romer's link - definitely replace the knuckle bearings and wheel bearings after that mess
try to get an axle with a third member, otherwise rebuild
try to get an axle with complete knuckle housings out to the hub,
otherwise inspect the knuckle housings and spindles etc... for damage
pull the drive shaft and have it straightened and consider new u-joints
replace the 2 lower control arms (frame alignment will be key)
inspect and likely replace drag and tie rods (slee sells nice aftermarket ones)
replace tie and drag rod ends (slee sells these too)
inspect the panhard and the damper
consider replacing the rotors and pads
The vast unknowns of this project are what will kill it and an example is Semlin's TC recommendation - "check it for play, drain and see what comes out". This check will come out fine even if there's severe damage in there. The damage happened when the truck hit. Let's say it cracked some teeth and bent a shaft slightly. The truck did not get driven after that, so he drains it and the broken teeth are still up there in the gear set. He won't find out it's trashed until he puts the truck in working order and starts driving it. Or perhaps some internal bushings were crushed from the huge longitudinal force. These will also not come to light until the truck's repaired and being driven, at which time a whine will start and rapidly get worse as the bushing wipes out. Crunch - that'll be $800 while the truck's off the road for 2 weeks.
Multiply that by each component from the power steering box to the tranny, and even to the rear differential. There's stuff wrong that could only be detected one of two ways - a costly teardown of each component by a pro who can use a micrometer to see what's bent/crushed, or start driving it. The bummer with the driving scenario is that a large investment in making it operable may be dwarfed by subsequent investments in each large drivetrain component as its hidden damage causes a failure. Then you've got it off the road again while you have someone repair it, etc. Each time. Plus, how confident are you going to be in a vehicle that was built for expedition type traveling that now is having huge failures every 90 days? For the money and reliability, you would be better off driving a clean used Ford Explorer as much as it pains me to say that.
Multiply that by each component from the power steering box to the tranny, and even to the rear differential. There's stuff wrong that could only be detected one of two ways - a costly teardown of each component by a pro who can use a micrometer to see what's bent/crushed, or start driving it. The bummer with the driving scenario is that a large investment in making it operable may be dwarfed by subsequent investments in each large drivetrain component as its hidden damage causes a failure. Then you've got it off the road again while you have someone repair it, etc. Each time. Plus, how confident are you going to be in a vehicle that was built for expedition type traveling that now is having huge failures every 90 days? For the money and reliability, you would be better off driving a clean used Ford Explorer as much as it pains me to say that.
I have a '95 with the same kind of hit. The TC was fine but it broke the bellhousing on the a343, It took out the oil pan and the trailing arm is an S-shape. The body twisted just enough to show the doors would not line up. I would also use that Cruiser to help keep other Cruisers on the road.
- Thread starter
- #95
Easy Doug . . . . I’m not keeping it . . . . The front end is a write-off. I just want to take it apart since it’s highly unlikely that I will have to put it together again. In addition, I’ll find it reassuring when my eyes see what my mind knows. Then when I part it out I wont have any nagging second guesses.
Thanx Romer for the thread - it’s PERFECT! - Lots of pictures.
Thanx Romer for the thread - it’s PERFECT! - Lots of pictures.
- Thread starter
- #96
I'm at # 9 on Romer's front axle re-build (disassembly) thread, and the inner birfield wont come free. I tapped the end with a small hammer, and still nothing. Any suggestions? . . . . . Is there something I'm not doing right? Thanks
Is it stuck from the get go or does it move at all? wondering whether the axle is bent and binding or the birf in the knuckle.
Thinking a Big Hammer and then a sawzill (like said above) since you won't be putting it back together.
Save the other birf for a spare or sell it.
Thinking a Big Hammer and then a sawzill (like said above) since you won't be putting it back together.
Save the other birf for a spare or sell it.
At post #9 in that thread, you would be removing a complete assembly, inner axle + birfield joint + stub axle (see diagram in post #10.) Have you removed the outer knuckle housing? If not, then be sure you line up the flat portion of the birfield cup with the corresponding flat section on the housing.
If you cannot remove the axle assembly then the axle is binding inside the housing or something is binding that assembly. It is OK to pull hard if you need to. You can't hurt anything. You will want to pull directly out of the axle.
-B-
If you cannot remove the axle assembly then the axle is binding inside the housing or something is binding that assembly. It is OK to pull hard if you need to. You can't hurt anything. You will want to pull directly out of the axle.
-B-
