Builds Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build (26 Viewers)

[BenCC]

I have been calibrating all 12 printers. Last night the breaker triggered while 4-5 printers were heating up the print beds simultaneously. Heating up would consume about 250W each printer. If a print bed already reached its target temp, the power consumed would be only 30-70W. The breaker to my printer room triggers at 15amp, which only allows 120Vx15amp=1.8KW. With computer and lights etc. taking into account, it seems I need to be carful about the peak power consumption. Is there a way I can increase the power capacity of a single room? I am not an electrician but I think I cannot just replace the 15amp breaker switch with a 25amp?

 

[awesomeissquid]

I have been calibrating all 12 printers. Last night the breaker triggered while 4-5 printers were heating up the print beds simultaneously. Heating up would consume about 250W each printer. If a print bed already reached its target temp, the power consumed would be only 30-70W. The breaker to my printer room triggers at 15amp, which only allows 120Vx15amp=1.8KW. With computer and lights etc. taking into account, it seems I need to be carful about the peak power consumption. Is there a way I can increase the power capacity of a single room? I am not an electrician but I think I cannot just replace the 15amp breaker switch with a 25amp?

Your thinking is correct. The breaker is sized to protect the wiring within the walls. To increase the breaker size on that line might require new wiring, but the existing wire size would need to be verified. It is possible it is sized appropriately for a 20 or 30 amp service, but don’t just change the breaker without investigating because it could cause a fire.

Best case scenario would be that the main breaker has spare capacity for additional breakers to be added. Then you could have a new line run to the room to provide an additional circuit of power to a number of the outlets.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Okay other crazy idea you could consider would be getting a big enough capacitor to handle the peak load so the devices draw from that before pulling from the line. This option would need a bit of engineering to get it to work and be safe.

 

[Trolling4Tuna]

Hey folks, I'm new to the forum, spent the last week reading through this whole thread. Amazing stuff, @BenCC !

One thing I haven't yet seen a solution to... replacing the in-dash ashtray / 12v ports with something that keeps the ports but swaps the ashtray for a larger open storage cubby. I know somebody proposed just felt lining the socket but that leaves a good bit of wasted space in front and on sides. I'm personally not in need of switches or mounts like some of you guys, just more storage options for my 07 LX470. Anybody else interested in this? Or is there something out there I missed?

 

[Trolling4Tuna]

"Ben, I was thinking about the ash tray in front. I know if I pull the tray out my iPhone 11 (pro) will fit. I was wondering if you could fab up a shelf that could have a built in Qi charger. A person could then enter, slide the phone in and it would charge (and if you had wireless CarPlay or whatever the android version is) you’d be coed free and the phone would be out of the way.“ @CBdeJ

I should have ref'd this suggestion from the project list. Any more thoughts on this one?

 

[BenCC]

Hey folks, I'm new to the forum, spent the last week reading through this whole thread. Amazing stuff, @BenCC !

One thing I haven't yet seen a solution to... replacing the in-dash ashtray / 12v ports with something that keeps the ports but swaps the ashtray for a larger open storage cubby. I know somebody proposed just felt lining the socket but that leaves a good bit of wasted space in front and on sides. I'm personally not in need of switches or mounts like some of you guys, just more storage options for my 07 LX470. Anybody else interested in this? Or is there something out there I missed?

View attachment 3200157

This is the project I wanted to do. My new year resolution is that I can complete this one in 2023 lol.

 

[BenCC]

Merry Christmas and happy holidays you all. Keep warm and be safe.

 

[yosh2000]

I have been calibrating all 12 printers. Last night the breaker triggered while 4-5 printers were heating up the print beds simultaneously. Heating up would consume about 250W each printer. If a print bed already reached its target temp, the power consumed would be only 30-70W. The breaker to my printer room triggers at 15amp, which only allows 120Vx15amp=1.8KW. With computer and lights etc. taking into account, it seems I need to be carful about the peak power consumption. Is there a way I can increase the power capacity of a single room? I am not an electrician but I think I cannot just replace the 15amp breaker switch with a 25amp?

Breakers are there to protect the wire. You cannot just upgrade a breaker, without upgrading/confirming the wire size is correct for that upgraded breaker size. Not worth starting an in wall fire!

Dig what you do here. I built a couple voron printers and am looking to start printing stuff for my LC100. Got some larger 0.6 and 0.8 nozzles to start printing fog pockets for it!

 

[Bomar]

@BenCC could Make 2 V1: Single Rocker Switch Mount for Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series

Be adjusted to fit Gentex Homelink for UTVs

Gentex GENHLBP1

HomeLink universal garage door opener

www.crutchfield.com

In the instructions it states 21MM by 37MM for the switch.

I think there is enough room behind it as well.

Congrats on the move and new job!

 

[BenCC]

@BenCC could Make 2 V1: Single Rocker Switch Mount for Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series

Be adjusted to fit Gentex Homelink for UTVs

Gentex GENHLBP1

HomeLink universal garage door opener

www.crutchfield.com

In the instructions it states 21MM by 37MM for the switch.

I think there is enough room behind it as well.

Congrats on the move and new job!

I looked at the user's manual. The size of 21 mm x 37 mm is the standard automobile rocker switch cutout size. M2V1's cutout is 21.5 mm x 37.5 mm which is OK for this switch.
The switch body (the face) is 2 in. x 1 in. per the manual. M2V1 can hold it.
My concern is the depth. This switch is 3 inches long.

 

[BenCC]

Breakers are there to protect the wire. You cannot just upgrade a breaker, without upgrading/confirming the wire size is correct for that upgraded breaker size. Not worth starting an in wall fire!

Dig what you do here. I built a couple voron printers and am looking to start printing stuff for my LC100. Got some larger 0.6 and 0.8 nozzles to start printing fog pockets for it!

For the foglight mount, I use a 0.8 mm volcano nozzle (E3D Nozzle X).

 

[suprarx7nut]

I have been calibrating all 12 printers. Last night the breaker triggered while 4-5 printers were heating up the print beds simultaneously. Heating up would consume about 250W each printer. If a print bed already reached its target temp, the power consumed would be only 30-70W. The breaker to my printer room triggers at 15amp, which only allows 120Vx15amp=1.8KW. With computer and lights etc. taking into account, it seems I need to be carful about the peak power consumption. Is there a way I can increase the power capacity of a single room? I am not an electrician but I think I cannot just replace the 15amp breaker switch with a 25amp?

I've done a bunch of home wiring upgrades and now some commercial stuff so I'm partially qualified to give an ignorant answer here, haha.

Short answer: You need to run more wire - or preferably you need an electrician to run more wire. Changing the breaker alone is likely a violation of electrical building codes and may land you in legal trouble if anything were to happen.

Adding circuits can be very easy if you have a panel nearby. It can be much more difficult if the panel is hard to reach.

 

[BenCC]

I've done a bunch of home wiring upgrades and now some commercial stuff so I'm partially qualified to give an ignorant answer here, haha.

Short answer: You need to run more wire - or preferably you need an electrician to run more wire. Changing the breaker alone is likely a violation of electrical building codes and may land you in legal trouble if anything were to happen.

Adding circuits can be very easy if you have a panel nearby. It can be much more difficult if the panel is hard to reach.

My electrician ran a separate group of wires to the printer room. Now I have 120V X 35A = 4.2KW in the room. This is good for all printers plus the filament dryer (1700 W). Thanks guys.

 

[yosh2000]

For the foglight mount, I use a 0.8 mm volcano nozzle (E3D Nozzle X).

Sweet, thanks! i'll be running a sherpa micro extruder, NF crazy HF copper w/ a 0.8 CHT nozzle...or at least thats the plan. Hopefully get 20-25 flowrate. havent done anything over a 0.4 nozzle, so there will be a little learning curve i'm sure. printing w/ polymaker ASA.

i'll take any other suggestions or files (long shot i know!!) youre willing to send along!! strictly personal use!

 

[BenCC]

Sweet, thanks! i'll be running a sherpa micro extruder, NF crazy HF copper w/ a 0.8 CHT nozzle...or at least thats the plan. Hopefully get 20-25 flowrate. havent done anything over a 0.4 nozzle, so there will be a little learning curve i'm sure. printing w/ polymaker ASA.

i'll take any other suggestions or files (long shot i know!!) youre willing to send along!! strictly personal use!

NF crazy HF copper hotend tends to have heat creep. Be careful with the cooling setup or consider the original Mosquito.

Once you have your motion platform, extruder, hotend, and nozzle settled, you will need tons of calibration (temp, flow, linear advance, part cooling, speed, etc.) to get a print profile.

For now, I don’t share most of my CAD. I do share M24, M50 files that I print and send for free.

 

[yosh2000]

Going to run a dirtybird setup on my Trident 300. 30mm GDStime fan to start, to Aussies seem to have good luck w that setup. I'll go w a delta 30mm if I start to have issues, good looking out. First major mod for me after building a pretty much BOM voron, so we'll see how it goes. Thanks for tips!

 

[jackhossross]

Make 6: Change Pocket Mount

6.1 Overview of the Final Product

View attachment 2166758

View attachment 2131283

The following prototype is printed with resin.
View attachment 2132631

View attachment 2133075

6.2 Introduction

The change pocket mount is modeled based on one of the requests. Variable mounting schemes have been developed.

Available versions:

V1: Mounts one rocker switch.
V2: Mounts one Blue Sea Dual USB Port.
V3: Mounts one rocker switch and one square single USB extension port.
V4: Mounts one rocker switch and one square dual USB extension port.
V5: Mounts one square dual USB extension port.
V6: Mounts one RAM diamond ball base.

Note: V2 can also mount a rocker switch.

6.3 Design and Fabrication

View attachment 2133141

6.4 Purchase List to Complete the Installation

Square Single USB Extension Port

Square Dual USB Extension Port

Blue Sea Dual USB Port

6.5 Purchase Link

PM for Direct Paypal Payment

Price:
$30 + $8.3 (USPS Priority) for ABS printed (V6 is $40 + $8.3).
Resin printed version is not available.

Hey Ben - any chance at getting a V4?

Thanks,

Jack

 

[BenCC]

Hey Ben - any chance at getting a V4?

Thanks,

Jack

Yes please PM your email address. I will send the invoice.

 

[98hundy]

Make 19 V2: Fog Light Mount (Baja Designs Squadron)

This has not been released. The mounts hold a pair of Baja Designs Squadron lights. There is no adjustment mechanism.

View attachment 3198934

$150/pair (All fasteners included)
Shipping $12.1 (USPS Priority)
PM or email Ben3DBuild@gmail.com.

Any plans on making inserts for Diode dynamic fogs?

 

[BenCC]

Any plans on making inserts for Diode dynamic fogs?

If you can send at least one Diode Dynamic fog light to me just for the CAD modeling