Bent Flex Plate (1 Viewer)
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Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
The flex plate is bent? Even if it was I would not have thought it was heavy enough to upset the engine balance?
Anyway to your question, IMO unless you have pulled a heavy gearbox out of a car before and then add the weight of the transfer box it is not a typical DIY job.
regards
Dave
Anyway to your question, IMO unless you have pulled a heavy gearbox out of a car before and then add the weight of the transfer box it is not a typical DIY job.
regards
Dave
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- #3
Thanks, Dave. Is it safe to drive it until I have it fixed? As for experience, the only thing I've done, replaced a clutch plate on a 2000 VW GTI.
Bending a flex plate is not somthing that just happens. You would need to bang it while the engine or transmission is out. Are you sure it is bent, or is it just something that the PO told you. He may be pissing down your back and telling you it is raining.
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- #5
The PO said, a friend of his bent the flex plate after trying to tighten the crank bolt pulley. Instead of using the 14mm trick, he jammed a breaker bar in there. So to cut his loss, he got rid of it, plus, it has over 250K miles on it. I did see the bented hole where the breaker bar was. Anyways, I am looking for a trusted mechanic to do it, seeing you'd have to remove the tranny. Do you know of anyone around the Sacramento area? How much would replacing a flex plate will cost? Thanks for your input.
You will need to pull either the engine or the transmission and transfer case to replace the flex plate. a new one wholesales for ~225 bucks.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
How bad does it vibrate? RUN IT - YOLO
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
If the plate is that bent then it is possible that it may have fractured (or be about to) around the bolt holes, if the rest of the car is good then yes pull the engine or transmission and fit a new plate. Also how does it sound when cranked? Does the starter jam or sound like it is fouling the ring gear? I am still having trouble getting my head around the vibration though?
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
Try to reverse bend it and run it or just run it .
If you replace it then replace the rear main seal while you're at it.
I'd be taking a hard look at the harmonic balancer first, anybody that would use a pry bar instead of a socket would also use a strap wrench on the balancer pulley to try and keep the motor from turning and possibly damaged the rubber mounting. The fix may be as simple as a new balancer. If the starter doesn't grind, drag, or pulse abnormally then I'd look elsewhere. Or, you could pop off the inspection cover, get a flashlight, and check the flywheel for yourself. Take about two minutes and sombody else to turn the motor by hand. A smart guy with a smart phone could probably figure out a way to do it all by himself, but all that smart tech is beyond me.
I always check things myself- been told too many wrong things, both intentionally and unintentionally, along the way to not make sure myself. Especially before spending money!
Hope this helps.
EDIT- whups, missed that you saw the bent hole in the flywheel, I guess the question then is how bad is it really? How far out is it, and does it matter all that much? Can you bend it back close enough to straight to get a few more years out of it or is it really shot? And is that the only problem? If the rest of the truck is good I'd say run it as is and watch for a good used motor to come along or just save up the pennies for a good rebuild job. 250k on a rust free truck is peanuts, it's barely broken in at that point. Just my two cents.
I always check things myself- been told too many wrong things, both intentionally and unintentionally, along the way to not make sure myself. Especially before spending money!
Hope this helps.
EDIT- whups, missed that you saw the bent hole in the flywheel, I guess the question then is how bad is it really? How far out is it, and does it matter all that much? Can you bend it back close enough to straight to get a few more years out of it or is it really shot? And is that the only problem? If the rest of the truck is good I'd say run it as is and watch for a good used motor to come along or just save up the pennies for a good rebuild job. 250k on a rust free truck is peanuts, it's barely broken in at that point. Just my two cents.
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- #14
'barely broken in' is true for this LC. Everything is original, pretty much. The only other issue which I think helped the PO get rid of it is a failed smog due to EGR not working. I've done some reading on how to fix it here on IH8MUD but haven't had the time to do it. Guess I was worried too much about the bent flex plate but now I think, I'll just drive it as some of you have advised.
Georg @ Valley Hybrid, depending on your definition of near.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Wait, my 92 vibrates. I thought this was normal! 
George at Valley Hybrids is as good as they come.
George at Valley Hybrids is as good as they come.
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- #17
I'll call George at Valley Hybrids. Thanks, guys.
Drop the "e"
Wasn't a typo. You will be in good hands.- Thread starter
- #19
Drop the "e"
Appreciate the help, retrofive. Thanks
Considering the torque converter is bolted to the flex plate and all it's mass, I'd be surprised if a bent hole is your problem.
Why was he and his friend mucking around with the crank bolt?
Why was he and his friend mucking around with the crank bolt?
